Starting line procedures - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 8 Old 08-08-2018, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Starting line procedures

I have a question mainly for those who race and use a pro tree.
I’ve been using the full tree the last few years and constantly struggle with RT.
I either red light or my RT is slow.
I’m going to try using the pro light this weekend, so here’s my question.

Once you’re staged up and ready to go, what do you focus on with the tree?
Top light, middle light, bottom light, everything at once?

'08 10R, Lime/Black
Flashed ECU, PC5,WBC, custom shift light, shifter w/co2, side winder, BMC race, lowered, stretched,-2/+4, velocity stacks, little spray, nos mini.....
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post #2 of 8 Old 08-08-2018, 12:40 PM
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I never used the pro tree, but back when I used to drag race, I would stage as shallow as I could meaning I would pull forward just far enough to trigger the staged lights. Then I would focus on the very last yellow. I would launch when I saw the last yellow light up. If I anticipated it turning on at all, I would red light. When things were working correctly I was somewhat consistent in the .550 reaction time range.

I was only an amateur / hobbyist drag racer, and this is what worked for me.
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post #3 of 8 Old 08-08-2018, 02:42 PM
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Disclaimer - Ive never been to the 1/4 mile track but have been a avid fan of NHRA since i was about 16. Everything ive ever heard says to focus on that last light, gotta time it out and start leaving on the yellow, even if you red light a few times maybe youll get the timing down soon enough.
I know it sounds silly but im sure others do similar stuff. I'll practice hard launches if im clear at a 4 way stop or leaving a stop light at the head of the line. I only run it up to about 50 or so as soon as the clutch is out and i slow down. Some are good, sometimes i suck lol. I know a prepped track would be much different.
Focus on that last yellow my man!

Live Til You Die - QOTSA

We will all die but only a select few of us will ever truly live.

We all will feed the worms and tree's so dont be shy
- QOTSA
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post #4 of 8 Old 08-08-2018, 02:58 PM
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A pro tree on a stock clutch is hard work. Keep this in mind. If you stage shallow, it will help your ET, if you stage deep it will help with your RT. I stage shallow on a sportsman tree and stage deep on a pro tree.
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post #5 of 8 Old 08-12-2018, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for some info on deep stage vs shallow and changes in RT vs et.
I was all over the place with my RT this weekend. Need more practice I guess.

'08 10R, Lime/Black
Flashed ECU, PC5,WBC, custom shift light, shifter w/co2, side winder, BMC race, lowered, stretched,-2/+4, velocity stacks, little spray, nos mini.....
MORE TO COME
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post #6 of 8 Old 08-14-2018, 02:49 AM Thread Starter
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I talked to a few different racers over the weekend. 1 guy said he doesn't look at the tree just down track and sees yellow flash from his periphery. Another racer suggested I focus on the bottom yellow since i'm used to a sportsman tree anyway.
Either way, my RT's were atrocious.

'08 10R, Lime/Black
Flashed ECU, PC5,WBC, custom shift light, shifter w/co2, side winder, BMC race, lowered, stretched,-2/+4, velocity stacks, little spray, nos mini.....
MORE TO COME
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post #7 of 8 Old 08-22-2018, 03:46 PM
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Trying to cut a light on a pro tree with a hand clutch is damn tough. Especially once you are used to a sportsman tree. I have the same problem.
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-26-2018, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to give it a try this weekend and see what happens. I'll probably deep stage and try some different strategies for focus points on the light. I'm usually putting down some pretty decent 60's, even on the pro tree, so I've just got to figure out light timing to cut a good light. If the TNT is a wash and i'm not making myself happy on the line, i'll go back to sportsman tree for the rest of the weekend.

'08 10R, Lime/Black
Flashed ECU, PC5,WBC, custom shift light, shifter w/co2, side winder, BMC race, lowered, stretched,-2/+4, velocity stacks, little spray, nos mini.....
MORE TO COME
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