Installing a Dynojet Quickshifter module. - Kawasaki
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post #1 of 3 Old 08-19-2005, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Installing a Dynojet Quickshifter module.

If full throttle clutchless upshifts are what you are after then this is the mod for you.

Summary of install:
I started with the bike on the rear stand for stability. You will need to gain access to your pc3, remove your rear seat, front seat, and the left side panel (under the seat) to begin.
We will be swapping out the stock shift rod for the rod and sensor that dynojet provides for this application. The wires need to be routed back to the pc3 to complete the installation.

Tools needed:
You will need a 4mm allen head for the fasteners on the tailsection (behind the front seat with the cowl removed) and for the left side panel.
A 6mm allen for removing the foot shifter from the rearsets.
A 10 mm socket will be used for removing the seat.
A open ended 10mm will be used for the shift rod.

1.)Ok as I stated above you need to first remove the rear seat (or cowl) and then the trim piece that rests between the front and rear seats. (two fasteners 4mm allen) With that piece removed the next step is removing the front seat. the bolt is located under the tail piece we just removed. The bolt is a 10mm.

After the seat is removed you will need the 4mm allen to remove the fastener from the side panel. With that removed you can pull the side panel off the bike.

2.)Next up is the removal of the stock shift rod..This is a good time to take a picture of where your shifter is currently adjusted. As with all shift rods one side of the rod is reverse threaded so as you use your 10mm open end to remove make sure you are loosening and not further tightening. remove the nuts from the stock shift rod you will be using them.
3.)Now we can get out the quickshifter and the new shift rod. First off install the locknuts from your stock shift shaft onto the new rod. I assembled the quickshifter onto the FOOT SHIFTER side of the linkage(rearset side). I removed the foot shifter assembly at this point(6mm allen) to make it easier to spin the quickshifter into the heim joint located at the foot shifter. after that was installed I removed the bolt that holds on the shifter linkage at the motor (10mm) and moved it forward 2 splines. I left the bolt out for now. I then installed the new shift rod, one end into the motor side of the linkage and the other side into the quickshifter. I then reinstalled the foot shifter assembly and checked the foot shifter for adjustment. After I had the shifter where i wanted it, I reinstalled the bolt on the shift linkage on the motor and snugged down all THREE of the locknuts that hold on the shift rod and quickshifter assembly.

4.)Ok now that the quickshifter is installed on the bike its time to route the wiring. I ran the wiring harness up behind the frame entering between the sprocket cover and the frame. I then fished the wiring harness through and routed the wires alongside the existing pc3 wiring harness. I then plugged in the quickshifter module and used a few wire-ties to tidy things up.

5.)Now it's time to reinstall the parts we removed to gain access for the install. In reverse order reinstall the side cover, the front seat, the tailpiece and lastly the rear seat or cowl.
6.) now all that has to be done is the settings for your application. by installing the quickshifter program it will reconize the pc3 when it is connected and then the settings for the quickshifter can be accessed through the pc3 program on your pc. the variables that you can adjust are: the rpm the quickshifter become active and how long the kill time is adjusted for. I used 9000 rpm and the default of 65milliseconds to start with.

now i'm off to go bang some gears as you should be as well!!
Good luck.

05 lime green. Sato slip-on, pc3usb, bmc race filter.
"when ya lose site of why ya ride then you've lost what really matters"---THE MOTORHEAD
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post #2 of 3 Old 08-22-2005, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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After messing with the setting for the quickshifter a little I settled on 11,700 for activation rpm and 80ms for the shifting.
when the activation was set at 9000 I had bumped the shifter slightly with my foot and although it wasn't enough to shift the bike is was enough to make the engine kill for a split second. I have to kinda relearn to keep my foot all of the way off the shifter til I'm ready to shift the bike. I always kinda would preload the shifter before.

05 lime green. Sato slip-on, pc3usb, bmc race filter.
"when ya lose site of why ya ride then you've lost what really matters"---THE MOTORHEAD
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post #3 of 3 Old 08-23-2005, 09:18 AM
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