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who has port work?

3K views 29 replies 11 participants last post by  tone.r 
#1 ·
trying to get more info before i kick my 10 off in a grave!! i had an epoxy port,cams,decked.012,thin gasket,sidewinder with no baffle and it seemed to not get any faster.whats the secret with these damn heads?
 
#5 ·
ive spoke to garth before about an epoxy port before i even got one.he knew how to do one but couldnt really answer most of the ? i had about it.i want a dragracers opinion! :idea:
 
#7 ·
not so much hurt but takes away some midrange wich you really dont need.it actually picked up a mph when i pulled the baffle.yes a sidewinder is made for peak power and to move air,i actually seen a gain from it.the only reason i got it was for ground clearance...i think i have an answer to my prob anyways.thanks
 
#9 ·
what year is the bike. As i stated before epoxy jobs (my opinion) are for road racing bikes. You dont gain a bunch of top end power from them. YOu can show me a dyno before and after doing an epoxy job and there is a huge gain down low and overall but you have to take in consideration must of the time you are setting the squish tighter at the same time. I think you should get another head done(not epoxy) and if turns out better for you then sell the epoxy job to a road racer.
 
#12 ·
i spoke with Dwayne today and i believe he has pointed me in the right direction and put some things on the table i havent thought of.cam timing could def be an issue...esp seeing that Kawasaki recommends setting the 08 race cam to 110-111 i believe...dont hold me to that but i know its something like that.if thats the case i have it set for pure midrange wich offers my setup NOTHING.another thing is that in my head kawi didnt design the "race" cam for dragracing.this cam seems to be real strong in the midrange area put planes off in the top end.im also seeing my 330 numbers in the 5.7x range but after that its losing something somewhere.i know my 10 by the back of my hand and with every pass from the 60ft to the traps i can tell you what the bikes doing,so i def know where im at a power loss.taking the head off and doing another port is just throwing parts at it.Ryan Kallina did a outstanding job on my head...ive just got to figure out what cam package/ or magic # im looking for.thanks for everybodys opinion on this
 
#14 ·
tens love sidewinders,especially with compression. that 08 cam is short on duration, hence the high lobe center for some top end. thought about trying it myself. decided on basic web regrinds, not hardwelds because of budget. also, unshrouding intake valves is almost comparable to adding lift, and the ten is shrouded. keep sharing, good info. helps me with my motor, and dont get discouraged, making a bike fly is a process.
 
#15 ·
ok had a chance to go out last night,despite having some sir shifter issues i played with the tune a bit and didnt see results.on the last 2 passes i added 2 deg of timing and came to life!i believe its safe to add another 2 deg giving it +4 total.im gona try this setup fri night before i move the cams to 109/109....also anybody dragging the 08 10?i set one up for a guy and it seems to have the chatter issue like the zooks before a clutch mod,it has a diff steel setup in it thats causing this i think.im gona put a 04 setup in it tonight and see if it resolves the issue
 
#18 ·
I'd say throw more timing at it as long as you're fuel will hold it. As for the clutch, I'm really happy with my 06 and I'd assume the 08 is pretty similar. Mine lasted all last season racing swb, w/ 1.58's and is still in the bike now. I have to relearn how to ride a long bike and have only cut a 1.51 with it as it sits now @ 62". It seems like the only time it chatters is during a dry hop.
 
#17 ·
this means your throwing the clutch away,u have to slip the clutch if u wana see good 60fts and 330's.your right i was testing it trying diff things and if you throw it away u wont feel it but i launch hard and if i dont see a 1.36-1.38 every pass i might as well load it up because anything less just dont cut it :thumbsup:
 
#19 ·
update:eek:k so this was def a cam timing issue.i went to my tuner and got a dyno graph comparison of my stock motor vs ported head setup and its makin all the power in the midrange from idle to 8500 rpm...this does me no good at the track.although if i wanted a street bike it would make for nasty power.i moved the cams to 109/110 last night,when i got it back running i could already tell a diff in the way it reved on the bottom end,was def slower...this should make for alot more peak power.weather permitting im gona test wed night and hope for the best.i also removed the secondary butterfly shaft from the throttle bodies,what diff this will make i dont know but it should at least help things flow better.the only thing i dont like about it is that you have to help the bike warmup.
 
#20 ·
:idea:this def worked.e.t.,mph,330...everything picked up gain.i can feel the true power of this setup now.im not sure if 109/110 is the right # for this setup but it def works for me.the bike ran 5.7x's in 80% humidity with my 190lb ass on it,and it would only do this before in cold air and u4.2. now it does it on pump gas:mrgreen:
 
#22 ·
Keep the info coming! I got a question about degreeing my stock cams. When I switched from pump to E85 I had a huge increase around 9500 (+11-12hp same dyno similar run conditions) and 4 peak. I knew I would see my biggest increase near where I made peak torque. Would moving my cams for more topend help move this power potential higher into the rpm range and possibly give me a bigger increase because of the higher rpm. If so what degree #'s would help acheive this? I'll even take a link to help explain degree #'s and how they affect performance if somebody has one.
 
#23 ·
ape explains it very well,i know it gave me more peak hp because my mph picked up and mph tells u alot!trying to find somebody to reflash the ecu so i can let it rev higher also
 
#26 ·
no im taking it to ryan in a couple weeks to use his guy,im gona tune on u4.4 because unlike u4.2 u can spray on it.id almost say it just had to give it more peak hp because the previous dyno graph vs the stock motor showed no increase in the top end.the bike leaves diff,accelerates diff,..etc.i know for a fact that this cam timing is going to work for me.this time last year the bike could barely touch the 5.8x's.i still need an adams flat link,48mm clipons so i can get the bike alot lower in the front,and a slider.another thing is that since i had the forks cut i feel a huge diff in the way it gets outa the whole...ive got a really good clutch hand,but if i get off of it too hard it def totes wheelies.the 3mm spacers im using in the clutch springs seem to be working perfect and def will help the life of the clutch pack.id like to c this setup run low 5.6x's on a slider if i could get the 60ft down to about a 1.29:mrgreen:
 
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