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what's going on guys need some help il stumped.... so I went down before last season ended... since then my throttle has been wacky. I don't see any actual damage to the trottle body itself just to start.

anyways so since the fall the bike from the second I turn it on the idle starts to go high. at first it's like the cold start idle. but once it starts to hit temp the throttle starts to go high almost wot. the only way to stop it is to roll the throttle forward until either it boggs out or I let off and it goes back to wot.


first thing I was told was lube the cables.... done. next check the idle adjuster.... its good.. next change the cables.... I'm going to do it but I don't see any binds/pinches/or bends in the line. also I've check the throttle body where the boots r to make sure there's nothing blocking the flaps. also the throttle does snap closed when the bike is off


so yes lots of information... before I waste my time changing cables does anyone have any ideas that doesn't pertain to the cables? or could it be that simple...... also what would be the worst case scenario in my situation?
 

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I might be saying something very obvious here but hey, sometimes it's easy to overlook simple stuff: did you go down on the right side? Did the right clip on hit the road at all? If so, does the clip on appear bent at all? If you roll on the throttle and release by letting go of it, does it roll back to the fully closed position by itself?
 

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first thing I was told was lube the cables.... done. next check the idle adjuster.... its good.. next change the cables.... I'm going to do it but I don't see any binds/pinches/or bends in the line. also I've check the throttle body where the boots r to make sure there's nothing blocking the flaps. also the throttle does snap closed when the bike is off
I'm curious how exactly you checked this. The cables connect and control the main throttle plates. If you're looking down at them from above, they should be visually blocked by the subthrottle plates. Those are computer controlled with no direct connection to the throttle tube. If these are driving open on their own, it could cause this. Since the bike has been down, any sudden and sharp impact felt by the subthrottle sensor could damage it.

I would suggest that you remove the airbox completely. Try running the bike while observing how the subthrottle responds and what they are doing when the motor revs up. They should only be cracked open slightly at idle.
 
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I might be saying something very obvious here but hey, sometimes it's easy to overlook simple stuff: did you go down on the right side? Did the right clip on hit the road at all? If so, does the clip on appear bent at all? If you roll on the throttle and release by letting go of it, does it roll back to the fully closed position by itself?



nah I went down on the on the left on the break side.... where the throttle cable meets the body
 

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I'm curious how exactly you checked this. The cables connect and control the main throttle plates. If you're looking down at them from above, they should be visually blocked by the subthrottle plates. Those are computer controlled with no direct connection to the throttle tube. If these are driving open on their own, it could cause this. Since the bike has been down, any sudden and sharp impact felt by the subthrottle sensor could damage it.

I would suggest that you remove the airbox completely. Try running the bike while observing how the subthrottle responds and what they are doing when the motor revs up. They should only be cracked open slightly at idle.
well I didn't pull the air body complete I pulled the tank pulled the box cover to expose the subs and I did run it like that bu it proceeded to do the same... it starts to go wot bu then I'll roll the throttle closed and when I let go it slowly goes back to wot
 

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Most likely to be a breather pipe or your idle adjustment.

1.5rpm on idle once the bike is warmed.
Give her a few revs then re adjust to 1.5rpm on idle.

Check your throttle should slap back like a daisy. If not its catching you probably over extended the throttle cable when you came of the bike. Happens to the best of us.

Check the internal housing on the throttle side as well as the bottom on the left side of the bike.

Check you bleader pipes on the air box and fuel injection area if thats intact then you should be good to go.
 

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I'm curious how exactly you checked this. The cables connect and control the main throttle plates. If you're looking down at them from above, they should be visually blocked by the subthrottle plates. Those are computer controlled with no direct connection to the throttle tube. If these are driving open on their own, it could cause this. Since the bike has been down, any sudden and sharp impact felt by the subthrottle sensor could damage it.

