Gen 5: 2016- New zx10r owner woolich tuning - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 10 Old 07-23-2019, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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New zx10r owner woolich tuning

Hi all, pretty new to the forums, thanks for having me! Just installed my woolich logbox and laid down my first map amd tuning. Was a shared map until I can get my wideband set up for self tuning. Have a couple questions if anyone knows. The intake flap, I heard you can set the rpms for 600 low and 800 high to keep it open, but do I have to do anything with the throttle percentage too? And does the exhaust flap disable , disable the engine code for removing the servo? Any input or tips of any kind greatly appreciated. I cant test it til morning, I just got it hooked up and mapped . Was a bit of a struggle but the woolich guys are amazing. I highly recommend them amd their gear!
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post #2 of 10 Old 07-23-2019, 07:17 AM
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I'll chime in before someone else decided to tell you to use the search function, which I will do for them just as a matter of course. At least try and check it out on woolich forums and search here as most has been answered. Ok that's out of the way lol, So yes, disabling anything in the woolich software essentially just disabled the bike throwing a code and or looking for or functioning with it. Disable the O2 sensor, the exhaust valves and the intake flap, remove your windshield, the left upper side fairing and the nose fairing and cut and clamp or remove the hoses going to the intake flap/ram air flap, you can also completely remove the ram air flap but it isn't necessarily a must, just saves some weight and allows a tad more air. The exhaust valve, pull the thing under the seat, disconnect the two cables that go into the pully ontop of the servo motor, pull the entire servo and tuck the plugs up and out of the way, all the smog and emmision crap is pretty much up under the upper right nose fairing area, it as in the lines and brackets and charcoal canister and all that can come out, if you have lines going back to stuff shove a bolt in the hose or clamp it off as long as it isn't a tank breather or overflow line., change the air filter after doing the block off plates, get rid of the huge cat and exhaust valve with a cat delete, check the box for disable decel fuel cut, it will help with the overall hyper jerky feeling of the throttle and make it much more easy to deliver power to the road without you feeling like your getting whiplash or destroying your chain. drop the fan temp and raise the idle, raise the rev limiter, enable auto blip if your bike is 16-18 and not an RR or SE, I know this is more than what you asked but I'm trying to sum up a bunch of stuff already said. any more questions ask away, message me or on here. Also maybe I missed it but what year and what mods have you done?
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post #3 of 10 Old 07-23-2019, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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I'll chime in before someone else decided to tell you to use the search function, which I will do for them just as a matter of course. At least try and check it out on woolich forums and search here as most has been answered. Ok that's out of the way lol, So yes, disabling anything in the woolich software essentially just disabled the bike throwing a code and or looking for or functioning with it. Disable the O2 sensor, the exhaust valves and the intake flap, remove your windshield, the left upper side fairing and the nose fairing and cut and clamp or remove the hoses going to the intake flap/ram air flap, you can also completely remove the ram air flap but it isn't necessarily a must, just saves some weight and allows a tad more air. The exhaust valve, pull the thing under the seat, disconnect the two cables that go into the pully ontop of the servo motor, pull the entire servo and tuck the plugs up and out of the way, all the smog and emmision crap is pretty much up under the upper right nose fairing area, it as in the lines and brackets and charcoal canister and all that can come out, if you have lines going back to stuff shove a bolt in the hose or clamp it off as long as it isn't a tank breather or overflow line., change the air filter after doing the block off plates, get rid of the huge cat and exhaust valve with a cat delete, check the box for disable decel fuel cut, it will help with the overall hyper jerky feeling of the throttle and make it much more easy to deliver power to the road without you feeling like your getting whiplash or destroying your chain. drop the fan temp and raise the idle, raise the rev limiter, enable auto blip if your bike is 16-18 and not an RR or SE, I know this is more than what you asked but I'm trying to sum up a bunch of stuff already said. any more questions ask away, message me or on here. Also maybe I missed it but what year and what mods have you done?
thanks for the info man. I've actually been all over these forums searching my but off, that's how I've gotten this far. Haha. It's a 16 with a graves slip on and cat delete. That's it so far other than cosmetic stuff. So change the filter huh? BMC? Or what's a good one that wont break the bank? I'll look into the things you said when I do the block off plates. In tje software I set tje intake flap to just stay open, is that the ram air flap you're talking about?
