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Tips with launching please, clutch seems to shatter too much!

Gen 3: 2008-10 
4K views 37 replies 13 participants last post by  bgmagma10 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,:thumbsup:

Need some good tips in launching here. Everytime Ive ran at the track I havnt been doing 100% throttle off the line cause the damn thing just wheelied everywhere. Got a front strap now and shes alot more tame. Anywho I went to some back roads and started practicing today.

Basically no matter how slow and steady I feather the clutch it always seems to grab real hard (pop front end up) than it will settle back down, pop back up again (clutch appears to be in the same position just throttle backed off a tad), than towards the end of the clutch stroke it seems to grab REEEAL nice and smooth, than the tire breaks loose for a bit and off I go:cool:

These runs were about 85-90% throttle off the line i would guess. I think my clutch adjustment is all whacko and I would like to know the steps you guys do it in and check the adjustment. It seems to start grabbing at about half stroke and all the way to the top. This is my conclusion anyways because my old ZX6R would launch like a bat out of hell compared to this beast.

Any other tips would be awesome. Ive been pussy footing this bike due to wheelie problems but the strap helps a TONNE, Best ET Ive had is a 10.61@138mph at 3400 feet above sea level:mrgreen:, still pretty brutal times and this is with a 2.00 or 1.9ish 60 foots. I would like to be in the 1.6-1.7 range by this weekend by your help:thumbsup:

Thanks fellas:zx_green:

Mods are:
PV5 with mild tune
Racefit growler
Strapped
STOCK gearing
Bike has only 4000miles on it.
 
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#11 · (Edited)
The slipper clutch is your problem, this is how you fix it! Weld the inner basket together, and you can slide the clutch on launch.
This is how you fix the 09 clutch, I go high 1.4's in the 60'. Its smooth comes out hard and both wheels down majority of the time. Check out my pic above
 
#10 ·
Brutal runs tonight. Went WOT off the line couple both times and it would wheelie, drop, wheelie, than drop again netting me rediculas 60 foots of 2.3. Something seems wrong with my unit...clutch is brutal. It wasnt my night regardless but something was off.

Better luck next time.
 
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#17 ·
Don't want to bust anyone's bubble but I bought from C.Concepts it's the same stuff as OEM just uses smaller pad frictions through out the "Pak" but nothing has ever lasted me more than OEM of course not as aggressive when I first Started on the 10R went for a few years or so on OEM and already went through 2 other Clutch Paks with CC after that now back to OEM used from a member......bottom line CC use to be a site sponsor his is no longer a site sponsor so it doesn't matter what I say other than my experiance but I can guarantee the one's that swear by the "PAK" don't even know the diff. :wink:

bloo
 
#20 ·
The gen 2 and 3 clutches use 2 big washers in between the 1st and 2nd steel that seems to cause a lot of chatter, when you call and order the drag Pak tell him you want to convert it to the 1st gen clutch (he will know what your talking about, he does a lot of them) the first gen clutch instead of having the washers it has basically 2 steels riveted together and will eliminate your chatter.
 
#22 ·
Im not going to get in an argument, but I have also had both the drag Pak and oem in multiple bikes, and for me the drag Pak has outperformed oem in every bike.

Links may mean nothing to you, but when dozens and dozens of professional drag racers that do it for a living and have tried every possible combination of clutch and repeatedly back the dragpak, its probably because it simply works.
 
#23 ·
Well your going to have to get into an Argument on this one, again you give no specifics mostly because you don't know the Diff. what changes are different like I gave with the frictions your only going on others that most likely did other things like spring upgrades as well etc. ....go buy a NEW 1st Gen and put the same thing in and there will be no diff. or worse will fail by my findings period hard to contest that, the drag bike sites suck at info. only quick to praise and worse to give what other mods happened when it comes to the ZX10Rs. :wink:

.....bottom line I am a Moderator and getting tired of Members giving NON Sponsors praise and that Member that use to be a Sponsor coming on this site to promote the same thing or thanks to guys like you.....I like CC talked on the phone before with him but we are getting close if not over the top of Non Sponsor Infractions...so it's time to shut down the CC PAK on this site unless they become a sponsor.....I have no problem with saying this is better ect. , but when it becomes all racers are advertising then it becomes advertising for one that feels no need to advertise here because he has you guys doing it for him....I won't and gave my reasons I know in a stock bike it's not better just the same but is cheaper nothing else. :wink:


bloo
 
#24 ·
Nope I don't have to get into an argument about anything, the proof is in the pudding on this one. Drag Pak works, period end of story. I don't gain ANYTHING from promoting the drag pak, I'm here to simple inform people on what works.
 
#25 ·
See...that's what I am talking about...it works "period" "end of story" but can't give any details internally between the 2 only links unlike what I have in the past. :heyyou:....so for me I am here not only to "inform people" what works but also CC and others like you Codyc I will start to delete or ban threads that are advertising on this site...I don't think the owners of this site or Admin will have a problem with me confronting NON Sponsors on this site. :wink: Again, the OEM is the best if not touched in any other way...about 100 drag runs seen new bikes first time out or a few times later blow a clutch quick. :badteeth:

PS...should be running stock clutch Pak next time out. :mrgreen:


bloo
 
#29 ·
Seem like alot of arguing on an easy topic, besides the cc guy coming on an saying something i don't see too much free advertising!!! If I had a drag pak an thought I felt a difference I'd state my opinion also!!! I might b talking from my ass but when I ask a question on here I wanna read an hear opinions from all different kinds of riders no matter where it comes from! And unless those links are to a cc sponsored site what is the harm in putting it there!!! Seems some threads get bashed for no reason, and I thought the biggest improvement you can make to a 2,3 gen was the judder spring and not so much the plates?!?!? Also I'm curious to the mod can u post a link to ur responses to other thread on this topic! Don't feel like searching for the info u already stated. Id like to get the best info I can since I too am uninformed an buying a new clutch an want best possible!!!!! An if there the same besides price then they aren't the same lol just saying
 
#32 ·
They are not the same parts only inner frictions for 1st Gen the outside frictions you don't get those different pads, the steels are different too so not the same. :headshake:

You also don’t qualify to put your .02cents in when it comes to advertising on this site. This has been going on for awhile now certain members quick to advertise for CC who is no longer a sponsor on this site, hasn’t been in years but is on other sites he gets free advertising by many members really no need to become a sponsor if Moderators allow this to continue…..I will not allow it starting with this thread it will be cleaned up...if I can't clean it up good enough it will be moved off site.

bloo
 
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