Gen 2: 2006-2007 Stator rectifier problem - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 03-25-2018, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Stator rectifier problem

So I took my bike apart a month or so ago and the last ride I did prior, it wouldn’t start after I road around for a couple mins. Push started it and road around for 20mins. Same issue. Didn’t think anything about it. Took bike apart to paint and address maintaince. Found fried stator to rectifier wiring. The connector was melted from stator. Decided to go crazy and ended up pulling engine for other things. Stator looked great when I got the cover off. Did test on rectifier and it claims it’s bad. Are there only tests for stator while bike is running. Trying to decide what to order and also learned about the shindengen SH775A or sh847aa now. Opinions? Previous owner claimed replacement of bolth. Wiring said otherwise but could become melted like that, quick. Also read about whining on “wot” like a supercharger and yeah I definitely heard that since I bought the bike in November.
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post #2 of 7 Old 03-25-2018, 10:35 AM
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Check for resistance from the 3 stator wires to each other, if there is any, then there is your issue.

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post #3 of 7 Old 03-25-2018, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Also seeing how ricks stators are now made in Taiwan, if one replaces their stator, what would you buy?
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post #4 of 7 Old 03-25-2018, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Resistance is 0 in any direction for stator
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post #5 of 7 Old 03-25-2018, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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So I can only get readings with +lead on W pin when I go to 200k range. It reads in 2k ohm with -lead on W pin. So it’s bad correct?
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post #6 of 7 Old 03-26-2018, 07:40 AM
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Sorry to hear of your woes on this. If those wires are melted, that's the first thing to take care of. The rectifier readings indicate it would be bad, but that's probably due to the wiring melted and shorted.

First things first, and that's the wiring issue. Make sure you have no shorts between the wires in the harness and the chassis. Then you can move onto the rectifier.

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post #7 of 7 Old 03-28-2018, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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If anyone has a second to test their rectifier. All readings are good except when I test + on Pin W all my readings I have to switch to 20k 200k to register on multimeter. Bought another rectifier for $25 from a bike salvage place that tested it and said it was good. Gets the exact same readings? Bolth bad of bolth good?
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