Akrapovic slip-on how-to w/pics... - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 2 Old 10-08-2005, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Akrapovic slip-on how-to w/pics...

Got my special order Akrapovic "EVO II" slip-on exhaust from Brad at Superbike Supply today. First things first, Brad was excellent to deal with on this. I really wanted the looks and sound of a shorty can but didn't want to go with a full exhaust for my purposes. I contacted Brad and asked him about the possibility of getting an Akra slip-on with an EVO shorty can. Instead of simply saying, "No, that's not in the catalog." Brad said he thought it was a great idea and told me he would check with Akrapovic to see if it would work. He had Akrapovic test fit the set-up to make sure the EVO II can would line up and fit with the slip-on mid pipe and muffler hanger. He quickly got back to me and told me that Akrapovic done a test fit and said it would work. He said the only catch was that he'd have to order each piece individually since there was no "kit" part number for this set-up. We agreed on a price and he got it in the works. Thanks again for going to the trouble and helpin' me get exactly what I wanted, Brad.

Anyway, the goodies got here today and I couldn't wait to put it on. I took some pics for a basic slip-on install how-to while I was at it. It's a VERY simple ordeal so I didn't get into micro detail with the pics, but everything should be covered. Here's the how-to...

Removing the stock midpipe and can is about as simple as it gets wrenchin' on bikes. First loosen the clamp that holds the stock midpipe to the header (behind the brake side rearset) using either a 10mm wrench or a 10mm socket and a ratchet. I used a socket, extension and ratchet because the location of the clamp bolt was on the bottom side of the pipe and the socket and extension made it easier to get to without having to lay in the floor.






With the midpipe clamp loose and slid off of the midpipe onto the header outlet it's time to loosen the stock muffler hanger bolt and remove it. The hanger bolt is located right behind the brake side pillion peg, on the rear tip of the pillion peg bracket. Use a 10mm wrench or socket/ratchet to loosen the hanger bolt. You may have to use a 12mm wrench (or 12mm socket on a second ratchet) to hold the nut on the backside of this bolt. I was able to hold the nut well enough with my fingers to break the bolt loose.






Remove the nut from the bolt and pull the bolt out. Make sure you support the muffler as you remove the bolt because once this bolt is out the midpipe and muffler both come off as one unit. Simply pull the midpipe off of the header outlet and you're done removing the stock stuff.




Before you start the install of the new slip-on do a test fit to make sure everything goes together completely. Sometimes the pipes can become "out of round" at the ends. You may have to play with the end of the midpipe that slides into the can inlet to get them to slide together. Mine took a little bit of wiggling to get the pipe end into the can inlet for the first time, but after the test fit it went in easily. The midpipe to header connection isn't an interference fit. It is held together by a clamp (and spring) so that end should slide together easily. If you took the clamp off with the midpipe instead of sliding it onto the header outlet make sure you put it back on the midpipe or header outlet before you slide them together.

Once the test fit is done take everything back apart and apply a coating of Permatex Ultra Copper high temp sealant to the inside of the can inlet and the inside of the midpipe on the end that slides onto the header outlet. I learned on the busa that it's easier to get some of this stuff and use it the first time than it is to chase a leak and have to take everything back apart to use it later. I got mine at Napa. Most auto parts stores have it.

With the Ultra Copper applied, slide the can onto the midpipe and push it on until it bottoms out against the midpipe. Hold the can up close to where it will hang and then twist the midpipe in the can to align it with the header outlet. Doesn't have to be exact just yet. Just get it close enough that you can slide the midpipe onto the header while the can is in it's approximate final position.







With the midpipe slid onto the header, put the muffler strap onto the muffler carefuly so as not to scratch the can and work the exhaust around until you can slide the hanger bolt through the muffler strap and hanger. Put the nut on the bolt but don't tighten it yet.







Now walk behind the bike and squat down (or get far enough away) to look at how the can is lined up. Some people align the can straight up and down as viewed from the rear. I slightly angle the bottom of the can a touch further inboard than the top. It's a little trick that I learned from the mototune website. Probably does nothing for me, but I do it anyway.

Once you get the can lined up make sure that everything is still fully pushed together (midpipe to header and midpipe into can) and then recheck alignment. Once alignment is double checked tighten the clamp that holds the midpipe to the header. I had to make a gasket/spacer because the makeshift EVO slip-on kit didn't come with a clamp and the stock one was too big. I'm going to order a properly sized 2" exhaust clamp and do away with the spacer/gasket set-up. The factory torque spec for this bolt is 12 ft-lb. I'd suggest a little blue loctite on the clamp bolt. If you don't use any, make sure you recheck this bolt before and after the first few rides to make sure it doesn't loosen and back out. Also note that the special order kit didn't come with the backet that mounts at the header to hook the spring at that joint to. Gotta see if Brad can get me that. With the standard Akrapovic slip-on kit you get that bracket as well as the proper aftermarket clamp for that joint.

With the clamp tightened to spec recheck can alignment. Adjust if necessary by twisting the can on the midpipe. Once alignment is confirmed tighten the hanger bolt to factory spec of 18 ft-lb. You will likely have to use a 12mm wrench or socket/ratchet on the nut when you torque the hanger bolt.




And that's it. The finished job should look something like this.




--
"Bottom line, when I'm on that bike, it's just me and God...And He better be holding on."- Stillie on SSB

Si vis pacem, para bellum...

El Diablo

Last edited by YSR50; 10-11-2005 at 10:28 AM.
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post #2 of 2 Old 10-08-2005, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Discuss this how-to here:

https://zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13086

--
"Bottom line, when I'm on that bike, it's just me and God...And He better be holding on."- Stillie on SSB

Si vis pacem, para bellum...

El Diablo
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