What did you do to your bike today? - Page 602 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #6011 of 6028 Old 04-11-2019, 04:05 AM
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changed my pads cause the oem pads were getting squeeky and lever very spongy.... still squishy / spongy after changing
bled them (all 3 points) and then ziptied lever overnight.... better, but still not as good as i think they should be
goto kawa dealer for a full fluid flush and vacuum bleed.... feel worse than my bleed job, about same as when i first changed the pads!

needed the fluid flushed anyway since it was probably 3+ years old, but kinda pissed they didnt get the air out... guess ill be doing it again myself

maybe need to blast my rotors too, but for sure the lever should not be this spongey with new pads, new fluid, and a bleed... i can squeeze it almost down to the grip!

btw, i know this isnt a tech thread, just came to post the pic and ended up venting lol


When I had this problem I bled again starting with the MC as advised by Skydork. I also reverse bled from the calipers using a big plastic syringe , Notoriously difficult to get all air out of calipers
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post #6012 of 6028 Old 04-11-2019, 06:54 AM
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yeah when i did it myself i started at left calpier, right caliper, then MC.... used a clear tube... i wasnt getting much in the way of visible air bubbles... did each spot about 10-15 times... a bunch of pumps and then slowly release the valve and close again.... maybe 15 times per location isnt enough?

i also did the ziptie thing overnight after the bleed... that seems to make the biggest difference

gonna repeat the whole process and see how it goes.... thanks for the input guys... worst case scenario i could probalby find an MC off a wrecked bike pretty cheap to try swapping it out... or is a rebuild kit cheaper/better idea?
do MC's go bad often? ive only been into bikes for 3yrs now, previously was into cars all my life, bad MC was rare on vehicle so young (my gen5 is a '16) but i do have 35k km on it already, so i guess thats a lot of abuse.
Spongy brakes is either air in lines, a leak from somewhere, or your MC is shot. If you feel confident you got all air out then inspect closely for a leak somewhere. If you find nothing then rebuilding the MC would be my next move. Seals go bad even though it's a newer bike it wouldn't be unheard of with the miles you have.

Goodluck!
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post #6013 of 6028 Old 04-11-2019, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by renais View Post
When I had this problem I bled again starting with the MC as advised by Skydork. I also reverse bled from the calipers using a big plastic syringe , Notoriously difficult to get all air out of calipers
Agreed. Getting all the air out is not easy! I filled up my reservoir over a dozen times before getting bubbles out.

+1 Patience and a syringe!
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post #6014 of 6028 Old 04-11-2019, 07:48 AM
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I have speed bleeders.... but it takes lots of time
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post #6015 of 6028 Old 04-11-2019, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by wheelz96 View Post
Spongy brakes is either air in lines, a leak from somewhere, or your MC is shot. If you feel confident you got all air out then inspect closely for a leak somewhere. If you find nothing then rebuilding the MC would be my next move. Seals go bad even though it's a newer bike it wouldn't be unheard of with the miles you have.

Goodluck!

thanks.. any tricks for finding possible leaks?
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post #6016 of 6028 Old 04-11-2019, 03:47 PM
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Agreed. Getting all the air out is not easy! I filled up my reservoir over a dozen times before getting bubbles out.

+1 Patience and a syringe!

wow a dozen times? i think i only topped up 3-4 times when i bled them myself

i ordered a little hand pump vacuum bleeder (i dont have an air compressor setup at home for the nice one yet)

should make things a little easier

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post #6017 of 6028 Old 04-11-2019, 04:30 PM
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Definitely easier then the old fashioned way. Just keep a close eye on your reservoir because it will suck the fluid out somewhat quick. DO NOT let it go empty.

As for finding leaks i would just use a flashlight and check closely around all connections including your MC. Check reservoir and see if you lost any fluid first then look carefully from there. Try pumping brakes while inspecting with flashlight. It may not be very obvious. If it's completely dry and you are certain to have removed all air then a MC rebuild is next. Not a hard thing to do and rebuild kits are inexpensive.

Once you use vacuum bleeder zip tie lever again for 24 hrs and see what happens. Hopefully it's just a matter of getting all the air out.
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post #6018 of 6028 Old 04-12-2019, 03:00 AM
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Check reservoir and see if you lost any fluid first then look carefully from there.
thanks, have never lost any fluid yet... but its possible air seeps in, rather than fluid coming out?
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post #6019 of 6028 Old 04-12-2019, 07:32 AM
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Air could be coming in from caliper seal also. This happened to me on an older car where I applied brake pressure it made seal expand and then sucked in air when releasing brakes due to seal moving with piston back into bore. Replaced calipers on that occasion and fixed issue.

When you bleed brakes take notice to which area is full of air. You may only be getting air from left caliper, only right, or only MC. That will help narrow down where your issue is coming from. At this point you just need to start working on it.

You can also try the syringe method and push fluid up through lines from calipers. This will help push all air to the top. Many ways to skin a cat here..
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post #6020 of 6028 Old 04-12-2019, 08:28 AM
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You can also try the syringe method and push fluid up through lines from calipers. This will help push all air to the top. Many ways to skin a cat here..
watched some vids on this but never tried it myself yet... so you do the syringe push first... at each location or just 1? and then do a regular bleed after that?

seems everyone has their own method
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