Yeah, Another Turbo Thread - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 195 Old 05-24-2012, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, Another Turbo Thread

But I need help from you guys. I really want to boost the 10. Prolly 4-5PSI tops. Is it possible to do for under $2k? I feel confident doing all the work myself, so $2k in just parts or so? I know how turbos work and all that stuff, but not so much about installation and what I need to be careful of. I looked through probably 20 threads on this site so far and I feel like Ive learned a ton about it, but it never feels like I know enough.

What are recommended turbos to use? I know GT28 is what Ive seen a lot of, but is that to a specific brand or is that just a sizing type number.
Thoughts on this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GODSPEED-GT2...de3188&vxp=mtr

Please school my ass on this because I want to learn and Ill soak up everything you guys can teach me about it.
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post #2 of 195 Old 05-24-2012, 08:48 PM
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I wanna see this! If u can build a turbo or under 2k illl be doing that as well!
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post #3 of 195 Old 05-24-2012, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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see thats the thing, I dont know if its possible because I only know a lil bit bout a lil bit.
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post #4 of 195 Old 05-24-2012, 10:19 PM
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...it depends on how much you have already done to the bike that will match. I did the kit on my concours for close to that in raw materials, but I did buy my GT28 brand new (about 950 bucks). If you can score a -good- turbo used, you'll be pretty close. Break it down by the numbers for things you need:

High flow, High pressure fuel pump (100 bucks)
Manifold material (about 100 bucks for stainless with an internal wastegate, more if you want to go external)
Turbo (400-1000 bucks... add a wastegate if you go the external route)
PC3/PCV (200 bucks, ish? probably already have one)
Rising rate regulator (80-150 bucks... don't go cheap here)
Wideband & gauge OR Dyno time (probably 300 bucks either way)
Intake plenum (75-150 in materials depending on how you want to do it)
Couplers, clamps, hardware (20-50 bucks depending on quality)
Check valves, filters, vacuum lines, gaskets, etc (50-100 bucks... shit adds up quick)
Fuel lines/fittings/filter (15-150... depends on how clean you want it to be: cheap brass or AN hardware)
Boost gauge (30-100 bucks)
Fuel pressure gauge (20 bucks)
Approx. 2lbs of zip ties (priceless)

...and then welding/fabricating/installing (and maybe tuning) is on you.... assuming you don't butcher anything and have to start over. If you have to pay a GOOD fabricator to make all that one-off, look at spending another 500-1000 bucks: it's very time consuming. That's a -really- rough estimate, but you get the idea on how it stacks up. some of that can be had cheaper, but shipping and tax add up too. Sometimes you can get lucky and buy "Kit Parts" from people or vendors to get over the tough stuff (manifolds, mostly). Realistically you should look at closer to 3K on the cheap side if you're patient and wait for deals on parts (and do most of the work). If you decide to give it a go, shoot me a PM and I get give you some more detailed advice. :)

Last edited by SpazOnaZX; 05-24-2012 at 10:22 PM.
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post #5 of 195 Old 05-24-2012, 10:40 PM
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...and a GT28 is not a bad choice. For 5psi on the street I'd go with the smaller offered exhaust A/R ratio (.60ish IIRC). To find out what size you need, you need to be really honest with yourself and plan out what you are going to do with the bike and how you would like it to behave. Land speed racing? Drag racing? Scaring yourself shitless on the street? Quick spool at the expense of top end, or high boost threshold and great top end numbers? Easy and compact internal wastegate, or more efficient but expensive external gate? Lots of questions to answer before you can pick the "right" turbo.

...but stay away from cheap ass turbos: they're not worth the gamble on reliability on a bike. Take your time and get a good name brand unit that fits your goals. Garrett, Turbonetics, IHI, Mitsubishi all make good OEM quality turbos in the size range that you are looking for. I like Garrett myself: their quality IS the standard, and they are tough little bastards. Another + to using name brand stuff is that you can accurately plot how they flow and match them to what you need. You're just guessing with most of that knock-off garbage.
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post #6 of 195 Old 05-25-2012, 04:16 AM Thread Starter
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what is the A/R Ratio and IIRC? I drag race. Im not looking at it as my way of being fast on the strip, Im still learning a shit load about how to race right and all. I was more looking for a street beast really for fun. Not really looking for a quick spool either. Im willing to sacrifice the low end potention from it for slightly higher. Id like it to be midrange more so. Im looking for scare me on the street when I wind it up, but off boost and low end unaffected type setup. I just kept seeing people saying GT28, so that was what I figured was the winner in terms of a good turbo for the bike. I want to just run a decent amount of boost so I can break the 200whp mark. Dont care for cranking it up and breaking the bike right now. I want to have a lot of rideability and reliability in the bike.
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post #7 of 195 Old 05-25-2012, 04:32 AM Thread Starter
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post #8 of 195 Old 05-25-2012, 04:40 AM
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Get a garrett turbo or a turbonetics. Stay away from EBAY whaen turbo shopping.
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post #9 of 195 Old 05-25-2012, 04:53 AM Thread Starter
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Im definently looking into all of that now. This has been one of the more helpful threads to fill my ridiculous curiousity. will watch for Garretts pretty much exclusively. I want to do high quality, but want to try and keep this down to around 2k
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post #10 of 195 Old 05-25-2012, 05:03 AM
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Ball bearing turbo is worth the extra money. Journal bearing turbos spool slower and when they fail spew metal throughout the oil system. Ball bearing is worth the xtra coin man. Not much more, especially on a small turbo. Maybe $100-$150 more.
There are hybrid turbos out there that use a garrett center section and the company selling their own brand just uses their own cold and hot side(intake/exhaust sides).
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