Valve tolerance question - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 18 Old 06-23-2010, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Valve tolerance question

I just inspected my valve this morning on my 06 zx10 and they are a little loose.
I know the tolerance for the Ex is .17 - .22mm or .0067 - .0087in and for
the intake it is .15 - .24mm or .0059 - .0094in.

My question is where in that range should I be.

The bike is only used for track and race so no street miles. The bike is production so there is no special components.

I have called a few places some say go with the middle of the range while others are saying to go closer to the tight side.

I can see the benefits to both so any input would be very helpful

Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 18 Old 06-23-2010, 02:56 PM
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I might be wrong on this but as a machinist I would think that as long you are within the high and low of your tolerances you should be ok. In the machine shop world thats why you have tolerance. Also if I understand things correctly the valves in this engines get tight over time instead of loose due to valveseat wear,....again not sure?

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post #3 of 18 Old 06-23-2010, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nczx-10r View Post
I might be wrong on this but as a machinist I would think that as long you are within the high and low of your tolerances you should be ok. In the machine shop world thats why you have tolerance. Also if I understand things correctly the valves in this engines get tight over time instead of loose due to valveseat wear,....again not sure?
I have heard that usually it is supposed to get tight too which is another thing that is throwing me off. I'm mostly curious as to weather on side of the spectrum is better than another for road racing or if I should shoot for the middle. I was told that the shims might be starting to compress witch would cause the loose fit. I don't know.
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post #4 of 18 Old 06-23-2010, 03:18 PM
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I have heard that usually it is supposed to get tight too which is another thing that is throwing me off. I'm mostly curious as to weather on side of the spectrum is better than another for road racing or if I should shoot for the middle. I was told that the shims might be starting to compress witch would cause the loose fit. I don't know.
I think the shims are made of really hard forged material, if so seems they would break before compressing. It throws me off about the valves getting tight also,I have been told the valve angle and the valve seat wears causing the the valve to press farther into the head closing the clearance between the cam and the valve................

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post #5 of 18 Old 06-23-2010, 03:29 PM
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If I were you I would keep them within spec and try to get them consistent. i.e. all of the intakes at similar tolerances and all of the exhaust valves at similar tolerances. As long as you are in spec I do not think you are gaining anything by being tight or loose. I would shoot for the middle. I know for a race bike you do not want them too tight since this can cause your valves to overheat and fail.

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post #6 of 18 Old 06-23-2010, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nczx-10r View Post
I think the shims are made of really hard forged material, if so seems they would break before compressing. It throws me off about the valves getting tight also,I have been told the valve angle and the valve seat wears causing the the valve to press farther into the head closing the clearance between the cam and the valve................
I think I need to check the buckets also to make sure that the cam hasn't worn into the causing them to be recessed. Also under advice from a buddy at work I am going to run a leak down and compression test to see if maybe the valves are gummed up which may cause them to be loose. I haven't noticed a lack of power but better to do it right than wonder once it is back together
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post #7 of 18 Old 06-23-2010, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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If I were you I would keep them within spec and try to get them consistent. i.e. all of the intakes at similar tolerances and all of the exhaust valves at similar tolerances. As long as you are in spec I do not think you are gaining anything by being tight or loose. I would shoot for the middle. I know for a race bike you do not want them too tight since this can cause your valves to overheat and fail.
If there is nothing to gain from it then I will just go for the middle.
Is it friction from them being tight which would cause them to overheat and fail? I am definitely trying to avoid failure, but if they are within spec just on the tight side would it be a noticeable difference in heat or failure?
I also know that loose tolerances tend to wind up faster so I don't know if that may prove a factor in my decision.
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post #8 of 18 Old 06-23-2010, 03:39 PM
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Kawi race manual says that more power is expected if the valveclearances are set to "upper" range. Does that mean valveclearances should be loose?
I did set mine loose side. Intakes are now average 0,20mm and ex are average 0,22mm. I do lot of trackdays, so i decided to adjust like this mentioned.
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post #9 of 18 Old 06-23-2010, 03:45 PM
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My understanding is that if the valves are too tight they can not cool properly and they overheat and bend/fail. I think this is due to the constant contact with the valve train. A bit of separation allows for more oil to cool the valve and surrounding components.

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post #10 of 18 Old 06-23-2010, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
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My understanding is that if the valves are too tight they can not cool properly and they overheat and bend/fail. I think this is due to the constant contact with the valve train. A bit of separation allows for more oil to cool the valve and surrounding components.
Also if they are too tight they will not seat completely causing a loss of compression and could burn the exhaust valves do to combustion blowing through the valve giving it a cutting torch effect.

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