Danger: parts on order - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 26 Old 11-18-2010, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Danger: parts on order

Placed the orders today ... I want to make something to play with on test and tune days but not so extreme to ruin it as a street bike, and it has to be legal, and I want to keep it all easily reversible. Turbo/nitrous are not happening.

Starting off with a stock bike, as far as performance goes, steering damper and PCIIIusb and 4 short velocity stacks, and the secondary butterflies are out, are the only things not bog standard.

Rider weighs too much (100 kg / 220 lbs)

On order:
quick shifter for the Power Commander
bolt on swingarm extensions (What should I set it to)
longer brake line
17/45 gearing with longer chain
lowering links (What should I set this to? Has to remain streetable ... an ill handling pig is not acceptable)
front strap kit

Already figured out how much the forks can be slid up in the triples before the bump stop potentially becomes the bottom of the upper fairing. I do not want that to happen. Looks like it can be lowered only about 10mm from stock height - no more. (remember ... has to remain streetable and safe) I'll do the rest with the strap so that it has acceptable bump travel for street.

Working on getting clearance to the rear fender - was all stock - found out that the steel bracket for the license plate has the same hole spacing as the stock license plate light, so I'm making use of that ... signals are staying and the license plate is going to remain lit and it's even going to have all of the required DOT marked reflectors, I don't want any excuses for the piggies to take it off the road.

Haven't decided if or what I'm going to do with the exhaust yet ... this has to remain a legal bike and around here that's starting to mean SAE J2825, the stock exhaust passes but with not much margin. Slip-on with the servo valve in the header staying there may be OK.

suggestions welcome ...


Helibars, MRA screen, Ohlins damper, reversed shift pattern, sorted suspension, braided lines, Michelin Pilot Power, all else stock 'coz it's fast enough!
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post #2 of 26 Old 11-18-2010, 10:28 PM
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I have mine lowered 2" front & rear, slid through the forks. I have NEVER had it bottom out on the street or track, you definitely should be able to go down more than 10mm.

I would suggest going 16 up front so you won't require such a monster on the back.

I think you find out real soon, that you either set it up for the twisties or the strip. If your anything like me half ass on either won't cut it. You will have to go all in on one or the other, luckily changes are easily reversed if you ever decide to. Have fun!

Best 1/4mi ET: 8.98 @ 147 (stock motor, no turbo/nitrous)
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post #3 of 26 Old 11-19-2010, 06:51 AM
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i have mine set at, on the ext. i have it all the way back i am at 63 in, the front fork tubes are slid throw 1 1/2 in and it will not bottom out, and the dog bones in the middle hole, with it that way i still ride a pass. my wife all the time and take the twisties good and with the strap up front for the track its right.
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post #4 of 26 Old 11-19-2010, 02:12 PM
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x2 on the 16t up front and go up a feeth in the back to make up for the rest of gearing. also you can slide the forks a inch or so in the front without screwing up anything and still be streetable, might wanna set the bolt in the 2nd hole on the lowering links if you ride the streets and a passagner to keep from bottoming out. good luck and keep us posted.

05 ZX-10R SWB.
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post #5 of 26 Old 11-19-2010, 06:25 PM
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Lowering and stretching it will make it handle just like you don't want it to. The furthest I would lower it in the front with a stock header is 1.5". I had a friend drop his too much and the back of the front fender rubbed through the radiator. Mine is lowered 3" in the rear and 1" in front and it handles like a bus.


I live my life a quarter-pounder at a time. And for those 500 calories or more, im free. I need FRIESSSS! Two of them. The big ones. Oh, and I need them tonight. You're lucky the double shot of BBQ sauce didnt blow a seam on your nugget box.
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post #6 of 26 Old 11-19-2010, 09:56 PM
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ahhhhhhhhhhhh hell, i can't wait to see the finished product.....subscribed!!

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Take a risk, and you may lose. Never risk, and you will always lose.


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post #7 of 26 Old 11-19-2010, 11:56 PM
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Is Toronto really getting that bad regarding aftermarket exhausts? When I grew up and lived in Aurora it wasn't bad at all. Even here around Ottawa they don't bother most people when it comes to exhausts. Nobody I know has had any problems with them.

On topic though. I can't wait to see how this turns out and subscribed! I've yet to install the quick shifter but have been contemplating it for months.
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post #8 of 26 Old 11-20-2010, 10:05 AM
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Oh and on the exhaust, I have a Leo Vince full system (on Gen. 1). It's pretty darn quiet but has a very nice tone. I don't have the extra little silencer in it either. They have them on ebay for cheap right now. It may be worth asking them if it will pass, especially since they now have a presence on the forum.

Best 1/4mi ET: 8.98 @ 147 (stock motor, no turbo/nitrous)
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post #9 of 26 Old 11-20-2010, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Caledon - the mostly rural municipality immediately north of where I live - has put a bylaw in effect that is based on SAE J2825 and the rumour is that other municipalities are going to follow. Hence, no nasty loud exhausts for me.

Anyway, I'm fully aware of the geometry effects of drastic lowering and huge wheelbase changes and I'm not going to do that. For a first try, whatever change in ride height I can get at the front without inviting front fender / fairing collisions I'll match at the back so that the rake/trail stay the same, and then see how it works. Lowering more in the rear than in the front will certainly screw up the handling - I have a roadracing background and I can detect differences of +/- 2mm in ride height from what it "should" be for neutral steering ...

The engineer in me can't resist doing some math. The center of gravity of the stock rider/bike combination is somewhere near 25 inches forward of the stock rear axle centerline. It's on the edge of doing a power wheelie at max acceleration now and I'm shortening the gearing about 10% so if one assumes 10% harder acceleration (that's also what's needed to get the 60-foot times from 1.9-something to 1.7-something ...) then it'll be the same level of "wheelie-prone" if the wheel is about 2.5 - 3 inches further back and ride height (i.e. center of gravity height) stays the SAME as stock. Anything beyond that would allow the clutch to be let out harder but it's also what is screwing up the handling. I think I'm going to take a first guess at +5 inches on the wheelbase. It can always be adjusted later ...

Stuff done so far

Picked up the quick shifter today, installed and wired it and activated it in the software. I run reverse shift pattern and the switch was rubbing on the kickstand return spring, a washer underneath the shift linkage pivot to move it out a couple millimeters fixed that. Also set my speedohealer to the right factor for the proposed gearing even though I don't have it yet. No test ride, too cold. Next step ... suspension disassembly.


Helibars, MRA screen, Ohlins damper, reversed shift pattern, sorted suspension, braided lines, Michelin Pilot Power, all else stock 'coz it's fast enough!
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post #10 of 26 Old 11-20-2010, 09:21 PM
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The other thing you could to help your 60' time and keep the front end down is to set the rear shock compression and rebound to soft so the bike squats on launch. This is only for swb. If you're stretched you want them hard.


I live my life a quarter-pounder at a time. And for those 500 calories or more, im free. I need FRIESSSS! Two of them. The big ones. Oh, and I need them tonight. You're lucky the double shot of BBQ sauce didnt blow a seam on your nugget box.
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