Gen 4: 2011-2015 Drag setup questions - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 27 Old 07-07-2014, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Drag setup questions

Ok so I am completely new to drag racing a bike. I have 11 total passes. 5 first night 6 the second. First time I went I got it to go a 10.98 at 140. Crap 2.0 60ft. Second time I went I got down to a 10.61 at 144 with same 2.0 60 ft but improved my 330. Im slowly learning to control the wheelie with the clutch. But I also swear I smelled clutch on a couple passes. My fastest pass I actually just shifted to second at about 10k when it was coming up on me, and then pinned second. Not sure if thats a good approach or not...? How fast do most amateurs run on stock height stock geared gen 4s roughly? Everyone I see who posts results are geared it seems like.

The setup on the bike was stock. Stock height and gearing. Has a flash and slip-on. I weigh about 195 with no gear. Well now I put on an adjustable rear link so I can drop it when I go to the track. I also got a strap kit for it too. My plan for the next trip is to drop the back about 2 inches maybe? And then strap the front down and see how it works out. I do not want to stretch the bike. I wanna run low 9s though, so I know gearing will be required for that.

So what do you guys who drag setup your sag at? Do I need to change the sag everytime I raise and lower the bike? I raise it back to stock height for street riding. Also what settings do you have on your shock and forks? As in how many clicks on the rebound and compression? I have never set a bikes suspension up honestly. I just kinda rode how it came because I was uninformed and nobody ever really told me any better. I personally dont know anyone who knows shit about bikes. But, It seemed to work ok for me, although Im sure It would be night and day difference on a well setup bike. Basically I need someone to give me a little tutorial on suspension setup. I think I know what all the adjusters do on the shock, just not where they need to be set. I do need to know what the different adjusters on the front forks are for, as in which one does what. Im sure I sound like a complete newb here, but everyones gotta start somewhere right?

Last edited by jgarst; 07-07-2014 at 02:43 PM.
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post #2 of 27 Old 07-07-2014, 04:51 PM
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The bike is going to be at a different pivot point when you lower it, so I think it might need some adjusting, but it could be a negligible difference.

Get the bike setup up for your weight in street trim since that's the most riding you do. Then just strap and lower it at the track. I think you might be splitting hairs by worrying about setting the sag with it lowered right now. Give it a shot and see how it goes :)

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post #3 of 27 Old 07-07-2014, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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I lowered it tonight. Went as low as I could without having to swap kickstands. Got the front pulled down pretty descent too. Took it for a little ride and I think this will get me into the 9s. I can launch it so much harder. Can't wait for wednesday! I guess I will worry about fine tuning it once I get my skill level up.
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post #4 of 27 Old 07-08-2014, 03:19 AM
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I went [email protected] with a -1+1 at stock height, then I did a -1+2, lowered the rear, pulled the forks through 1 inch and strapped the front. I went a [email protected], with a 1.85 60ft, with a better 60ft I should go a 9.6 ish...
You need to do the gearing, 1st is too long!
You can launch it so much harder but u just need to get your head around it. Also watch out in the breaking as you have no front travel left you could wash out your front.
Good luck!!
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post #5 of 27 Old 07-08-2014, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Yea I think gearing would help it get outta that flat spot down low. I think another trip I could have got it down past a 10.6 even with my stock gearing and height. Im gonna try it one time just lowered before I swap out the front sprocket. Thanks for the heads up on braking, I never thought about it like that. Will update Wednesday as long as it doesn't rain.
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post #6 of 27 Old 07-08-2014, 12:47 PM
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Watch your clutch the Gen 4 clutch will give out pretty quick with hard drag racing use. You might want to put heavier springs in to start to make it last longer.

Last edited by TechX; 07-08-2014 at 02:08 PM.
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post #7 of 27 Old 07-08-2014, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Yea Ryan Schnitz explained a lot to me yesterday. That dude knows his shit when it comes to drag racing. He is gonna help me get my bike to where its capable of reaching my goals and the bike is reliable. He said the same thing when I told him I thought I smelled clutch on a couple runs. All my money I saved for my full graves I am now spending on everything else. This weekend I plan to order some clutch springs and a 16t front sprocket and gen 3 shifter piece so I can swap to GP shift.
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post #8 of 27 Old 07-08-2014, 02:47 PM
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While set up is very important, practice is key. I went 9.75 with just -1 lowered and strapped. Needed a new clutch in no time. Now with a drag pak it's a completely different bike again. Can't get the clutch to regulate for shit, it's on or off. You got a big gap to the 9's just by lowering it and strapping. You will want to at least go -1 to save the clutch as long as possible. Mine was gone in 800 miles, and I mean gone.

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post #9 of 27 Old 07-08-2014, 04:34 PM
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With my 11" a 16 tooth front sprocket, full graves, reflashed Ecu, lowered 1 1/2" front and rear with the front end strapped. I couldn't even get close to full throttle in 1st or 2nd gear.
I am trying out stock gearing and it is faster by almost .2 ET and 4 mph just in the 1/8 mile. You have to beef up the clutch springs and let it cool down if possible between runs. The gen4 is the worst for dragracing so far of any generation zx10r.

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post #10 of 27 Old 07-09-2014, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Got it down to a 10.131 at 144.0. 1.81 60ft but didn't get first pinned out like I need to. I'm gonna go back again before I swap sprockets. I know I can get a 9, just ran outta time tonight. Got there late. Stock sprockets are killing me but I wanna make myself faster instead of throwing parts on it to bandaid a lack of skill. Also need a tire. The rear is on the wear strips, that can't be the greatest for grip.

Last edited by jgarst; 07-09-2014 at 10:48 PM.
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