Stay the F away from the power commander. Ancient technology. These bikes (and most bikes released here in the US from hereon out) are limited in the ECU by timing, secondaries or throttle maps. So if you fit a PCV you're not doing anything about those restrictions.
Go with the Woolich Racing box which I sell. It lets you remove the restrictions from the ECU (freeing up 20-30HP depending on the dyno) and you don't have to rip apart your bike to send out the ECU each time it needs to be updated racking up down time and shipping costs... in addition it will let you add things to the bike like removing the fuel cut, removing the exhaust servo motor in conjunction to tuning the bike.
You can also go with our autotune version which will help you forgo the dyno and tune the bike as you ride it. We also have our race tools available that add in quickshifter, launch control and pit limiter. You also get a Forum Discount when ordering from me plus I can set you up with a solid base tune ;)
Exhaust, anything decat works and I suggest the likes of Graves, M4 and Yoshi; personally I'd stay away from Two Bros (cheap) and Austin Racing (way too pricey for what you get). Some people (like myself) like the increased midrange and opted for a full exhaust (Graves full ti is what I run). Everyone has their opinion on the full exhausts, but me personally after dealing with the slip ons and moving into a full, I couldn't go back to a slip on.
Sprockets, most people get by with a -1 up front or +2 in the back. I personally run -1/+2 since I don't need to take the bike north of 175 much and will regear it if I'm on a track with a longer straight where I'd use it.
Case savers are always a good idea... BG Racing, Kawi OEM, Yoshi (I have these)...
Tires... ditch the Kawi spec BT-016s and move into a Power 3 or Q3 if you're after a tire that will work on the street and track. Never was a fan of the Kawi spec or the factory spec BT-016s after trying a set of each.
Rifleman throttle insert... helps shorten up the throttle throw to get to WOT. Instead of having to twist 90* to crack it open it's something like 72* after the insert.
Filters, you won't see much gain other than a fatter wallet with the likes of K&N, BMC, Pipercross. They all flow roughly the same and won't net you more than 1-2HP at the wheels. They are nice simply because you can clean and reuse some of them and not have to purchase a new paper element filter every time. If you're after power, be prepared to spend money for a MWR HE ($180) or MWR SBK filter ($230). These filters absolutely, no bones about it, need to be tuned for. You can't slap them and expect gains.
Other than that just the normal stuff, have the bike suspension set for your weight and if you're over 175-180 lbs, you may want to look into a new rear shock as the stocker is rather soft and needs some help.