The best way you're going to understand this stuff is to figure a bit out on your own. If you can't do that, you’re wasting everyones time. Now - That being said, let me see if I can help a bit here with some data you're going to need in your quest.I know this is a question that comes up several times. I had a 636 and the power commander came pre-programed and they did a great job. I never had a single pop when I would slow down and I could tell a difference in throttle response and HP. I purchased a left over 08 zx10 for 7,800. Which I thought was a super price and I had to jump on it. I bought a slip on two brothers that eliminates the cat. i put in a K&N air filter and bought the pc III. However, the map that they put in is horrible. It pops even more then it did before I put it in. (I ran the bike for two weeks on just the two brothers slip on). So I obviously need to re-map it. I know that the best way is to throw it on a dyno. However, I don't have the money right now to do that. So in the mean time can someone please share a map with me if they have a similar set up. And when I say share the map could you please explain it to me like this is the first time I am hooking up my comp to my bike and tell me exactly what I need to do. (because it is the first time). I'll repeat my mods once again...PCIII, K&N airfilter, two brothers slip that eliminates the cat. Also the temp here is between 80-95 and very humid. Thank you
1: No two bikes are the same. I don’t care if they have the exact same mods and they were blessed by the same monk. There is a problem called sensor drift (aka Manufacturing tolerance). Ever noticed in service manuals that there is a "range" of readings that is OK for a certain sensor to be within before they tell you to replace it? Sometimes this is a 5% to 20% variation in what is "OK". We have Throttle Position, Cam position, Crank position, Air intake temp, Fuel pressure, Manifold absolute pressure, Water temp, O2 (on some), etc, etc. Can you imagine the variations in two identical bikes now? So the best is checking on a dyno and NOT copying off a buddy (unless you steal all of his sensors too).
2: There is an issue with off-throttle popping in all 4 strokes. If you don't richen up the fuel during off-throttle, you will lean pop all over the place. Carburetor bikes accomplished this with an “Enrichening” circuit that opened a fuel jet/port when the throttle was closed - it only worked during high manifold vacuum conditions (engine braking) so as not to have any influence at idle or low load. You can completely remove fuel (shut down injectors) during this time and get the same results, but you don't get the added benefit of the cooling effects of raw fuel evaporating within the combustion chambers (the EPA hates this “Fuel as coolant” shit).
(3) You have a power commander. You have the ability to re-map the entire zero-throttle area of the maps. Which means if you want to throw more fuel at the popping problem, increase the fuel by 10 or 15% at let's say from 3k rpm to 11k rpm but only in the zero to 2% throttle opening areas.
If you don't know how to do this, spend some time with the manual and software and it will become quite clear.