I would suggest that you remove the airbox completely. Try running the bike while observing how the subthrottle responds and what they are doing when the motor revs up. They should only be cracked open slightly at idle.
so I've changed the cables today. It didn't change.... i looked at the flaps that u said to check..... so when I start the subs(outter flaps) open then stutter and stay open and the primary flaps(inner flaps) are almost closed as I have it set with the idle adjuster.... so what I noticed was when it ramps up to almost WOT, where the cables attache to the throttle assembly doesn't even move meaning the primary flaps aren't even opening passed where I'm set.....



that berecline? I'm kinda swaying towards the tps sensor.... now I know what the tps sensor does. and I know there are 2. is it possible that the primary is working and the sub is fucked and causing the bike to actually try to idle at redline?
 

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that berecline? I'm kinda swaying towards the tps sensor.... now I know what the tps sensor does. and I know there are 2. is it possible that the primary is working and the sub is fucked and causing the bike to actually try to idle at redline?
Hey. Yes, that is exactly what I was thinking based on my first post.

It could very well be the TPS that is damaged. That would be telling the ECU to then respond by opening the secondaries. It indicates the throttlebody was damaged in the impact. The primaries are controlled by the throttle grip exclusively. The secondaries are controlled directly by the ECU. The secondaries should respond to the self-test when the ECU puts power on that drive motor. It opens them up to get a known position and then closes them. The flutter is normal for that.

There's not too many options to you in either case though. The TPS is set at the factory when it's assembled. Readjusting it will be for the setting the offset for the full range of motion on it, not for fixing a misread like this would be. Some people have had decent luck readjusting it or swapping it out and readjusting from there. But that is not something that is straightforward. It's also not a separate component sold separately. Kawi and a dealership would only swap out the entire TB assembly as a complete unit. Depending on your wallet and your skills, the fasted thing to do is find a used throttlebody assembly and swap to that as opposed to trying to find a TPS and then adjusting it to your TB.
 
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Hey. Yes, that is exactly what I was thinking based on my first post.

It could very well be the TPS that is damaged. That would be telling the ECU to then respond by opening the secondaries. It indicates the throttlebody was damaged in the impact. The primaries are controlled by the throttle grip exclusively. The secondaries are controlled directly by the ECU. The secondaries should respond to the self-test when the ECU puts power on that drive motor. It opens them up to get a known position and then closes them. The flutter is normal for that.

There's not too many options to you in either case though. The TPS is set at the factory when it's assembled. Readjusting it will be for the setting the offset for the full range of motion on it, not for fixing a misread like this would be. Some people have had decent luck readjusting it or swapping it out and readjusting from there. But that is not something that is straightforward. It's also not a separate component sold separately. Kawi and a dealership would only swap out the entire TB assembly as a complete unit. Depending on your wallet and your skills, the fasted thing to do is find a used throttlebody assembly and swap to that as opposed to trying to find a TPS and then adjusting it to your TB.
got it well I just ordered the pair of tps ima try just swapping it out and see if I gotta take it to my tuner or edit my flash.... I'll post when I put it on n let u know what happened
 

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Hey. Yes, that is exactly what I was thinking based on my first post.

It could very well be the TPS that is damaged. That would be telling the ECU to then respond by opening the secondaries. It indicates the throttlebody was damaged in the impact. The primaries are controlled by the throttle grip exclusively. The secondaries are controlled directly by the ECU. The secondaries should respond to the self-test when the ECU puts power on that drive motor. It opens them up to get a known position and then closes them. The flutter is normal for that.

There's not too many options to you in either case though. The TPS is set at the factory when it's assembled. Readjusting it will be for the setting the offset for the full range of motion on it, not for fixing a misread like this would be. Some people have had decent luck readjusting it or swapping it out and readjusting from there. But that is not something that is straightforward. It's also not a separate component sold separately. Kawi and a dealership would only swap out the entire TB assembly as a complete unit. Depending on your wallet and your skills, the fasted thing to do is find a used throttlebody assembly and swap to that as opposed to trying to find a TPS and then adjusting it to your TB.
I've been a member of the forum for a while. Often times I like to read threads about issues that I'm not experiencing to gain more knowledge or maybe give insight if I have anything to say on the topic at hand.

One thing I know for sure: you gotta love the knowledge and passion skydork puts into his posts. He has helped me and many other zx10r enjoyers throught the years and there's nothing else but gratitude that can be expressed for the effort he puts into helping his brethen.

