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Whch oil is best for street use:Motul 5100 or 300v?!

31K views 26 replies 15 participants last post by  mpp12 
#1 ·
I am about to change my bike at 3000miles. I was going to put synthetic oil. I heard that running full synthetic (Motul 300v) may make the clutch slip and that Motul 5100 is best for street use. I use the bike as a daily driver and ride it hard on Sunday morning rides. WHat are you opinions? I just want the best for the bike but dont want to spend the extra money if not needed. Also I live in Hawaii and was wondering the prefered viscocity/weight to use. I know recommended is 10W40 but I see Motul in both 10W50 and 15W50. Any big difference between the two? The local shops here say not to use the 10W40 but to use either 10W50 or 15W50. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
#3 ·
#9 ·
I don't see the point in using 300v for street use.
that is True, 10x

I recommend Motul 7100 10w60 in hot condition +- 30 - 45c

I install on my bike oil pressure gauge and I am looking always there what pressure I have when I am driving...so the best valve was when I put there 10W60 Motul 7100,
7100 It's high quality oil, 5100 medium quality oil,
I want to told you all that I am always using oil additives, - Bardahl Full metal.

P.S. I am owner Kawasaki zx10r 2011 and this is my 8 bike in my life, I have stunt bike too Kawasaki zx636r 2004 B1, so I suggest you all that never use 300v Oil when you are riding on street or street ricing, this oil is very thin and when you driving in street you can't put in your hands always high RPM, this means that thin oil always going very fast down and you have low oil in engine when you have low pressure at low rpm, this oil is good when you are driving 90 % in high rpm(up to 8500rpm) and this oil is for onetime use only...+ if you will use this oil soon your clutch and your engine will have low resource.

you must Know where,what,how and why to use,

I made test about additive and all oil what we have in our life, Motul,Castrol, Mobil 1, Shell, nobody use normal additives in oil because you will have high resource and your engine never will stop working, and this will be bad for company Kawasaki, BMW, Mercedes, because they have contracts, there service will not work normal...All company what to make like this oil that 100 000 km engine start to work bad, (about cars)

So, I recommend if someone don't believe this go and buy Badrahl Full metal Additive for motorcycle and make own tests, I promise you that all you will be happy. ))

Benefits: low friction, low temperature, fast rpm up and down, normal oil PSI pressure (manual recommendations: +-28PSI at 5000RPM at 50c temp.)

If you don't want to use any additives, use Motul 7100 10W60 IF YOU DON'T DRIVING ON WINTER. (-10C) if you drive on winter use 10w50, don't use 5100 motul, and if you drive only on winter use 10W40 7100.

thanks for attention, :)

here is your link what I want to told you all :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzwTlJkOfKY

this is in russian language, I think it will not problem, everything it's clear there. simple look :)
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the replies.
 
#21 ·
Famishiko some of the people using said products will blow so much wind up the companys products because they are sponsored by them!beneficial for there future support!Im not being negative toward you or what you use in regards to oil and products!300v is a great oil and if changed regularly works fine in my bike,so does Silkolene pro4+!theres a great choice of oils these days so everyone has their favorite!
 
#22 ·
Famishiko, I have no intention slam you.
I think you are great Kawa frend, good mechanic and I respect you.
Don't know anything about Bardahl products myself. I did not express myself very clearly by saying not beliving in "Bardahl miracle".
I said that only with regard to video content you posted.
It's fine with me when people using additives and being convinced it's good for engine.

My only problem is that a product (possibly good product) is marketed with wrong arguments (video).
I don't like that video, it is missleading bullshit, this type of grinding exist for example in overheated truck wheel bearing. It cannot be used as an argument to suggest: "you better don't use Mobile, Castrol, Shell, Motul motor oil".
Winner in that test would have been bearing grease.

No offence man, it's just my opinion. And you know what they say about an "oil thread".
 
#23 ·
turbo and superchargers here in DR swear bardall octane booster only one that works....

All that I have used on that brand works....

I use repsol 10w 50 because I get it for FREE... they give me a case every month of diferent stuff... Repsol mineral stuff is.....
but the sintetic is better.

there is so many options with good brands that you cannot go wrong.. simply.
 
#25 ·
turbo and superchargers here in dr swear bardall octane booster only one that works....

All that i have used on that brand works....

I use repsol 10w 50 because i get it for free... They give me a case every month of diferent stuff... Repsol mineral stuff is.....
But the sintetic is better.

There is so many options with good brands that you cannot go wrong.. Simply.
:+2:
 
#24 ·
Carlos76

I understand you Carlos, Ofc I had like this feeling what you have now, I was in your shoes and I speak like you early, I will not use any additives :)...I don't want that someone propagated me or agitated me with shit youtube video :)

That's why I made own test about friction...Take rotor with bearing and this torque wrench,when I pull Motul, Castrol there was 35 or 40 Nm and this bearing was stop moving...and there was xrxrxrxxr very big noise, I had feeling that I pull there water

when I pull bardahl in bearing omg there was so smooth, I push there + 100 Nm with this wrench and I can't stop this bearing and there was not any noise any damaged metals, when I sow this I was in shock :)
I think in my mind hmm really today world companies all is big Trolls )))

Swear I don't know how this work in high temperature, but I know this 100 % that this work about friction.

I don't want to slam you too bro :) I want only good that's all )
 
#26 ·
Actually motors are a floating lubricated systems...

only where things go metal to metal is when the pistons go up and down the cylinders.... Amsoil, Repsol (which i recomend, promote here in DR), Mobil, Castrol, Sylkolene, Motul...

YOU CANNOT GO WRONG....

you can go wrong if you dont change it, you can go wrong if you use additives that fuck the clutch, you can go wrong if you use a non OEM filter and it blows (dont ask me how I know)

have friends swear by shell syn 6, the cosco cheap stuff, and change it like drinking water.

on aditives, the only one that I use is LC20, some guys that know their sh... use it.
and use the FP60 fuel one, with great results.
 
#27 ·
LC20 is an oil additve that has lubricants, some hydrocarbon solvent cleaners, extra anti-oxidants, and some added AW included.

For modern engines using modern oils I don't think it is any longer needed. It was developed back when engine oils had high sludging potential and people needed a crankcase cleaner.

If you have an engine with sludge in it, it will clean it out. This is one (of many) decarbonizers that has been used in the "MolaSoke" process for decarbonizing piston crowns and piston rings.

Now the FP PLUS is a fuel additive that can clean the fuel system, injectors, and reduce injector stiction. It has a bio-synthetic solvent included.
 
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