Ok, starting with the rear seat/solo cowl off, remove the panel behind the rider's seat to get access to the bolt that holds the rider seat on. Remove the two bolts circled in yellow in this pic and gently pull the panel toward the back of the bike. It just slides under the seat. Nothing else is holding it in there.
Remove the top center panel that sits at the back of the seat cowl. Remove the two bolts circled in yellow in this pic and gently pull toward the front of the bike and up. It has two tabs that go into grooves and a piece of velcro that holds it to the taillight housing.
Remove the rider seat. It is fastened down by a single bolt directly behind the center of the back edge of the seat. It's a 10mm bolt. Remove the bolt, which is circled in yellow in this pic, then pull the back of the seat straight up and toward the back of the bike. The front of the seat is held down by a tab on the front of the seat base. It just pulls out of the tank bracket.
Remove the metal brackets that brace the tail section to make removing the tial section easier. You can work it around them but it takes some bending and maneuvering of the tail section and increases your risk of cracking or scratching the tail section. Removing it is cake with these brackets removed and it's easier to remove them than to try and work around them... so just remove the damned things already.
Also remove the seat/cowl latch assembly at this point (ONLY if you're going to remove the whole tail section
). Remove the two bolts (10mm) and the two latch screws (phillips head screws) circled in yellow in this pic. Take the brackets out and put them up. Unhook the latch from the cable and put it to the side as well. Leave the cable hooked to the tail section on the other end.
Some of you will probably notice that the seat/cowl latch is on backwards in this pic. I messed up and removed it before I took a pic for this step so I stuck it back on to take a shot. Unfortunately I stuck it on backwards. Anyway, the point of the pic is to show you which bolts/screws to remove so it serves the purpose. I took a replacement shot during reassembly but it didn't take and I've got a killer headache so I wasn't going to tear back into it. I'll tyr to get a good shot and fix this later...
Remove the two bolts that hold the front end of the tail section to the subframe at the front. Yep, they're circled in yellow in this pic.
*** At this point if you're using something like Gregg's block offs you wouldn't need to completely remove the tail section. Simply pull it back a few inches so that you can get a small "L" shaped allen wrench to the three bolts that hold the tail light assembly in. I took mine all the way off with plans of filling all the holes in the undertail and painting it... and so I could get a pic of the three tail light bolts for you all. ***
Now it's time to unplug all the tail/brake light, turn signal, and tag light connectors. Everything except the tail/brake light plug is in a rubber boot. Pull the boot off of the wires and simply unplug the connectors. All the connections that have to be unplugged are in the area circled in yellow in this pic. There is also a little plastic wire retaining loop that holds the undertail harness to the floor of the trunk. It's just a little plastic loop with a push in clip. Grab it at the push in clip and gently pull it out of the trunk floor.
With all the wiring connections unhooked and the wire harness retaining loop pulled loose you're ready to remove that unsightly stock fender/signal/tag bracket assembly. It is held on by the two nuts and two bolts (all 10mm) circled in yellow below. Hang onto the fender assembly when you remove the last bolt or nut because it could fall out if you don't. Once the bolts and nuts are out/off you simply pull the fender assembly down as you work the wiring harness through the hole in the trunk floor.
Now you're ready to remove the tail section. It's as simple as gently pulling it rearward, keeping it in line with the subframe angle as you go, and working the tail section sides and top edges around any obstructions.
With the tail section off, removing the light housing is easy. It is held on by three bolts (4mm allen head). Remove the bolts and work the light housing out of the tail section.
With the tail section gone this is what your 10 looks like. It's even sexy without bodywork!
The Clear Alternatives integrated light assembly is a direct replacement for the factory brake/tail light. You have to take the metal bushings and rubber grommets out of the mounting tabs on the stock light and use them on the CA assembly. It attaches to the tail section via the same three bolts as in the second pic up from this paragraph. Once you've got it secured to the tail, slide the tail back on but leave it rearward a few inches to allow room to connect the wiring. The CA kit comes with some pinch splice connectors (the red connectors in the pic below) that splices the integrated turn signal lines into the stock turn signal wires. Slide the stock wire into the side with the split and push the yellow wires that come out of the CA assembly into the other side from the open end of the splicer. Green stock wire is the left signal, grey is the right... The stock brake/tail light connector plugs into the CA assembly just like it would the stock assembly.
With the wiring connections made, put all the connectors into the factory rubber sleeve and fit them between the light assembly and the rear of the subframe. Then work the tail section fully into place. Here's a pic with the wiring tucked away and the tail in place.
From here on out it's as simple as reversing the first five photos and reinstalling all the bolts and brackets that hold the tail section on. I ended up busting my tail section so I didn't go through with shaving and smoothing it. I didn't bust it doing the install... I had put it in my living room so it didn't get messed up on the concrete floor in my garage. This morning I was stumbling around in the dark leaving for work and stepped on the farkin' thing. Busted the shit out of it. I've ogt it glued back together until I can do something else with it, but I'm not going to waste prep and paint on this one. Looks like I may be going with a one piece race tail after all.
Fwiw, I only had one complaint about the CA assembly. The velcro that CA put on the light housing was not lined up for the factory piece that is on the bottom of the rear center section behind the hump. I had to put a piece of velcro that I had (luckily) behind the CA piece so that the filler panel would stick down like it's supposed to. Without the added velcro strip the filler panel floated loose at the back. Minor, but still a gripe I guess. The red oval in this pic shows where I had to add velcro.
And now for a few pics with the CA assembly installed and the fender/signals removed. Much better!!!
I'll get some better ones tomorrow in the sunlight... if the sun comes out.
The fit is great. Very happy with the look and the fit.
Not the best pic to show off how it looks on, but not the worst I've seen either...
In this one I sort of caught the left turn signal flashing. Tough to time a shot just right to catch the flash properly, especially since I chose to stay with the fast flash pattern instead of using the resistors included with the kit. I think the faster flash rate should draw more attention...