I'm fully aware of the results of octane. I know running higher octane requires timing adjustment, I also know that higher octane is good when compression is high and even more so when the bike is hot, it retards the time at which the fuel will combust without spark. It has been well over 90 for weeks now and I have adjusted my ignition dwel as well as timing to match. when done like this, performance will increase not decrease, the only time you would experience decrease in performance is if you ran 100 in a stock bike or more so in a low compression engine. Mine is neither. I appreciate the wisdom for those who may not have been aware
also, Fullerton is where the station is as I realized I failed to mention that. Also, I have wideband sensor and woolich installed and have adjusted my tune as needed already. Again thanks for the heads up for those people who don't get the concept of octane. If I had an issue with it I could always add heptane since it is concidered zero octane so could do the math to bring the fuel down to spec. Alternative to that would be a UV light aimed into my fuel for a few seconds at a time as uv quickly and efficiently destroys the octane increasing ingredients in fuel. that bit of info I got directly from VP fuels so I will hold that to be fact.
since most widebands are set for roughly 14.68 to 1 and the stoichiometry of the fuel I can get at the pump is 14.2 to 1, I do a little math and adjust accordingly. since I don't usually run the 100 octane it isn't something I plan on getting too much into, used to be able to get 110 leaded at a pump in orange but that station is now an Arco so will have to live with buying vp by the 5 gallon unit. 14.2 vs 14.7 isn't that far off, just need to keep the lambda in range of .80 to .84 roughly. .80 to .82 is better from what I understand. I'm in process of making and coding a AMOLED touch display to give me live readouts for the wideband and all other engine data I can harvest via odb2 interface. just gotta make sure I can get the odb2 while still leaving my woolich stuff connected. Only had this bike for just under 2 months so work in progress. But I do tend to run slightly rich vs lean for temperature purposes. Not trying to buy a new engine a year into owning it. here is a link and is what I use to determine my afr target. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums...-car-run-lean-if-not-tuned-4.html#post2924048
hope that helps unless you were just trying to check to see if I was talking out my ass. Anyhow, doesn't matter, here is all the realevant info and is what I use to figure this crap out
My bike is tuned on 100octane but after the gen5 airbox swap & mod im seeing high 13s 10k and up. Im just going to bring it down alittle bit. Not tryin to get rid of the 2013 yet.
so it actually matters who manufacturers/refines the fuel and also which wideband sensor you are using and if it will allow you to display lambda or just it's calibrated version of AFR. Still what are you shooting for and what are you using to tune? 13 to 1 isn't bad but might run a lil warm. I'm happy when it's between 12.5 -13.3 usually. I'm still pretty new to tuning with woolich and adjusting to different fuels etc but I'm liking it. just gotta be careful. The optimal fuel burn ratio is at over 14 to 1 however that also means much more heat and stress on the engine which I am not trying to do. maybe when winter comes around I'll adjust closer to the stoio ratio but for now I am still getting 40+ mpg at 85 to 90 mph cruising and average over 35 and have mad power all while my bike runs generally cooler. there are some warm spots but oh well. Not sure what mod you mean by the gen 5 swap and mod but yeah so long as the bike stays between 12 and 14 your good. wouldn't really want to go out of that range and like I said 12.5 to 13.3 is my happy place
thank you, with a compression ration of over 13 to 1 our bikes can easily run 100 octane with zero tuning or worry of power loss. the bike will adapt quickly, didn't feel like really arguing about it so thanks for the input
my bike currently gen4 degreed and thin HG, likes a bit 100oct, it likes it feels a bit more responsive. I havent touched duell times or a lot the ignition except the hi end at 100%...
Im mostly 13.2 and hi end rpm 13.. with woolich
it just allows the timing to be advanced a bit more without running a risk of pre ignition or detonation and so doing that actually does generally give more power since the Piston will be closer to optimal in relationship to TDC in the stroke cycle. Without doing such, your right, zero benefit really but with timing it absolutely makes a difference
many years ago the only thing we had in Rep Dom was tuolene, mixed with ATF... for turbo cars.
then we started mixing it... we found we lost mayor power if we run it pure 130oct, then we found that bikes liked 1 gal tuolene and 3.5 gal pump (shitty 89 is what we have)
Hey josh clear your inbox it won’t let me send you messages cause your mailbox is full
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