What did you do to your bike today? - Page 601 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #6001 of 6027 Old 03-28-2019, 08:13 PM
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I made a homemade clip on alignment tool to get my new clip ons equally set. Copied the Motion Pro design found here (https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0574). What do you guys do for clip on alignment?
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post #6002 of 6027 Old 03-29-2019, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by wheelz96 View Post
I made a homemade clip on alignment tool to get my new clip ons equally set. Copied the Motion Pro design found here (https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0574). What do you guys do for clip on alignment?
I bought the Motion Pro Tool.
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post #6003 of 6027 Old 03-29-2019, 08:43 AM
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I just used relative marks off of the triple clamp along with sitting on the bike. When I was done, I also paint marked the clip-ons to the triple. I'm glad I did because they would move slightly on track as I didn't have them tight enough at first! Now they are properly torqued and stay put. Also makes re-assembly a breeze.
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post #6004 of 6027 Old 03-29-2019, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mattinrsm View Post
I just used relative marks off of the triple clamp along with sitting on the bike. When I was done, I also paint marked the clip-ons to the triple. I'm glad I did because they would move slightly on track as I didn't have them tight enough at first! Now they are properly torqued and stay put. Also makes re-assembly a breeze.
That is how I first mounted them. Using the top triple to judge and eyeball the clip ons. However, after sitting on the bike and running down the road I noticed my left arm just a tick straighter then my right. This inspired making the alignment tool. Super easy to make and after using it and making adjustment each side is within at least .030".

To each his own but I like the idea of you marking the clip ons. I will be scribing them tonight!

And yea I torqued them down pretty good but they certainly have alot of clamping pressure!
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post #6005 of 6027 Old 04-02-2019, 08:46 PM
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Just finished up the pcv, quick shifter, exhaust servo delete, and custom making and mounting pcv map selector switch (no offense to dynojet as they have amazing stuff but $50+ for a switch is absurd!). Waiting on leo Vince cat delete pipe, secondary fuel module and block off plates then off for a 93 and e85 tune. Plus added a few stickers for extra hp!
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post #6006 of 6027 Old 04-08-2019, 08:12 AM
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Well, nowadays I'm riding an '04 ZX12R. I finally worked out my fuel pump/fuel filter issue which was limiting me to 7k rpm, and took out the Power Commander that the last owner had cause it probably had a shitty tune on it. Went 190mph and climbing with it before I let off **on closed course with professional rider (lol of course)**. Love this bike now. And put my '05 ZX6R 636 back in storage with it too.
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post #6007 of 6027 Old 04-10-2019, 04:28 AM
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changed my pads cause the oem pads were getting squeeky and lever very spongy.... still squishy / spongy after changing
bled them (all 3 points) and then ziptied lever overnight.... better, but still not as good as i think they should be
goto kawa dealer for a full fluid flush and vacuum bleed.... feel worse than my bleed job, about same as when i first changed the pads!

needed the fluid flushed anyway since it was probably 3+ years old, but kinda pissed they didnt get the air out... guess ill be doing it again myself

maybe need to blast my rotors too, but for sure the lever should not be this spongey with new pads, new fluid, and a bleed... i can squeeze it almost down to the grip!

btw, i know this isnt a tech thread, just came to post the pic and ended up venting lol


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post #6008 of 6027 Old 04-10-2019, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRoadWarrior View Post
changed my pads cause the oem pads were getting squeeky and lever very spongy.... still squishy / spongy after changing
bled them (all 3 points) and then ziptied lever overnight.... better, but still not as good as i think they should be
goto kawa dealer for a full fluid flush and vacuum bleed.... feel worse than my bleed job, about same as when i first changed the pads!

needed the fluid flushed anyway since it was probably 3+ years old, but kinda pissed they didnt get the air out... guess ill be doing it again myself

maybe need to blast my rotors too, but for sure the lever should not be this spongey with new pads, new fluid, and a bleed... i can squeeze it almost down to the grip!

btw, i know this isnt a tech thread, just came to post the pic and ended up venting lol


I wouldn't put much into whatever your local dealer did. They usually do a half ass job in my experience.

What was your sequence in bleeding? Sounds like you still have air. Are you using a clear tube on bleeder? Are you getting bubbles? A good bleeding should eliminate this. Start from furthest caliper and work towards master. If you get all air out and still spongey you may need to rebuild MC.

I believe you still have air in the lines or a bad connection somewhere..
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post #6009 of 6027 Old 04-10-2019, 08:20 AM
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had the same problem, looked at the pads no warping, and had to let the brake with a zip tie for 2 days and it became better...
not perfect but way better.
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post #6010 of 6027 Old 04-10-2019, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelz96 View Post
I wouldn't put much into whatever your local dealer did. They usually do a half ass job in my experience.

What was your sequence in bleeding? Sounds like you still have air. Are you using a clear tube on bleeder? Are you getting bubbles? A good bleeding should eliminate this. Start from furthest caliper and work towards master. If you get all air out and still spongey you may need to rebuild MC.

I believe you still have air in the lines or a bad connection somewhere..

yeah when i did it myself i started at left calpier, right caliper, then MC.... used a clear tube... i wasnt getting much in the way of visible air bubbles... did each spot about 10-15 times... a bunch of pumps and then slowly release the valve and close again.... maybe 15 times per location isnt enough?

i also did the ziptie thing overnight after the bleed... that seems to make the biggest difference

gonna repeat the whole process and see how it goes.... thanks for the input guys... worst case scenario i could probalby find an MC off a wrecked bike pretty cheap to try swapping it out... or is a rebuild kit cheaper/better idea?
do MC's go bad often? ive only been into bikes for 3yrs now, previously was into cars all my life, bad MC was rare on vehicle so young (my gen5 is a '16) but i do have 35k km on it already, so i guess thats a lot of abuse.
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