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Thread: ***ZX-10R Owners please read...ESPECIALLY New Owners!!*** Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-07-2019 04:31 AM
Dave Pearson Gold. Thanks for those pearls.
05-20-2018 07:25 PM
Kyle This is one of the best stickies I've read. You covered everything I've noticed and was sketched out about in the first week of ownership!

Good write up!

I'm pretty sure green is faster though, but I won't get into the boring chemistry behind it because it doesn't exist.
09-20-2017 12:05 AM
FastShell Im not new to the litre bikes, had a ZX11 and a Z1000 and nothing I have owned compares to the holy crap sensation the 10R produces.
The only bike I have ridden that comes close is my friends BMW1000RR.
It still seemed more tame with all the electronics even though it was dynoed at 184 rwhp.
I am looking forward to track days next season.
Thanks for the info that I am going to utilize in the near future.
BTW Red is the fastest color
04-27-2015 08:31 AM
Alpha Male Thank you so much for the Op I've learnt so much from reading the info you've posted.
03-25-2015 09:12 AM
Rolandtech Thank you for sharing !!!
03-08-2015 10:19 AM
Alpha Male Thank you so much for this post !!!
10-13-2014 04:25 PM
ninja boy I have not been on this forum in a long time, I've been too busy Pissin on gixxers and R1's, day after sunny day. My 08 has been reduced in weight by 30 lbs.

Lithium ion battery, removed stock exhaust, running titanium into carbon canister, no cats, no baffles. Never had any issues with the black beast, since day one. Runs like a fuckin clock. So all the little squid babies that complain, just don't know how to open that throttle... The 10 needs to be ridden hard, and to it's max capacity, then you'll see the real power it really has.

I have pretty much pissed on all superbikes out there but, just a few.

Some just had inexperienced riders.
07-21-2014 08:05 AM
anothernewphone
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyboymacho View Post
I need some help I bought a mid from mjs performance. The pipe doesn't slide over the header end. The mid pipe has a flanged that is supposed to fit over the header end. I seen a pic of it on line and heard of people using this pipe but nobody said anything about the installation they just show pics of there bikes. I think people are sticking the flanged end into the header so it works. Is that the proper Installation?
Pics?
06-15-2014 08:00 PM
tommyboymacho
Install problem mid pipe

I need some help I bought a mid from mjs performance. The pipe doesn't slide over the header end. The mid pipe has a flanged that is supposed to fit over the header end. I seen a pic of it on line and heard of people using this pipe but nobody said anything about the installation they just show pics of there bikes. I think people are sticking the flanged end into the header so it works. Is that the proper Installation?
06-06-2014 11:38 AM
ramoszx12r All i can said is the bike is fine, all you need to do is replace the rider. after that the bike will be fine. plese donot try and use that rider in any other bike.






Quote:
Originally Posted by hillcountry10r View Post
OK. I'd like to address some issues that I think keep commin up.

This is MHO, so dont freek out if you find it offensive.

FIRST:

Why does my 10r bog down below 5K? Well for one we have what we call a close ratio tranny. To help keep you from wheelieing EVERYWHERE in first due to the min of 150RWHP. The 10r was never designed with pulling away from a stop light in mind. Yes, you may have to rev her up a bit to get her rollin.

Also she's geared high from the factory. this is to keep squids from loopin the bike as you pull out of the dealership parking lot. put a 16t on the front t will help this problem. Yes it will accelerate and wheelie easier. it will also run about 500rpms higher per the same speed.


SECOND:

Which is the best exhaust for my 10R?

NO ONE CARES. There is not one perfect exhaust for the 10r. If you're lookin for extra hp you're nuts to begin with so who cares about that. If you want sound, D&D is loud and typically the shorter the pipe the louder it will be.

Get what exhaust YOU think looks best and leave it at that. it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks. MOST all aftermarket exhausts will out last your time with the 10r so IMO, thats not a factor.

If you get a full system you will need a pcIII and remaping. IMHO a s/o is best for most folks.

THRID:

Which tires should I get?

IF I had to say, I'd suggest a set of PP's or the Dunlop qualifiers. If youre wanting tires that will last you more than 2K miles you bought the wrong kind of bike. Tires are more connected with saftey than folks give them credit and they're cheaper to replace then bodywork.

IE<>Dont wait till they're past the tread bars to replace them.

PSI is very important and connected with tire life. Check it regularly. TEMP changes psi. Cold tires are not always cold because of the outside temp.

FOURTH:

I think my clutch feels funny...Im missing shifts.

CHANGE YOUR OIL! If you put synthetic in your bike really earlly...IE, before 1500-2K miles...you may need to take your clutch out and soak it over night...along with your head.

If youre missing shifts and haven't changed your oil recently, git r dun.

If youre missing shifts with stock rearsets, buy some aftermarket ones and it will typically help this problem.


FIFTH:

I think my valves are tapping...

They may be...but prolly not. the 10r is noisy. Thats just how it is. If you dont like it...rev the bike up more so you cant hear it. Also, the gas tank presurizing will whistle. thats what that sound is.

SIXTH:

My 10r will barely pull up the front end....

OK. The problem isn't with the bike. my bike has pulled up wheelies at 100...in third. thats Stock. Yours will do it too.

If you really think it wont wheelie...go about 50 mph in first, chop the throtle, and then snap it wide open as fast as you can. Tell the EMS that you didn't think a 150RWHP bike woudln't pull the front end up.

***Be sure to have full coverage before trying this, on yourself and your bike...***

SEVENTH:

Which mod is the best bang for the buck?

IMHO, either the 1/5th thottle coversion for $25 or the 16t front sprocket for $40. If you spend $65 on those two things and do them at the same time you'll swear you went from a stock bike to a Factory backed SUPERBIKE. lol, I promise you that!

***if you do those two mods at the same time you're prolly gonna loop it the next time you ride...please be careful...those two mods are equivilant to about 35 more hp...***

*** I knocked over my bike trying to change the front sprocket. Try to get a rearstand before you do it...and an impact gun. w/out those two tools changing that cs will be a nightmare.***

EIGHT:


Which color is the fastest?

Black...DUH!



NINE:

BRAKES

A very common issue with the 04-7 zx10's are the brakes, more specifically initial lever travel before engaged, squishy lever, fading lever travel after repetative use when attending trackdays or racing. For those that find it frustrating and basically a PITA here's a short list of items that will address the aforementioned woes with any or a combination of the following. Yes i realize one should not be spending $$$ on a new /new used bike to rectify such an issue but whats the alternative aside from selling the bike???

aftermarket radial MC (brembo, PVM, AP)
ss-lines, aftermarket pads & fluid
06,7 OEM zx14 nissin calipers
07 OEM zx6r nissin calipers
late model R1 calipers ( https://zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30434)


TENTH:

My 10R gets headshake...

yes it does. Address it with a damper before you kill yourself. I've had a full on tankslapper at 160+...my GPR saved my life!

Dont grip the bars so tight...and dont land wheelies with the front tire cocked. If you do get headshake be sure to remember to pump up the front brakes. If the shakes bad enough it will push the pads away from your rotors, and if you dont pump em back up you will be faced with a very scarry surprise the next time you go to slow down.
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