|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-29-2019 12:38 AM|
|palomartian||I went with some 5/8" delrin rod and made a three point mount using the stock RR, fuse holder, etc bracket in the stock location. Measured the stand-offs on the stock plastic, cut some spacers, and ground the ends to match the body contour. Attached the spacers to the bracket with the stock screws. Drilled through the body and into the spacers, then ran in some screws. One I through-bolted as it was a bit short for screws coming in from both ends. Worked about as well as could be expected. Ended up a little higher than stock so I could secure it to the race body on relatively flat areas. Might even work.|
|05-28-2019 06:56 AM|
Reactive Parts makes a bracket that mounts to the frame and gets the rectifier out of the way...
The bracket might not fit perfectly but after some practice (and heat cycling from the engine) it should get much easier to take on/off (but you can leave it on full time).
|05-23-2019 08:28 PM|
|palomartian||I did search (eventually, lol). I like your idea. I'd like to try the kit wiring harness/puke tank/RR mount at some point. What I don't know is if all the stuff I turned off with the Woolich box will make that harness work with the stock ECU.|
|05-23-2019 07:36 PM|
The KRT oil catch can has 2 posts for the regulator to mount to. You'd need to either extend some wires, or use the race harness, but it makes for a good location.
Do a search, there's a couple of threads on the topic.
|05-22-2019 10:27 PM|
Looking for ideas on mounting the regulator/rectifier with race bodywork on my 2018.
so far I'm planning to build standoffs with some delrin rod and screw it to the fairing in the stock location.