Track bike build
After spending several hours of reading other build threads with full of eye candy stuff, I decided to start writing my own. :welcome:
Actually the build was started several months ago, at the end of the previous season, when I crashed my road bike in Slovakia while I was riding with a friend. Unfortunately the bike was damaged in a way that I was unable to ride it home, so we were waiting like 3 hours for a friend to come and pick me up. :loser:
Previously I was using a Gen1 ZX-10R on track, and had this bike for occasional street riding. After the crash happened, the decision was made to quit riding on public roads (for now ...) and focus only on track days. So this was the point when I started to build my Gen3 for the next season. Still, there are a lot of work to do (and document) - and a lot of money to be spent - before the first track day is coming.
This is what the bike was looking right after the crash.
Once I get home and had some time, started to take the bike apart. Of course, all the original fairings were destroyed. The bike was laid down on its right side, but the top fairing bracket was hit in a way that it also cracked the left fairings. The extension of the rear subframe was also broken, and there were some marks on the right side engine cover. Other than those, no expensive damage happened, I was lucky enough because the right side foot peg and the handlebar saved a lot for me.
Sad but at the same time exciting, sad because your giving up road riding but this is understandable and exciting because your building a track bike 😎
The next step was to bring the bike to the guy who built the engine of my previous track bike as well. Last time the same amount of engine work took around 5-6 months during the winter (whew, the guy is really busy!), so I wanted to get it started as soon as possible, to finish the engine before the season starts.
We dropped the engine in half an hour, and I came home with the rest, so I will have plenty of time to work on track fairings, wiring loom, etc. Looks perfect, weight saving level 99! :thumbsup:
The plan is to refresh the engine, as the bike had around 24.000 street kilometers, just to be on the safe side, so hopefully there will be no problems during the season in this regard. This includes inspection of all the engine components (clutch, transmission, etc.), all new bearings, gaskets, and so on. Of course, while the engine is in tiny little pieces, it is the right time to do some extra work and get some more ponies. To make the bike a little faster, the following mechanical changes are currently in progress:
- full head work with flow matching and reworked valve seats,
- Kawasaki thin head gasket (I found a guy in Europe who has an old stock of all the race gaskets from 0.45mm to 0.60mm :stir:),
- new camshafts from Kent Cams (part number: KAW32).
To support these modifications on the electronics side, I was lucky enough to get my hands on a Kawasaki race ECU and the corresponding wiring harness (a full harness, not just an adapter to the original one). This way I will be able to throw out useless stuff from the bike, like the exhaust servo, O2 sensors, ignition key and such, while having more control over the ECU and fancy new features (pit limiter, etc.). Woohoo!
The bike already had a Power Commander V and a Secondary Fuel module before, that I plan to keep. A good friend of mine is running a DynoJet shop, so the plan is to have the bike tuned there once everything is back together. Tuning the PC seems to be much easier (and automatic) than trying to set the right fueling through the race ECU by hand. Also planning to set the fueling separately for each cylinder, but the race ECU has no support for this, so it will be done by having 4 different maps in the PCV.
The kit harness I got is a used one, of course, so I started to tear it down and check all the wires and connectors.
At last, a thread with some interesting content, subscribed :smile2:
Post up any parts you may need i have shed fulls of G3 gear in Antwerp. Kent 32's work well in that motor are they re-grinds? The guy has a stock of G3 kit head gaskets :surprise: I haven't heard of those for a few years .............. how much?? Iv been modding the cometic 0.45 gaskets to suit but a genuine 0.45 kit gasket would be nice :grin2:
giszo you are the man, no i do not need immediately a 0.45 but hell yes i want two to keep for the near future im messaging you now :wink2:
Steering damper. The OEM Ohlins damper is a shiny piece of shit, at most. Even at the hardest setting, it is still way too soft to deal with some track riding. So the damper immediately went to the suspension shop to do some valving on it to make it work like it should.
As far as the front and rear suspension goes, when I got the bike it had all the original suspension parts. Even riding it on the street, I noticed that the front of the bike is stiff like hell, while the rear suspension is too soft to my weight. It was more or less acceptable for a long time, because I was not riding the bike as I should have been.
Still being a road bike, I found a used Ohlins TTX for an unbeatable price, so without much hesitation and after robbing the nearest ATM, I went home with the TTX. :biggrin:
Swapped the OEM shock with the TTX (I clearly remember that even I had to remove the exhaust can and that big box next to it to be able to pull out the rear bolt holding the shock, because some japanese engineers were unable to put it in from the opposite side :bash:), and without measuring anything, it was much better already.
There is a nice Dave Moss video where he is trying to adjust the suspension of this bike for different people:
Before the engine was removed from the bike after the crash, with a friend of mine - who has a nice digital slack meter (https://motool.co/products/slacker-digital-sag-scale-v2) - we did some measurements on the suspension, that should have been done much sooner. While I always felt the front suspension too stiff, by adjusting the preload there, the static and rider sag values were within the acceptable range, so far, so good. Doing the same measurements on the rear of the bike gave us more interesting values. The TTX I purchased earlier already had a 95 spring in it (according to the docs, the original one is 90), and by turning the hydraulic preload adjuster all the way in, rider sag was still too much. Okay, I was not that surprised at all...
After having all of these information, both the front and rear suspension came out of the bike and went to the same shop for some work. The first step to make the bike more track capable was the following:
- keep the front suspension as-is with a slightly lower oil level to potentially compensate the stiffness,
- change the spring of the TTX to a 105, and measure again once everything is back together.
Of course while every suspension part is out of the bike, the usual maintenance is also performed on all of them, like changing oil, seals, etc.
I will see how it performs at the first few track days, and further changes may come based on the results.
Yeah, and a picture to close the post... I had to remove somehow the rear shock, and had no better tool at home. :badteeth:
You're right about the stock suspension, it's way out of sync. A good tip I had from K-Tech was actually to lower the rear by removing the stock spacer. Be interesting to see how you get on :smile2:
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