Gen 3: 2008-2010 Trouble shooting Integrated Tailing HELP Needed - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-24-2014, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Trouble shooting Integrated Tailing HELP Needed

Can someone provide me with some guidance on testing my integrated tailights. Here is some background before I continue; My bike refused to start a few days ago. I've tested the battery (Speedcell) and low and behold the voltage at rest is below 10v. That led me to start looking at the R/R because I think the battery was prematurely drained. I borrowed a good battery to test the R/R and it works just fine. Voltage across the battery goes above 14v with some throttle input.

As I was putting the bike back together I noticed that my tail lights was not on with the ignition in the ON position and or with the bike running. I checked the brake led and it works fine when the brakes are depressed. Otherwise the LEDs do not illuminate.

This is where my trouble shooting skills have come to an end. I think the LED tails may or may not be defective or I have an issue in the harness elsewhere.

Can someone give me some guidance as to how to test the tailights and or harness?





5.Tail/Brake Light LED. Blk/Yellow and Red wires

Last edited by Levelz; 07-24-2014 at 11:13 PM.
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post #2 of 14 Old 07-24-2014, 10:30 PM
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There's 3 wires into the tail light connector. Brake lights on 1 wire activated by the switch, tail lights on another wire with a constant 12v with the ignition on, and the last one is ground. It's not hard. Pull the connector off and see if any of the wires have 12v on them with the meter grounded on a frame bolt. When I get near a service manual, I can check the wire colors, but it's much more simple than that.


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post #3 of 14 Old 07-24-2014, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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There's 3 wires into the tail light connector. Brake lights on 1 wire activated by the switch, tail lights on another wire with a constant 12v with the ignition on, and the last one is ground. It's not hard. Pull the connector off and see if any of the wires have 12v on them with the meter grounded on a frame bolt. When I get near a service manual, I can check the wire colors, but it's much more simple than that.


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Thanks for the reply. I need to clarify a few things because I am still a little confused. The bike is actually an 09ZX6R. I made the assumption that the 10R are wired similarly. Ive added a photo of the tail lights for clarity. The black harness plug (center) in the picture I believe is associated with the brake lights. The grey harness plug at the top of the photo sort of hidden from view I believe is tied to the brake lights. I dont recall how many wires are in the grey plug. But essentially I should check for a constant 12v with the ign switch on?? And if it checks out then the Integrated Tail is defective? Sorry for the stupid quaestions. Mechanically inclined and I dont intevene with electrical much which is ironic considering who my employer is.
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post #4 of 14 Old 07-25-2014, 08:00 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I need to clarify a few things because I am still a little confused. The bike is actually an 09ZX6R. I made the assumption that the 10R are wired similarly. Ive added a photo of the tail lights for clarity. The black harness plug (center) in the picture I believe is associated with the brake lights. The grey harness plug at the top of the photo sort of hidden from view I believe is tied to the brake lights. I dont recall how many wires are in the grey plug. But essentially I should check for a constant 12v with the ign switch on?? And if it checks out then the Integrated Tail is defective? Sorry for the stupid quaestions. Mechanically inclined and I dont intevene with electrical much which is ironic considering who my employer is.
No, that's not right. The grey connector up top of the photo has nothing to do with the lights. That's the tip-over switch. The black connector is what routes power to the taillights/brake lights. The black wire with yellow stripe is the ground for both. With the ignition on, you should check between the black wire and both of the other wires in that connector to see which is which. You should be getting a constant 12v to one of them with just the ignition on (which is the taillight circuit). The blue and yellow wires are your turn signal lines going into the taillight housing.

According to the wiring diagram you posted, it looks like it's just the black and red wire doing anything for the taillight. The blue/red stripe is the brake light circuit. That's what should be switched 12v when you pull the lever. Since your brake lights work already, verify power on the taillight wires. I'd bet it's fine and your light is bad though. Typical with shitty aftermarket integrated lights.

Measure the voltage across the black and red wires.

