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Lost Key, suggestions

11K views 30 replies 9 participants last post by  russelljamie681 
#1 ·
Before anyone gets the wrong idea, this is 100% legit. I'm in New Zealand and I just purchased a 2017 ZX10RR that does not have a key. The owner was a young guy with to much disposable income ( runs/owns an online casino site and seriously creams it !!) and absolutely no common sense. He moved house 3 months ago and lost his keys ... yes, both of them. A total muppet but he's paid a big price because I got this thing for a seriously good price and it only has 1600kms on the clock (apparently). I've done loads of back ground checks and I have all the the paperwork from him, checked with Kawasaki NZ and it's as stated, 100% legit.
So what now ?
I have the 4 digit number for the key code on the warranty registration certificate and I may be able to get a key cut to suit the barrel and get it recoded by Kawasaki ... is getting a key cut for a barrel even possible without a donor ?

One idea is try some race teams that have ditched the keys and installed a race ECU. ?

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
#2 ·
One idea is try some race teams that have ditched the keys and installed a race ECU. ?

Any ideas would be appreciated.
If you're not putting full coverage on the bike then I wouldn't recommend ditching the key. If the bike is insured then you can remove the key for a toggle switch. What I would ALSO do if you decide to bypass the key is buy a kill switch key/lanyard. I included a link. That way you have at least Some kind of key that prevents people from starting your bike and dicking around with it.

https://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/hc01.asp
 
#3 ·
Yes, the idea I suggested was not to ditch a keyed ignition but to hear from race teams that had and thus the keys, barrel and ECU surplus. But as you alluded to, it's definitely an option to just use a toggle switch to at least get it running. I'm also guessing that there could be key cutting companies that may have the skills to cut a key to suit the existing barrel through trial and error. Once they hit the jackpot with test blanks, transfer to a genuine ZX10R blank and then get the key code installed.
Not sure if that can be done however.
 
#4 ·
Well, let me see if I can help here. The problem will be because you are in New Zealand. The Euro models have the anti-theft feature built into the bike. The immobilizer is chipped to the key. Cutting a new key won't really be an option without having a key to match it to.

You'll need to buy a new ignition switch with matching chipped keys and have the immobilizer reprogrammed to the new set. From that point, you have have the fuel cap barrel matched along with the passenger seat. Going to a race ECU is going to be way more expensive and you'll lose other things, like you lights and sidestand.

If it wasn't for the immobilizer function in the Euro version, this would be a cheap way to go, but I don't think this will work correctly if the immobilizer is part of the bike since it won't bypass that. This is for North America versions only that I'm aware.
https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/w...ation-harness/

Glad you got the bike at a good price! Fix this problem and enjoy it!
 
#6 ·
Thanks for taking the time to reply, much appreciated.
Yes, it is a Euro model and the ignition clearly says Immobilizer.
My thought was to get some blank keys from Kawasaki, take the bike (or just the fuel cap) to a good locksmith and get him to attempt by trial and error with some donor keys the same shape as the Kawasaki ones until he had found the right configuration. Then cut the Kawasaki ones to suit. I could then take those to Kawasaki for them to program the keys with the 4 digit key code which I have on the warranty registration certificate.
Is this a viable plan ?
I'm assuming there would be some "experts" out there that would know how to go about this process and probably have "experience" from car "transfers" , I'm just not in those circles lol
 
#8 ·
So the latest is I have ordered a key for the RR model from Kawasaki, the dealer was not sure if it had the immobilizer downloaded onto it but you would think so if its for that model (and the price !!). Then I can take it to a locksmith who can cut it to the keycode which is supplied on the Warranty Registration Certificate. Once that is done I'm hoping it will turn the ignition on but I will then have to take the bike to a dyno tuner guru here who can disable the immobilizer in the ECU. Fingers crossed that this works.
The locksmith has told me that the 4 digit number code on the WRC is what they use to cut the key with, a check on his data base confirmed they had that but he wasn't sure if they had the cutters and dies to suit the shape, although he doubted that the key shapes would be unusual.
 
