R&G frame slider install with laser line level - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 3 Old 01-24-2007, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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R&G frame slider install with laser line level

I tried to submit this in the "How to" section. but I didn't have the option to do it. Maybe a moderator will help.

Materials Required: R&G frame slider kit, drill, 1 inch (25 millimeter) core bit, laser line level-$6-20 at Wal-Mart of Home Depot, grease pencil or similar for marking fairing, small drill bits, 10mm socket, ratchet, extension, and a socket to fit the frame bolt.

Optional: Dremel, beer.

I will be explaining a R&G frame slider kit install using a laser leveler. You can use this method with any cut type sliders. I feel this method to be more accurate and maybe even easier than the Play-Do method, or the paint on the inside of the fairing method.

1. Begin by removing the middle and lower fairings. If you can figure out a way to remove the middle without taking off the lower, Kudos to you. Be sure to sue rags or towels to protect the fairings when taking them off or placing them on the floor. You will be pissed if you scratch your $350 pieces of plastic.

2. The R&G "crash protectors" kit comes with a new water bottle for the left side. The slider spacer will go through this hole. With a little creativity, you can remove the old bottle and mount the new one without spilling any coolant. Be sure to fill the new mounted bottle up with the old coolant. No need to buy new coolant. Be sure to take the rubber grommets out of the old water bottle holes and fit them in the new. If you forget, you could overtighten the two screws, breaking one. Then you will be pissed, like I was.

Before mounting the bottle, you will notice that R&G has provided you with two spacers. A male spacer, and a female spacer. The R&G directions do not specify which one goes where. You may be able to figure this out. I used the male spacer on the left side, and no spacer on the right. The slider on the right touches the frame directly. If you use the spacer and the bolt they provided, the slider will never tighten up. I went out and bought a bolt length that I needed, and it works perfectly. Now mount the bottle.

3. Now you will need to mark the point on the fairing to cut. This is where the laser level comes in. Spend a few minutes playing with the laser, shining it on the walls, or making your cat or dog run in circles. Next, take out the bolt in the frame where the new bolts will go. You need to build out of boxes, or whatever suitible crap you have lying around, a stable platform to put the laser level on so that it shines perfectly in the bolt hole. Wal-mart has a line level for $6 that has cross hairs on it. This is the level I used.

It will take a few minutes and some shims to make the level shine in the hole perfectly so that it is actually level. You will want to do this a few feet away from the bike so that you have room to put the upper back on.

Now that you have the level shining perfectly in the hole, re-fit the middle fairing. You can do this without re-fiiting the lower. Be careful not to touch the level. You will be pissed if you do. Now that the fairing is on, you can see where the level is shining on the fairing. Mark this with your grease pencil. Do not use something that you cannot get off. You will be pissed.

4. Now that you have your mark, place the fairing on a suitable box and carefully drill a small hole (pilot hole). Now drill a slightly larger one. You want to make it so that the 1 inch corebits starter will comortably fit in the hole. Now carefully drill so that the core bit touches the fairing. Drill slowly and deliberately all the while maitaing constant pressure keeping the drill level. If you do not do this right, you will be more pissed off than you will be for the rest of the week. So will your wallet.

5. Now you have a perfectly drilled hole courtesy of you and your high tech laser line level. You will need to de-burr it. Take a sharp knife or your fingernail and carefully remove the shavings. Re-fit the fairing, and put the slider in the hole. If it is too tight, you can use a dremel and a sanding bit to lightly file a small amount off the interior of the hole.

Insert the bolt and tighten. Do not tighten too tight, nothing beyond 40NM. Just make it snug. Damage could occur, and you will be pissed. That finishes the left side.

Have a look at the right side, and you will see what I mean about the spacer and bolt being to long. A shorter bolt and no spacer seems to be the way to go.

6. Re-fit everything and open a beer. Sit back and admire your new sliders. Know that if you miss your kickstand, or you ever fall over at a traffic light, you will only feel stupid, not pissed.

Last edited by YSR50; 03-25-2007 at 02:18 AM.
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post #2 of 3 Old 01-24-2007, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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More pics of them on the bike soon. It was raining outside.

Last edited by YSR50; 03-25-2007 at 02:19 AM.
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post #3 of 3 Old 03-25-2007, 02:22 AM
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