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Last edited by SkyDork; 07-25-2014 at 08:07 AM.
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-25-2014, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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No, that's not right. The grey connector up top of the photo has nothing to do with the lights. That's the tip-over switch. The black connector is what routes power to the taillights/brake lights. The black wire with yellow stripe is the ground for both. With the ignition on, you should check between the black wire and both of the other wires in that connector to see which is which. You should be getting a constant 12v to one of them with just the ignition on (which is the taillight circuit). The blue and yellow wires are your turn signal lines going into the taillight housing.

According to the wiring diagram you posted, it looks like it's just the black and red wire doing anything for the taillight. The blue/red stripe is the brake light circuit. That's what should be switched 12v when you pull the lever. Since your brake lights work already, verify power on the taillight wires. I'd bet it's fine and your light is bad though. Typical with shitty aftermarket integrated lights.

Measure the voltage across the black and red wires.
Sydork your'e a life saver man thanks for the help. I will report back. I also do suspect the light to be bad.It was flickering while I was riding some days ago according to my cousin.
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-25-2014, 10:09 AM
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Sydork your'e a life saver man thanks for the help. I will report back. I also do suspect the light to be bad.It was flickering while I was riding some days ago according to my cousin.
Good luck with it. I do suspect your light is bad. If that's the case, you can get a high-quality replacement from

www.customled.com

The Blaster-X is the best and brightest light on the market. It will last for years. It's more expensive than the cheap knock-offs from China, but the quality difference will prevent the problem you're now dealing with. If it does turn out to be a wiring issue (doubtful), you're going to need to start probing deeper for the root cause.

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post #7 of 14 Old 07-25-2014, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Good luck with it. I do suspect your light is bad. If that's the case, you can get a high-quality replacement from

www.customled.com

The Blaster-X is the best and brightest light on the market. It will last for years. It's more expensive than the cheap knock-offs from China, but the quality difference will prevent the problem you're now dealing with. If it does turn out to be a wiring issue (doubtful), you're going to need to start probing deeper for the root cause.
OK so I tested the brake light.I have a constant 12v between the ground and red wire and 12v on the blue wire when I engage the brake switch. So it's seems the harness is fine and the tailight is junk. Would the bad light create enough of a voltage drop to drain my speed cell battery in 2 days? Although I suspect it's been doing it a lot longer than that and I simply didn't ride the bike long enough (15 mins) the last time to help it recharge,
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-25-2014, 10:38 AM
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OK so I tested the brake light.I have a constant 12v between the ground and red wire and 12v on the blue wire when I engage the brake switch. So it's seems the harness is fine and the tailight is junk. Would the bad light create enough of a voltage drop to drain my speed cell battery in 2 days? Although I suspect it's been doing it a lot longer than that and I simply didn't ride the bike long enough (15 mins) the last time to help it recharge,
Yes, sounds like the light is bad.

No, that's not the cause of your battery drain. The ignition switch is what controls power to the light. If the ignition is off, that taillight circuit is dead and wouldn't be causing a parasitic drain on your battery. There's something else causing that that's active even with the ignition switch off.

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post #9 of 14 Old 07-25-2014, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, sounds like the light is bad.

No, that's not the cause of your battery drain. The ignition switch is what controls power to the light. If the ignition is off, that taillight circuit is dead and wouldn't be causing a parasitic drain on your battery. There's something else causing that that's active even with the ignition switch off.
Just out of curiousity I connected the tailight directly to the battery with my meter test leads and it illuminated. So Im a little baffled it would illuiminate but not when connected to harness. One of the pins seemed a little loose but other than that I'm puzzled.
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post #10 of 14 Old 07-25-2014, 12:47 PM
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Just out of curiousity I connected the tailight directly to the battery with my meter test leads and it illuminated. So Im a little baffled it would illuiminate but not when connected to harness. One of the pins seemed a little loose but other than that I'm puzzled.
Did you connect the taillight to the battery or the brake light? Are you sure the taillight portion was working? It's possible the loose pin in the connector is not making good contact and that is causing the issue then.

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