Wanna paint your bike? Heres a how to get you started! - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-05-2005, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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Wanna paint your bike? Heres a how to get you started!

Heres a few tips, if anyone else has anything to add feel free!
Ive been getting a lot of PM's with members wanting to know how to paint their own bikes. First you will need a COMPRESSOR. Heres a link to a decent Compressor that will work great.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=55222

Next you will need a decent HVLP gun. This is the one I started with and it works great for the price.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90977
Next you will need a good filter system to get clean DRY air. Heres the one that I started with.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=1118
Ok now its time to buy some material. You will need a good pre cleaner. You can buy this at autozone. Its also called a grease and wax remover. Its about 3.00 a can, one can should be enough. You will also need some tack rags and lint free rags. Now its time to buy some paint. Heres a link to the place where I buy my House of Kolor. You can use any kind of paint you wish but Ive found that HOK is easy to work with and easy to mix.
http://www.autobodysupply.net/houseofcolor/houseof.htm
First you will need to shop for a good primer.
http://www.autobodysupply.net/catalog/default.asp?CategoryID=436
Then a sealer
(use the same link above)
Now time to think about a color. It is important to use a primer/sealer that is close to your base color you pick. Stay away from kandies they are pretty hard to learn and are not for the first timer.
Now shop for some clear. I use UC35 or UFC-35
http://www.autobodysupply.net/catalog/default.asp?CategoryID=433
It tells you the mixing ratio in the link that you will need Reducer and hardner. You will also need Reducer for your base. You can use the same reducer for clear and reducer. When shopping for Reducer it comes in 310 311 and 312. 310 is for about 50' 311 is for 70' and 312 is for anything above that. Most HOK paint is 2 to 1 mixing. Now if you want to paint a few colors and lines on you fairings you need to buy fine line tape and masking tape. Its in this linkabout 3/4 of the way down the page.
http://www.autobodysupply.net/catal...?CategoryID=433
When you order the paint ask for tech sheets on the products your buying. This will tell you the mixing ratios. Also ask for paint mixing cups.
Ok now its time to paint! Next pick up some sand paper, you will need about four sheets of 400,800,1500 and about four sheets of 2000. Lets get started!Spray the pre clean on the parts before sanding and try to wipe off before it drys, do one part at a time. Then get some 400 grit wet sand paper sand all your parts. Make sure they are all dull and have no shine left on them!Once done with that wash your parts really well! Then get one of your tack rags and go over all the parts, this should remove lint ect. Now spray the precleaner on them and wipe clean again, with a lint free rag! Now mix up your primer, shoot your primer. Stay about six inches away from the parts. Give it a med coat. Let flash dry for about five min. Then hit it again pretty heavy. clean your gun out really good with thinner. Once the primer is dry wet sand with 800 wet. Try not to sand through the primer, were just trying to smooth it out! Once done wash the parts again let dry and hit it with precleaner. Now apply your sealer the same way as the primer. Let dry and make sure its flat and smooth. Now its time for the base. Tack rag and pre clean the parts again and mix up your base. Apply just enough base to cover and thats it! Dont over apply it! But make sure you get all edges! Also dont get in over your head! Only do parts that you know you can cleared within 24hrs. Because after 24hrs. You have to scuff your base and reshoot your base then clear. Now that your base is down after about 35min you can shoot the clear. Or if your going to add other colors you can start to tape 15min after you shoot your base. Clean your gun of base really well! Mix up your clear and shoot your parts. Apply a thin coat of clear to your parts. Let flash for about 5 min. then hit it with a med coat. Let flash for 10min now hit it with a med/heavy coat. Your parts will be dry to the touch within eight hours at 70' and ready to wet sand out that orange peel in 24hrs, if you have any. This is where it gets tough! Take your 1500 and get a bowl and put a drop of soap and the rest water so your sand paper doesnt bite. Sand all your parts untill all the shine is gone. Yes this is a LOT of work! STAY AWAY FROM THE EDGES!!!!! again do not sand the edges!! Take great care or you will sand through the clear and hit your base and fug up you whole job!! Once the parts are sanded with 1500 grab the 2000 and get to sanding! The parts will look really dull! You will think that there is no way in hell they will shine. Dont worry! Get some rubbing compound(3M) and buff the parts with a buffer. They will start to shine but this isnt the end. Wash the compound off really good! Now polish the parts with 3m glaze. You will be amazed at the shine! Thats it your done!!! Im sure many of you will still have questions feel free to contact me with them. Ill try and help! Good luck and have fun! Oh one more thing! DONT FORGET YOUR MASK!!! This chit will kill you!
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-05-2005, 05:09 PM
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O.k., lets say ya got mirror block off plates coming from schnitz's made from beautiful billet aluminum and you want to paint them to match the frame. What would one do to make it last?? There gonna take some abuse over 180 m.p.h.!! Would you use a satin black with clear or satin with satin clear, what does anyone think to perfectly match them to the frame??