I might have had one too many drinks tonight but here's another one: to skydork's prosperity and luck for years to come! Thanks for the help so far! Bottoms up! ;)
 

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I've been a member of the forum for a while. Often times I like to read threads about issues that I'm not experiencing to gain more knowledge or maybe give insight if I have anything to say on the topic at hand.

One thing I know for sure: you gotta love the knowledge and passion skydork puts into his posts. He has helped me and many other zx10r enjoyers throught the years and there's nothing else but gratitude that can be expressed for the effort he puts into helping his brethen.

I might have had one too many drinks tonight but here's another one: to skydork's prosperity and luck for years to come! Thanks for the help so far! Bottoms up! ;)

I'll second that 👍 there are a few people who keep this forum alive and Skydork is right up there on the number one spot 👏 😎
 

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I've been a member of the forum for a while. Often times I like to read threads about issues that I'm not experiencing to gain more knowledge or maybe give insight if I have anything to say on the topic at hand.

One thing I know for sure: you gotta love the knowledge and passion skydork puts into his posts. He has helped me and many other zx10r enjoyers throught the years and there's nothing else but gratitude that can be expressed for the effort he puts into helping his brethen.

I might have had one too many drinks tonight but here's another one: to skydork's prosperity and luck for years to come! Thanks for the help so far! Bottoms up! ;)
I'll second that 👍 there are a few people who keep this forum alive and Skydork is right up there on the number one spot 👏 😎
Gents -

If you PM me, I'll send you my PayPal address to send a donation. ;)

I kid! Don't do that! If you haven't figured me out yet, sarcasm is my second favorite word that ends in '-asm'. :p But thanks for the compliments! I'm glad I'm here on this site and able to provide some insight into different topics. It also makes it more entertaining if I can try to mix in a little humor along with the info. There's lots of knowledgeable people on here and I wish they were able to be on this site more often than I am. It's a group effort!
 

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got it well I just ordered the pair of tps ima try just swapping it out and see if I gotta take it to my tuner or edit my flash.... I'll post when I put it on n let u know what happened


ok sky I changed both the sensors it was still the same.. the fi light isn't saying 32 or anything at all... and a buddy of mine has the same year and stock as well so I pulled his throttle assembly and threw it on mine.... still the same man im getting tight u have any other ideas....... would anything with the fuel system cause it....
 

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Gents -

If you PM me, I'll send you my PayPal address to send a donation. ;)

I kid! Don't do that! If you haven't figured me out yet, sarcasm is my second favorite word that ends in '-asm'. :p But thanks for the compliments! I'm glad I'm here on this site and able to provide some insight into different topics. It also makes it more entertaining if I can try to mix in a little humor along with the info. There's lots of knowledgeable people on here and I wish they were able to be on this site more often than I am. It's a group effort!


ok sky I know we were on pm but I want everyone to see this so that they know the most miniscule thing might cause my life threatening situation if I was riding and this happened......


so I bought the throttle assembly and I just had to plat what's the difference. so the issue that I had was the roller on the actuator side of the throttle is bent and stuck open.


just so everyone knows what this roller does cus I didn't. what it does is makes the 2 sets of flaps and the 2 tps work in unison... so basically even though my hand control was closed the ecu was reading that the sub throttle was wide open.


now I know I'm not a motorcycle mechanic lmao I am a car guy this was a new one for me... bit thank you everyone for your input and help I hope the knowledge that I've gained through this issue enlightens ya.....

sky if u have any other input about the mechanics of the actuator set up throw it in
 

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so I bought the throttle assembly and I just had to plat what's the difference. so the issue that I had was the roller on the actuator side of the throttle is bent and stuck open.
OK, well glad you found the issue. It sounds like it is the TPS. Not in the conventional sense though. The sensor was fine. It sounds like the mechanical shaft into it was what was jammed up. So the input into the TPS was in error which is what caused the ECU to drive the throttle open through the actuator thinking that's what you were commanding it to do.

Weird, but glad you figured out the root cause.
 
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