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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

I tried a search and came up with nothing, so thought I'd throw this one out there...

My ZX10 turns in too slow and I need to do something about it.

Seems to be one of those things, you ride a bike and get used to it, then you ride it back to back with something else and go, "awe fark, what is wrong with this". I had one of those moments today...

I had a bike washday; cleaned the 10, the cbr race bike and wifies ZZR250. Once all were dried off I took each around the block to dry the rad/test ride/have a play. I started on the ZZR; low, light, turns in fast but really stable. Full lock figure 8 no problem. Then I jumped on the ten, twisted the grip and a grin spread from ear to ear and then I tried to go around the corner I had done on the ZZR just a few moments before. I felt I had to muscle it around, it just wanted to keep going straight. Now, I understand heavier engine components etc, but a low speed, low revs corner on power at 3,000prm should still be easy.

Then for comparison I did the same on the CBR; revier off the line, but with less punch than the 10, and smoothed around the corner with no hassle. The CBR has had the back end jacked up, and has lots of weight removed - but I’d still expect the 07 ZX10 to piss on it in every department, esp cornering.

Honestly it's a slow 90 deg right hand corner which I just zipped round on both other bikes and went, "Awe fark turn you bastard" on the 10.

So what is to be done? I know I need to set up the sags on the 10, but I'm starting to think drop the forks through the triple clamp, raise the rear ride height etc.

Ideas, suggestions and slating all welcome. Would also be good to know what settings other people have. I'm 85Kg if that helps.

Oh and I had just set the tyre pressures 36 front, 41 rear. New Metzler M3s
 

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raise the rear, and drop the frnt,i have an ohlins on mine and the ride hight has been adjusted a few clicks, and dropped the frnt .5, otherwise shes a slow turner...
 

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Well.... cover the basics first, and work your way up. Turning the steering damper down from full stiff has cured more than one buddy's bike of this problem. :)

Dial your sag #'s in before you get too crazy. After you get that settled, then start playing with ride height. Going up in the back is an easy affair: you just have to shim the shock down from the mounting point on the frame. There is roughly 10-15mm of adjustment there (provide your own shims), and you get more ride height than that from the adjustment (I can't remember how many mm at the shock actually equals at the centerline of rear wheel, but it's more than a 1:1 ratio). If that doesn't clear it up, you can take some height out of the front. Once you've found a happy(er) spot, re-check/adjust your sag numbers. I've always felt that sag is a good baseline, but not the Rule for ride height. I'll take a little bit out of the front and add a bit in the back of just about everything I ride.

Now you didn't mention much about damping there, but a bike set up too soft will be a pain to get turned in sharply (IMO, of course... I find when they are too soft in the back that they turn in like crap and run wide to boot... it really depends on how/where you're riding it). If you have the front too high/too stiff I've found it'll fight you a bit if you try to muscle it over.

Tires play a huge roll (no pun intended)... and sometimes it's a matter of preference or one brand agreeing with a bike/set-up more than another. I've never run M3's, so I can't tell you anything there. I've run the PP's and the DQ's, and I can say that it feels -much- better on the PP's.

Hope that helps any :)
 

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hiya

i had mine setup by some pros at racelab, here is what they came up with, this was on a stock bike with me (weigh around 13 stones). It's never gonna be the same though as it will vary on settings between bikes no doubt also how you sit on the bike.

You can see that preload on front was dropped and rear of bike 'raised', giving better turn in and ability to hold tight lines.. their aim was to setup the bike so it was good at everything without losing ability at either end of the spectrum, apparently suspension setup is a game of 'trade offs'. (ie great corner tracking but no traction on rear, or great traction and bad cornering)

Im just going on what they told me as i wouldn't know where to start..so excuse my crappy explanation, but the bike is real nice now over stock.

 

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hiya

i had mine setup by some pros at racelab, here is what they came up with, this was on a stock bike with me (weigh around 13 stones). It's never gonna be the same though as it will vary on settings between bikes no doubt also how you sit on the bike.

You can see that preload on front was dropped and rear of bike 'raised', giving better turn in and ability to hold tight lines.. their aim was to setup the bike so it was good at everything without losing ability at either end of the spectrum, apparently suspension setup is a game of 'trade offs'. (ie great corner tracking but no traction on rear, or great traction and bad cornering)

Im just going on what they told me as i wouldn't know where to start..so excuse my crappy explanation, but the bike is real nice now over stock.

How much do you weight with gear on?...I don't have my stone to pounds converter running right now ..it's at the shop :wink:
 

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How much do you weight with gear on?...I don't have my stone to pounds converter running right now ..it's at the shop :wink:
I rekon at a guess 180-190 lb
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I rekon at a guess 180-190 lb
This is fairly close to the 85Kg I tip the scales at, so should be good.


Thanks to everyone for your help and comments. I understand that suspension settings are a personal thing, but a push in the right direction always helps.

I will start with sags and backing off the steering damper a couple of click and go from there.

As the M3 is a 190/50 not the stock 190/55 I will look at shimming the rear shock if stage 1 doesn't help.

Stage 3 will be to play with the clickers, probably with someone who knows what they're doing.

Thanks again guys
 

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The geometry of the stock 06-10R is very neutral. It has a very short wheelbase for a liter bike. So small changes make a big difference. The lower plastic a very low to the ground so I wouldn't drop the front. Raising the rear is where you can make some improvements. First set up your preload, compression and rebound. I know of folks who have quit racing the 06/07 10R because they could never get the suspension tuned to the way they like. I race my 10R and my suspension setup is pretty good but I am not a top 5 finisher. I had my front suspension rebuilt with softer springs believe it or not. And I have an Ohlins shock on the back. I now have much better feel from the front end. I weigh 195lbs without gear. Turn in is good and I am able to get the traction I need on corner exits.
 
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