|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-19-2019 12:07 AM|
|donkey-shlong||Also, my rebound dampening adjuster reading was 15.67mm before i adjusted it, when i adjusted it to 13mm and rebuilt my fork there was much less spring back when i pushed on it... should i have left them alone at 15.67mm?|
|05-18-2019 11:33 AM|
Originally Posted by Mons7er View Post
I'm very much a noob at bike maintenance but I've almost finished replacing my fork seals on my gen 2, PITA compared to when i did them on my f4i... been mainly following this guys video (
Also attached a screen shot from the manual (06/07), I feel it could of been explained better... can i have some confirmation that i know what i'm talking about?
|05-22-2017 06:11 PM|
|David-C1h-McI||New to this forum, joined so that i could get help to do my fork seals and my noisey clutch, this thread is just what i needed to get my seals done, great thread ?|
|03-20-2017 08:15 AM|
Originally Posted by mvvette97 View Post
for reference: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/...49100sch439658
|03-15-2017 01:46 AM|
Originally Posted by Ludite100 View Post
|03-12-2017 09:04 AM|
|rkremer||Awesome writeup, and some excellent followup tips! Thanks everyone! If you want to remove the damping assembly, you can pretty easily make your own tool instead of buying the official Fork Cylinder Holder 57001-1287. I used a piece of 3/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe. Just cut 4, 10mm wide flats into one end, and bingo, the damping rod assembly comes right out. I used a hacksaw to cut the flats, drilled out the unneeded corners, and used a knife to clean off all the edges. You could probably get by with only 2 flats, which would be easier to make.|
|06-21-2016 10:39 AM|
so i've been convinced to do this myself.
I have the part numbers for the seals;
92049-0064 Seal, Oil
92093-0042 Seal, Dust
Now i'm running K_Tech internals. I may well use this guide and the service manual and do another write up if there are any major differences.
|06-20-2016 09:25 AM|
|USCG_zx10r||So I followed this guide and it was awesome! I didn't have the measurement tool for the fluid though so I measured it how the manual said by going from the top of the cap to fluid level. So my question now is, why are my two forks about 5mm different in height? The throttle side is sitting higher than the clutch side. All of the compression and rebound are all set the same amount of clicks and everything. Any suggestions? Do I go back in on the throttle side and lower the lockout 2.5mm and raise the lockout on clutch side 2.5mm to even them out? Will post a picture later|
|01-08-2015 02:58 PM|
A couple of quick tips.
1) I always bottom the needle on the rebound adjuster. Don't crush it, just good and smug. This insures that when you remove the cap and reinstall the cap, that once you screw the cap back on until it stops, you are back to the same positions. This also insures that you retain the same amount of adjustment.
2) I usually apply a small amount of light grease to the seal. There is a pocket in between the inner and outer edge of the seal. The grease will fill that void and help extend the life of the seal. Just a small amount though.
3) I always clean the lower tube with Scotchbrite (Green). Sandwich the Scotchbrite and fork tube together in my hands and roll them together like dough. With the fork in a vise, this will cause a circular cross hatch on the tube as you slide your hands and scotchbrite up and down the fork tube. This crosshatch helps cut down on stichtion in the forks.
|07-24-2014 03:02 PM|
|Omofo||So it appears I just wasted $45 on a motion pro seal driver...|
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|