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New Clutch WTF

3K views 37 replies 15 participants last post by  bluedevil 
#1 ·
So I just installed a new clutch... rode it around the block a few times, seems fine.

Now I go to the drag strip, do my burnout and now the clutch lever has a TON of play. In fact even with the lever pulled all the way in the bike still pulls forward slightly. I do the run anyway and at the end pulling the clutch in does NOTHING. I adjust it, do another run.... and had to do a TON of adjustment again (but not quite as much). WTF is going on here? Anybody else ever experience this?
 
#2 ·
I have seen that happen on a couple of bikes ive done not sure why. after a couple of adjustments it stop and everything worked well. I have gone as far as checking stack hieght to make sure nothing was wrong. but have seen some people have the issue and something was wrong inside the clutch sack hieght was way low
 
#7 ·
Is this the first clutch you have ever put in, not saying you did it wrong but there are a few thing people do wrong when they have never changed a clutch.

1. You are suppose to START with a fiber and END with a fiber.

2. If your bike is an 06 or up did you remember to put the 2 little "washers" between the 1st and 2nd steel? Alot of people accidentally put the washers between the clutch basket and 1st steel and it can get wedged between the basket and hub.

3. The last fiber must be rotated 1 notch from the rest of the fibers.
 
#9 ·
Check on 1. and 3., don't understand why I did #3 though but I did it. If anybody could explain why I would love to know.
I have a 05, so #2 doesn't apply. Oh, and yes it is the first clutch I've replaced.
 
#11 ·
Read through this thread and see if you come across anything you forgot

http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=6525

Also did you make sure the outer hub "locked" into place, it will only go in a certain way and it will rest on the last fiber...

Don't think that is the problem....I check stack height each time and Nola is having the same problem I have had and may still have at the drag strip but don't know yet for my current pack(been through 4 packs already) it's OEM stock used only 180miles but adjustment is always needed just on the street at the lever. :dontknow:....anyway Nola just saying bud I am still playing with this as well and it's not fun showing up to the drag strip knowing you need adjustments and not working right like before/during launch.:badteeth: will update what I find out this year with this current pack or other issues.

bloo
 
#12 ·
The first and last fiber plates are different in thickness to the rest of them, make sure they are correct.
Also very important to soak the plates for at least 2 hours before assembly.

If it was working well before replacement, it shouldn't require adjustment at least that's what I found.
 
#16 ·
Did you lightly sand the judder spring on both sides and the outer hub? Also, you can re-use the gasket a couple of times before it needs replacing (if you're careful).
 
#18 ·
2000. My judder spring was blued pretty bad. I tried to get the bluing off, so I sanded more than I should have. Sanded the inner and outer hub also. Put it back together with some brand new clutch springs and it works great. Btw, I have the Cycle Concepts drag pack. When I first put it in (with bloos help) I didn't check or replace the clutch springs. I think this was my biggest problem, but I sanded the the other parts not wanting to tear it apart again.
 
#19 ·
My judder spring wasn't very blued if my memory serves correctly. Either way, I'll give it a lil' sand job when I pull it out again. I also stuck in some new EBC springs because they were supposed to be slightly stronger. I'm a weakling and it's stock motor so didn't want to go too heavy duty.
 
#20 ·
Give the outer hub a little sanding too while you're there.
 
#21 ·
Is that true for OEM only? I stuck CycleConcepts Drag-Pac in there (along with a billet basket) and didn't check to see if two were thicker than the rest.[/QUOTE said:
All aftermarket clutches should be the same as OEM, if it's not, don't use it.

The aftermarket clutch kits I've used all had 2 plates that were different to the rest same as OEM.

I suggest checking them for peace of mind. While you are there check the measurments of the basket againts the OEM, you never know.

Good Luck.
 
#22 ·
lol, my luck sucks ass.

So, I pulled the clutch... sanded all the plates and hub with 2k grit sandpaper and check stack height (2.115in). Re-soaked everything, put it back in. Oh and only 1 plate was different than all others (besides judder plate) and all fibers were same width.

So the million dollar question (and why does your luck suck)...

Battery is dead now, so I cant test it. sigh
 
#23 ·
Lol, that does suck. Make sure you post up what you find out as Ill be attempting a clutch install soon on my 10.
 
#25 ·
.. and the luck gets better. Standing on left side I walked it up the ramp, got it on trailer and somehow it got away to the right side. Slowly fell to the right and my 5'6 135lb ass had no leverage to stop it... fell off the trailer and sat there UPSIDE DOWN propped against trailer.
 
#33 ·
Amen to an enclosed trailer. Sometimes you need a little 'push' to get the things you want.
 
#37 ·
Question for you. Everytime I ride a few miles it seems that i have to adjust my clutch cable from the top because either its harder to shift in to gear or it won't shift down a gear. But once I adjust the clutch, everything is smooth. I just changed my clutches last summer and probably went to the track once since then with minimal passes. Everything seemed to pull good even afterl. then one day last week I went to put my bike in gear topull off and it cut off. Checked the clutches out and they were burnt out. I usually change my clutches out once a year with alot of track time not much street time. But this time I don't know whats going on.
 
#34 ·
I'm bumping this thread because I ran across the answer that was asked in this thread a few times.

The question was, Why you rotate the last clutch fiber one notch in the clutch basket?

I ran across the answer on psychobike, the following answer is from Dwayne at Concept Cycles, so it is pretty reliable information.

the last fiber being run in the same groove as the rest of the fibers will not cause any problems..the offset notch is merely there as a wear indicator and will allow the clutch to slip as it reaches it's service limit..putting the last fiber in the same groove will get you alittle more clutch life before you have to replace...
 
#35 ·
I'm bumping this thread because I ran across the answer that was asked in this thread a few times.

The question was, Why you rotate the last clutch fiber one notch in the clutch basket?

I ran across the answer on psychobike, the following answer is from Dwayne at Concept Cycles, so it is pretty reliable information.

the last fiber being run in the same groove as the rest of the fibers will not cause any problems..the offset notch is merely there as a wear indicator and will allow the clutch to slip as it reaches it's service limit..putting the last fiber in the same groove will get you alittle more clutch life before you have to replace...
Good bump :thumbsup: yeah Dwayne knows clutches so that should end that question for good..:wink:

bloo
 
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