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post #3 of 12 Old 01-05-2005, 05:49 PM
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hope you don't mind me butting in.

You would hate to have this whole paint job lift and be ruined, so DON’T skimp on the primer and sealers! Buy the best you can afford. I personally try to us/buy catalyzed primer and sealer when ever I’m painting something that’s going to be done with in a 24 hour period. Non- catalyzed primers tend to shrink with time which might cause the paint and clear to wrinkle and look “vainy”.



A few other things I would recommend are
  • When buying your paint ask for stick and strainers. They should be free and a must for clean paint jobs.
  • Clean the shop around were you are going to be painting. The hose for the gun will kick up dust and dirt and you don’t want that!
  • Be careful when taping over fresh paint especially metal flak. Pressing down on the tape to can flatten out the flake which will kill its reflectiveness, and may cause a “tapeline” in the paint.
  • When painting your stuff, make sure they are secured so they won’t fall when painting and you have plenty of room to work.
  • SHOP RAGS. Get some of those blue or white paper shop rags in a box, and don’t be afraid to waste them on clean up! They are sturdy and work really well for cleaning your mixing cups and gun.
  • Lastly practice. Paint something small like a piece of 1’x1’ scrap metal to get the feel for what’s going on. I know it’s a lot of work cleaning the gun for a piece of sheet metal but the practice is well worth the effort.

Kyle
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-07-2005, 10:49 PM
 
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what do you do as far as a paint booth is concerned? I'd love to paint plastics in my garage but hear the smell is strong (and carries to the neighbors rather well... ) Do you have a booth or spray outdoors or what's up?
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-07-2005, 10:53 PM
 
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It's not so much the smell (you *must* wear a respirator certified for VOCs) but the fact that everything in the garage will end up with a layer of paint dust on it.
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-07-2005, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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I do it in the garage. I have a whole house fan in the house and when I spray I turn it on. I also have a cut out in the garage and a filter setup on top of the hole. I crack the garage door and it clears everything out FAST! Yeah the neighbors get pissed at me(I live in cali in a newer house) So were pretty much on top of each other. Winter is good to me though. When it rains its keeps down the fumes,lol.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-07-2005, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cryptoman
It's not so much the smell (you *must* wear a respirator certified for VOCs) but the fact that everything in the garage will end up with a layer of paint dust on it.
Yep a good mask is a MUST! The filters on the mask should be changed every two days. Once you open them they are going.
I cover EVERYTHING in 3m plastic including the floor!
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-12-2005, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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ttt
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post #9 of 12 Old 05-15-2005, 02:38 PM
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Hey zx102nv and the rest. thanks for the GREAT write up. it's perfect to get me started.. good work..

I have some q's for ya:

how would you paint (prepare to paint) the side pieces of the front fender?

If the fairings have road rash, how would you prepare that for painting?
I heard you can weld a broken fairing, what do you think?

I got a big dent in my tank, how should I approach that? I wanted to try to fix it,,, at leas it would be great for a learning experience.
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post #10 of 12 Old 05-15-2005, 08:47 PM
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I've been told that you can't paint your plastic fork covers or hugger if it has been cleaned with anything other than water. The chemicals will cause the paint to lift. Is this true or is there a surface prep that will take all the residue off?

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