#15 ·
so it's putting all the current through my run stop switch? ok cool, I'll upgrade the 8nternal contacts in the OEM switch to be able to handle the current safely. My only concern would be my remote kill switch. That has seriously small wire gauge for any serious current which is why I installed it on one of the loop back wires. The same one that would need a resistor if it was a euro model. The woodcraft harness itself is easily able to handle the current that the bike can draw so that is in no way a concern. worst case my run kill switch cooks but it won't cause my bike to burn since it is mounted on the clipon
 
#16 ·
Latest is that I received the key from the courier yesterday arfo, so there I was, like a kid opening a pressie and then, with much anticipation, skipping into my bike shed, and with a similar glee to what I vaguely recall as when I had my first sex all those years ago, slid the key it into the ignition.

Drum roll, will it work, am I lucky, will life as I know it be good to me today.

Well, naa, turns out my first poke was way more satisfying although just as quickly over.

Key won't turn in the ignition, fuel cap or tail.
so why not, it's a ZX10R Kawasaki key, the key code was on my registration cert and the locksmith used that code to cut the key.
But no way does it turn.
Guess next step is to try and take the ignition off. Easier said than done when I can't get the steering lock undone nor the tail off to get access under and around the tank to unplug the ignition wire.
This is going to be a challenge.
 
#17 ·
the ignition is simple to pick with a cheap lock pick set. doesn't take long either but I think I would either raise the key up a tiny bit or get a Dremel and file the top shoulder down to allow the key to set deeper in the ignition before trying anything else since you already have it and paid for it
 
#18 ·
So I was lucky enough to get hold of a mobile locksmith today. Lucky because I live in a small coastal town a good distance from any major cities here in NZ. He just happened to be coming to this region today and to cut a longish story short he had a key cut that unlocked the fuel cap, tail and steering lock / ignition in no time. I have lights etc and the bike turns over but obviously does not start.
Turns out the other locksmiths had got it completely wrong so the $93 Kawasaki key was now useless which was pretty annoying but countered by the relief of getting it all unlocked. Of course they maintain they dialed in the code I gave them so nothing I can do but suck it in.

I've also spoken to the dyno tuner/electronic techo who has told me that to unlock and disable the immobilizer in the (Euro) ECU he has to buy the FTECU map / license for the USA model, which doesn't have the immobilizer function. That apparently is not simply down loading a new file into the ECU, 16 wires need to be changed in the plug.
I have no idea if that is really what needs to be done, he could be bullshitting but I don't have the knowledge on this to challenge that.

Because it's a decent drive to take the bike to him (3hrs) I'm going to wait until I can score a decat pipe and slip on muffler first and get it tuned properly.

On that note, anybody have an aftermarket muffler / pipe they want to sell ?
 
#20 ·
I really don't know but I doubt it. The immobilizer apparently works via a resistor in the wiring so the ignition won't work with a US ECU. I would need to get a US ignition switch as well, at least that's what I think is the case, but it's also likely I'm wrong. In any case, this technician can do all the mods, I'm just suspicious about the fact and fiction aspect. It's the only thing on my bikes I avoid tinkering with, it's time I changed that.
 
#22 ·
Can a locksmith provide a new key same as provided by the dealer?
Nope. They aren't standard keys that a locksmith would have access to. A locksmith should be able to cut it, but you'd have to get a blank from the dealer and take it to them.
 
