Speedo Healer Questions - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-28-2008, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Speedo Healer Questions

I have read the how too on this site but it doesnt give me a good idea how to remove the conecter gaurd thats on the inside stock conecters. Its giving me some problems and doesnt want to come out. Is there a trick that anyone has done to make the removal of this peice easier. I just dont want to use a ton of force and break it. any help will be much aprisiated.

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post #2 of 9 Old 04-29-2008, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by GrtSaint72 View Post
I have read the how too on this site but it doesnt give me a good idea how to remove the conecter gaurd thats on the inside stock conecters. Its giving me some problems and doesnt want to come out. Is there a trick that anyone has done to make the removal of this peice easier. I just dont want to use a ton of force and break it. any help will be much aprisiated.
I can't picture in my head which connector you are referring to. Do you have, or can you take a pic of the one you are talking about? From memory, I don't recall having an issue with the Speedo Healer install. Now the GIPRO on the other hand...

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post #3 of 9 Old 04-29-2008, 01:18 PM
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I used a pair of needle nose pliers and squeezed both side of the guard to get it off. If you try that it should work without any issues.

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post #4 of 9 Old 04-29-2008, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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The peice i was thinking of was that white connector protecter on the inside of the stock wireharness conecter this is a speedo healer V4 on a 07 zx10. thanks for the advice on the needle nose pliars ill give that a try and see if it removes it. thanks agian for the feedback
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-29-2008, 02:39 PM
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I used a small screwdriver between the outer housing and inner white protector and carefully "bended" it out bit by bit. It is connected with small "hooks" below, so it has to be "lifted" out.

Once the protectors are out, "flip" the connectors forward with a screwdriver, and they'll loosen. Then downwards to get them out.

I too was fidling a bit with this, as the manual isn't really clear about how to do this.
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-29-2008, 02:40 PM
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I just used a small long skinny flat head to push it and the wire unlocks and eaily comes out of the harness plug, if tha't's what your talking about

2005 PMR. Full Ti Evo 2, BMC Race, V-Stacks, PC3, IG Module, DJ QS (not installed), 1/5th throw (not installed), -1 +2 with Gold RK Chain, Speedo Healer V4, Removed 2ndaries, Red GiPro, Pilot Powers, Dual H.I.D.s, Brocks brackets and strap, Rear 2" Muzzy Drop, Vortex Rearsets, Scotts Damper, 2 HyperPro Dampers, Puig DB, ASV Levers, Titax Levers, Pazzo Levers, Kill switch (made to look like it's mounted), CA front/rear lights and a owner who adores her...
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-29-2008, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you everybody for your advise i just did it took me about a hour or so to do it. Now the question is i used the calulator they had online and they said i should correct it by -10.8% is that a good one to use. i have an 07 with -1 up front and stock out back with a 190/55 on the rear anyone have a more accurate calibration or is the -10.8 good enough?
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post #8 of 9 Old 04-29-2008, 06:35 PM
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Sounds good to me. Also depends a little on the tire life. IF you wanna get anal check with GPS, but then you might be dead on at 90 then 1 to 2 off [ or more ] at 130. Will this really drive you nuts? Honestly test it out for your self. I am sure you will be happy. IF you have to make adjustments to suit your tast I am sure it won't be much. Good luck!

2005 PMR. Full Ti Evo 2, BMC Race, V-Stacks, PC3, IG Module, DJ QS (not installed), 1/5th throw (not installed), -1 +2 with Gold RK Chain, Speedo Healer V4, Removed 2ndaries, Red GiPro, Pilot Powers, Dual H.I.D.s, Brocks brackets and strap, Rear 2" Muzzy Drop, Vortex Rearsets, Scotts Damper, 2 HyperPro Dampers, Puig DB, ASV Levers, Titax Levers, Pazzo Levers, Kill switch (made to look like it's mounted), CA front/rear lights and a owner who adores her...
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-29-2008, 06:38 PM
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I am doubting this but is there any difference from the thin head gasket link you set me to the Attack one that is double $$$? I am thinking there's is prolly a OEM one as well.




Whats a est cost for the dealer to put in the Cam and Head Gasket for me? Will they degree it for me or is that one the guy on the Dyno is going to do to get it perf while tuning? Never messed with this so this is why I am asking.

2005 PMR. Full Ti Evo 2, BMC Race, V-Stacks, PC3, IG Module, DJ QS (not installed), 1/5th throw (not installed), -1 +2 with Gold RK Chain, Speedo Healer V4, Removed 2ndaries, Red GiPro, Pilot Powers, Dual H.I.D.s, Brocks brackets and strap, Rear 2" Muzzy Drop, Vortex Rearsets, Scotts Damper, 2 HyperPro Dampers, Puig DB, ASV Levers, Titax Levers, Pazzo Levers, Kill switch (made to look like it's mounted), CA front/rear lights and a owner who adores her...
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