Grabby, sticky clutch? Notchy shifting?....Do this:
Here you go guys, work currently in progress, pics coming as I take them:
My clutch doesn't like to disengage(engage, for you sticklers about how a clutch works(when the clutch is engaged, no power is applied to the transmission, when disengaged power is sent to the trans. input shaft)) when I pull the lever to the bar in first gear. It's not a big deal as if I just blip the throttle is disengages, but it's a little bit bothersome. I assumed the friction plates were prolly installed dry at the factory, and upon disassembly I found that I was correct. Here goes:
1. remove lower fairing and disconnect clutch cable from lever and actuator(both ends). *If you leave the bike on the sidestand, there's no need to drain the oil for this. If you choose to do it with the bike on a wheel stand, drain the oil or you'll have a mess on the floor.
2. remove all the bolts(10 of them, 8mm heads) from the clutch cover and pull the cover off. This is what you'll see:
2. Next you need to remove the clutch center hub and springs(already removed in the second pic) using a 5mm allen wrench. Don't worry, the bolts are longer than the springs uncompressed length, so they won't jump out at you. pull the bolts, washers and springs, then pull the center plate like this:
3. After the cover is removed we need to remove all the plates, or clutch stack. Make a mental note or take a pic to show yourself that the first and last steel plates are different than the others and that the top fiber plate is different than the others. Do not reinstall the plates differently than they came out.(This really only applies to the bottom steel, top steel, and top friction plates, the rest are identical and interchangeable.
Here are the steel plates and cover with springs:
Here you can see some of the scoring/heat discoloration on the plates and that some of them were seized together:
Not really a big deal yet, and we'll have her fixed in just a bit.
4. Now that we have the clutch stack removed, we need to seperate the steel and friction plates into 2 piles(best to seperate them but leave them in the same order they came out). Now put the friction plates in a bucket of oil one at a time so they are all submerged and saturated with oil like this:
5. This step is completely up to you, but I'm anal and like things clean. Take the steel plates inside to the kitchen sink(make sure the wife is out of the house) and clean them with warm soapy water and a bit of steel wool or an SOS pad to get the friction plate material/oil/assembly lube off them. You're not trying to sand them dowy, or scuff them up, just clean them. once you go through all the plates dry them completely with a rag or paper towel. They should look something like this:
(Please note the proper bottle of kidney cleaning fluid is in use in the kitchen as well as the garage
You should let the clutch plates sit in the oil for a few hours or overnight.
6. Reassembly is the reverse process, just make sure you put good coat of oil on both sides of every plate(friction and steel) as you reinstall them, and don't forget that the clutch pushrod(black thing in the center of the clutch hub goes in before the clutch hub and hold down springs.
Enjoy.
Here you go guys, work currently in progress, pics coming as I take them:
My clutch doesn't like to disengage(engage, for you sticklers about how a clutch works(when the clutch is engaged, no power is applied to the transmission, when disengaged power is sent to the trans. input shaft)) when I pull the lever to the bar in first gear. It's not a big deal as if I just blip the throttle is disengages, but it's a little bit bothersome. I assumed the friction plates were prolly installed dry at the factory, and upon disassembly I found that I was correct. Here goes:
1. remove lower fairing and disconnect clutch cable from lever and actuator(both ends). *If you leave the bike on the sidestand, there's no need to drain the oil for this. If you choose to do it with the bike on a wheel stand, drain the oil or you'll have a mess on the floor.
2. remove all the bolts(10 of them, 8mm heads) from the clutch cover and pull the cover off. This is what you'll see:
2. Next you need to remove the clutch center hub and springs(already removed in the second pic) using a 5mm allen wrench. Don't worry, the bolts are longer than the springs uncompressed length, so they won't jump out at you. pull the bolts, washers and springs, then pull the center plate like this:
3. After the cover is removed we need to remove all the plates, or clutch stack. Make a mental note or take a pic to show yourself that the first and last steel plates are different than the others and that the top fiber plate is different than the others. Do not reinstall the plates differently than they came out.(This really only applies to the bottom steel, top steel, and top friction plates, the rest are identical and interchangeable.
Here are the steel plates and cover with springs:
Here you can see some of the scoring/heat discoloration on the plates and that some of them were seized together:
Not really a big deal yet, and we'll have her fixed in just a bit.
4. Now that we have the clutch stack removed, we need to seperate the steel and friction plates into 2 piles(best to seperate them but leave them in the same order they came out). Now put the friction plates in a bucket of oil one at a time so they are all submerged and saturated with oil like this:
5. This step is completely up to you, but I'm anal and like things clean. Take the steel plates inside to the kitchen sink(make sure the wife is out of the house) and clean them with warm soapy water and a bit of steel wool or an SOS pad to get the friction plate material/oil/assembly lube off them. You're not trying to sand them dowy, or scuff them up, just clean them. once you go through all the plates dry them completely with a rag or paper towel. They should look something like this:
(Please note the proper bottle of kidney cleaning fluid is in use in the kitchen as well as the garage
You should let the clutch plates sit in the oil for a few hours or overnight.
6. Reassembly is the reverse process, just make sure you put good coat of oil on both sides of every plate(friction and steel) as you reinstall them, and don't forget that the clutch pushrod(black thing in the center of the clutch hub goes in before the clutch hub and hold down springs.
Enjoy.