New black ZX10R '06 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 25 Old 05-28-2006, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
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New black ZX10R '06

Looking forward to reading and sharing. She's brand new and I'm just about to run her in... I've had lots of advice on that varying from "do it by book" to "scrub the brakes/tyres and then thrash it". Any thoughts ?
History of bikes: C90 ( - it was my parents, honest), CB125, CX500, ZZR600, GSXR750, VFR800, ZX9R and now the black beast.
Cheers
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post #2 of 25 Old 05-28-2006, 05:55 AM
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04 Green ZX-10R, Evo II Header, Evo Canister, PCIIIUSB, BMC Race Filter, Vortex adj. Rearsets, Scorpio Alarm, Scotts Damper, Ivan's TRE, Ivan PCIII USB Map, Ivan's Kleen Block-Offs, Clear Alternatives Flush Mounts, Puig Double Bubble, Mirror Blocks, Sho-gun sliders, 1/5 throttle, Hot bodies fender eliminator, Goodridge SS lines, pazzo shorties and exhuast hanger.
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post #3 of 25 Old 05-28-2006, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourmonks
Looking forward to reading and sharing. She's brand new and I'm just about to run her in... I've had lots of advice on that varying from "do it by book" to "scrub the brakes/tyres and then thrash it". Any thoughts ?
History of bikes: C90 ( - it was my parents, honest), CB125, CX500, ZZR600, GSXR750, VFR800, ZX9R and now the black beast.
Cheers
Welcome

The topic of break in is never agreed on.
Never fails that someone will say "Are you a motorcycle engineer? No, then listen to the experts and follwo the manual.

I have read a lot about this a listened to many opinions.

My experience.

I did it by the book on a 99 Hayabusa and an 03 Gixxer. Both bikes were trouble free but pulled relatively low numbers on the Dyno. Relatively low compared to others on the same dyno that is, but still strong motors.

My ZX 10 06, I broke in much quicker and harder.
This what I did this time
Always make sure you Let it warm up!

I started doing pulls up to about 8,000rpm letting the motor breaking oull the engine speed back down. Never letting the engine sit at the same rpm for very long. Just loading and unloading the valves.
At 100 miles - Fresh oil and filter

For the next 200 miles I increased the rpms hitting red line a couple times, always letting the motor slow the bike back down.
At 300 Miles Fresh oil again

600 Miles the check up and oil change at my local shop.

Done with the break-in
However for the next 1000 miles still very careful with warm up, and still taking some opportunities to load and unload the valves.

The next decision is how long to wait for full synthetic. I did mine at 1200, most say that is too soon.

Check out the search button for more opinions on both subjects.

This bike has the strongest motor I have ever owned. May not have anything to do with the break in, we'll never know.

No way will you get a consensus on this topic, so at the end of the day it's your bike and your decision.

Good luck
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post #4 of 25 Old 05-28-2006, 07:10 AM
 
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Like you I've heard both schools of thought. Personally I'd go by the manual.
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post #5 of 25 Old 05-28-2006, 01:01 PM
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and enjoy!

"Dum Spiro Spero"
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"An it Harm None, Do What Ye Will"
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post #6 of 25 Old 05-28-2006, 04:18 PM
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Give it hell. We break in nicosil cylinders on nextel cup motors for about 30 minutes and they are seated.

He who dies with the most toys wins!
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post #7 of 25 Old 05-28-2006, 04:33 PM
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There ya go
Already different opinions..

MadKaws is more fun for sure....

Most important thing I forgot to mention. Be careful, it's a handful of motorcycle
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post #8 of 25 Old 05-28-2006, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sewman
There ya go
Already different opinions..

MadKaws is more fun for sure....

Most important thing I forgot to mention. Be careful, it's a handful of motorcycle
I think getting used to the bike is most important.

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post #9 of 25 Old 05-28-2006, 05:55 PM
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and i would use the 2nd method of break NOT the factory recommendation
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post #10 of 25 Old 05-28-2006, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madkaw
I think getting used to the bike is most important.
Yes, that is what I meant to say... becareful it's a strong motorcycle for sure...
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