#24 ·
Just an update on this post which I started last year. So I managed to get a locksmith to cut a key to turn the ignition on, unlock the steering, seat and fuel cap. But whilst the starter motor could turn the engine over it wouldn't fire. So after much research the best option was to find a replacemnt ECU/ignition barrel/keys .... which was easy. On ebay actually (haven't brought of there for many years) a race team team in the UK with a new RR had just stripped the entire wire loom/ecu/keys/barrel and subframe that holds the ECU ( has those pesky one way screws that are a pig to undo) so I ended up getting all of that for 399 pounds which is about $800NZ or $560US. Seeing as how my bike will be a dedicated track bike anyway I could have gone down the race ecu/harness route but that would have compromised resale value as at my age this whole exercise is pretty temporary anyway, so I want the option to convert the bike back to road trim. All the black RR fairings and road gear are now stored, even got a crappy looking damaged tank under the tank cover, plus I have a spare wire loom, ECU and ignition barrel.
About two weeks after the new ecu etc arrived from the UK (last year) the previous owner rung me and said he had found the lost keys !!!!!!!!!!! ......... he wanted $1500 for them lol ........ told him thanks but no thanks .......so now I have a spare ECU/barrel with no key and he has a key with no ECU/barrel ... if anyone wants or needs this setup I may be able get that key for $750NZ but I don't need it so hopefully he has it stored in a safe place.
Finally, due to being immersed in finishing building a house I share with my partner the entire bike build has been on a massive go slow ... ie ... it's not finished. SIGH
 
#25 ·
Hey thanks for the update. That euro immobilizer crap sucks. But I can see where it could be nice too. I just rock a key switch elimination harness, cost all of 60 bucks and eliminated the need for the key short of getting under the tail of the bike..wonder if a euro ecu could be flashed to non euro and not look for the immobilizer any more. That would be a handy trick
 
#27 ·
I looked into getting the FTEC system, then using that to by pass the immobilizer, which can all be done by re routing some wires to change from euro to US spec. The tech said all pretty simple but quite time consuming, so by the time I drop the bike off with him and then pick up again = 2 x 6hr round trips which is a lot of time off when you run/own a small business (engineer) plus there is a compromise regarding resale value so I decided my option was the best for me. As it turns out I was able to pick up a 2nd hand full Woolich kit and the dyno tuner for that is only a 2 1/2 hr round trip away so win win when I get my shit together.

Part of my procrastination issue is the fact that my trusty 2007 R1 race bike is such a beast, 190hp, all the fruit, no electronics ... I can't match the modern bikes out of the corners due to no TC etc but other than that it's insane and so much fun. Plus it's quite buzzy being an old fart on an old bike beating younger guys on the later model stuff with all the electronic aids.
 
#28 ·
Give this guy a shout, he's in Melbourne.
Company is called Ostanlock.

All you need to do is remove top triple clamp and ECU and send them to him.

Whatch this video and you will understand what I mean:

BTW, I have no affiliation to him or his company, I'm only trying to help out.
 
#30 ·
Just an update, I have now purchased a kit ECU/harness for the track (from Carlos on this forum, great guy to deal with) because I decided to go the whole way to a track conversion. Engine is out to have .4mm skimmed off the head, cams dialed to 110/108, .55 head gasket, shims under valve springs, kit intake manifolds, kit chain tensioner, air filter, Spark exhaust, etc.While it's out I'm stripping the ABS crap out completely and oem wire harness. 23 degree steering head inserts, L74 rear quick change kit, 520 conversion, Brembo RCS 17 m/c, Vortex rearsets ........... I'm now skint ........
 
#31 ·
Before anyone gets the wrong idea, this is 100% legit. I'm in New Zealand and I just purchased a 2017 ZX10RR that does not have a key. The owner was a young guy with to much disposable income ( runs/owns an online casino site and seriously creams it !!) and absolutely no common sense. He moved house 3 months ago and lost his keys ... yes, both of them. A total muppet but he's paid a big price because I got this thing for a seriously good price and it only has 1600kms on the clock (apparently). I've done loads of back ground checks and I have all the the paperwork from him, checked with Kawasaki NZ and it's as stated, 100% legit. So what now ? I have the 4 digit number for the key code on the warranty registration certificate and I may be able to get a key cut to suit the barrel and get it recoded by Kawasaki ... is getting a key cut for a barrel even possible without a donor ? One idea is try some race teams that have ditched the keys and installed a race ECU. ? Any ideas would be appreciated.
I myself would buy a aftermarket key switch and key online for 30. 00 us dollars and either add a 100 ohms Resistor in the middle of the wire coming for switch or I would take the old switch apart and add new tumbler to old switch problem solved
 
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