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-23-2019, 05:30 PM
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I figured you had already searched, there is a ton of info but most is for last gen bikes and the stuff for ours is not as thoroughly detailed. There are just a few people who have answered so many times I think they have become a tad jaded. Anyhow, yeah the intake flap is the ram air flap, you can just disable it and it will stay open I believe but it's best to go in and cut and clamp the line at least if you don't or are otherwise unsure about how to remove it. Amazon has the K&N air filter, get the street version not the race one and break the bank is subjective. It's 60 bucks, but you won't ever have to buy another air filter, it is simple to clean and the recharge kit will last you for years so drop 60 get the filter and don't worry about it till it's seen enough miles to need to clean it. take it out, clean it and buy the recharge kit, it's about the price of an air filter anyway, then never for as long as you have this bike worry about spending more money on air filters. I have a flo oil filter that is a permanent billet oil filter, filters better than most paper filters and since I change oil every 2k miles and run motul 7100 the ability to save on a filter or not have to find one is well worth it to me. The air filter will just help with the bike getting air in as will keeping the ram air flap open. complements the cat delete and the exhaust flap removal and pipe, it all helps with sound and power even if it is super small, it adds up. The block off plates can be avoided if you want to cut and plug the lines but that's adding weight vs removing weight again not a big deal with the amount of power this bike puts down. And you could try the Austin racing map, I love it, just before you actually flash it, load it up and then jump back and forth between your map and that one and copy and paste your stock map portion up to 2500 rpm. it will save the bike from not catching on throttle cut and so you shouldn't need to worry about a stall. I liked it cause it was based of 91 pump and had the same basic mods even though not the same brands. it gave me a decent baseline to work with and I dug the pull it gave me. milage may vary..again anything else let me know or just ask on here
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-24-2019, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info! I did tje block offs today. What a pia to get those inside screws, but got'r did! I'll grap an air filter, thanks! 60 isnt bad. Just saw some bmc for like 160ish. Didnt want to do that. Found a map with a graves like mine so I put it on there, man she pulls hard. I finally let it rip in first and wow. Tomorrow I install my zt3 and wideband 02 sensor. Ready for some auto tuning. :)
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post #6 of 10 Old 07-25-2019, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by twistedmistersartz View Post
Thanks for the info! I did tje block offs today. What a pia to get those inside screws, but got'r did! I'll grap an air filter, thanks! 60 isnt bad. Just saw some bmc for like 160ish. Didnt want to do that. Found a map with a graves like mine so I put it on there, man she pulls hard. I finally let it rip in first and wow. Tomorrow I install my zt3 and wideband 02 sensor. Ready for some auto tuning. :)
not sure if it will work for you but this is supposed to be my map that has been tuned to get as much as possible out of my 2018 KRT. it screams. Let me know if the link doesn't work
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1c...w?usp=drivesdk
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post #7 of 10 Old 07-29-2019, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by twistedmistersartz View Post
Thanks for the info! I did tje block offs today. What a pia to get those inside screws, but got'r did! I'll grap an air filter, thanks! 60 isnt bad. Just saw some bmc for like 160ish. Didnt want to do that. Found a map with a graves like mine so I put it on there, man she pulls hard. I finally let it rip in first and wow. Tomorrow I install my zt3 and wideband 02 sensor. Ready for some auto tuning. :)
are you running it with the ktrac disabled? wanna feel some stupid pull and what kind of crazy power the bike can put down? Hold the up button for about 1 second after you turn the key on and or after you start the bike. just be careful not to loop the damn thing lol. she likes to stand up on any serious twist of the wrist
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post #8 of 10 Old 07-31-2019, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by twistedmistersartz View Post
Thanks for the info! I did tje block offs today. What a pia to get those inside screws, but got'r did! I'll grap an air filter, thanks! 60 isnt bad. Just saw some bmc for like 160ish. Didnt want to do that. Found a map with a graves like mine so I put it on there, man she pulls hard. I finally let it rip in first and wow. Tomorrow I install my zt3 and wideband 02 sensor. Ready for some auto tuning. :)
are you running it with the ktrac disabled? wanna feel some stupid pull and what kind of crazy power the bike can put down? Hold the up button for about 1 second after you turn the key on and or after you start the bike. just be careful not to loop the damn thing lol. she likes to stand up on any serious twist of the wrist
yeah I ha met got the pair to do that yet. Still trying to get a feel. Haha
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post #9 of 10 Old 07-31-2019, 09:43 PM
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thought you said your did the block offs, maybe I'm confused as that does happen more since my wreck but I thought the pair valves were what the block offs replaced. Or is that not what you were saying. was a tad confusing but again that could just be me
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post #10 of 10 Old 08-06-2019, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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thought you said your did the block offs, maybe I'm confused as that does happen more since my wreck but I thought the pair valves were what the block offs replaced. Or is that not what you were saying. was a tad confusing but again that could just be me
I did the block off plates. I meant I didnt have the cojones to turn the tc off. I have of late. Its gnarly
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