Spark Plugs - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 06-18-2011, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Spark Plugs

Can someone point me to a quick how to on spark plug replacement for an '08? Service manual says I have to completely remove the tank and drain all the fuel. (?) Yes, I searched already. This is a 20 minute job on my gsxr, cannot be that difficult.
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post #2 of 9 Old 06-18-2011, 08:48 PM
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I think it's pretty similar to the earlier gens but I think it's going to take a bit longer than 20 min. It was stupid long on my 1st gen. I had to remove the tank, airbox, side fairings and motor mounts in order to get the outside plugs out. It took me 3 hours. Hopefully it won't be that difficult for you.

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post #3 of 9 Old 06-18-2011, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Damn, 3 hours? I was hoping the manual was over-complicating the job. I guess not.
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-18-2011, 09:05 PM
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You dont really need to drain the tank. And i heard you dont need to remove the engine mounts on the 3rd gen, but not sure

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post #5 of 9 Old 06-18-2011, 09:06 PM
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Can someone point me to a quick how to on spark plug replacement for an '08? Service manual says I have to completely remove the tank and drain all the fuel. (?) Yes, I searched already. This is a 20 minute job on my gsxr, cannot be that difficult.
The best thing to do is follow the instructions in the service manual although I will tell you that you do not need to remove the gas from the tank before you remove it. The fuel line has a quick disconnect that attaches to the fuel pump and no fuel will run through the fuel pump unless it is running.

What I do is remove the two front mounting bolts (the ones that also mount the steering dampener bracket) and then I slightly losen the larger bolt under the seat. I only loosen the back bolt because you can then use the back bolt as a hinge to lift the front of the tank up. Then with a medium size flathead screwdriver release the red tab on the quick disconnect and then disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump. A small amount of gas will leak out so put some rags underneath the pump before you disconnect the fuel line. Make sure that when you take the tank off that you don't sit the tank directly on the nipple where the quick disconnect slides on. I usually place a roll of paper towels under the front of the tank and that will lift the front up enough to clear the nipple.

The rest of the job is relatively easy. Removing the airbox isn't a problem and the throttle body assembly is not very difficult to remove either.
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post #6 of 9 Old 06-18-2011, 09:13 PM
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By the way you don't actually need to remove the throttle bodies but it makes the job a lot easier. How many miles do you have on the current plugs? The reason why I ask is because even the stock plugs should be good until the valves need to be checked at 15K miles. This is the best time to change the plugs obviously. I know the manual says to replace them every 7.5K miles but if you ask any mechanic who works on these bikes they will tell you that the plugs will typically still look new even at 7.5K miles. I have experienced this myself so many times working at a motorcycle dealership that only change the plugs when I have the valves checked.
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post #7 of 9 Old 06-19-2011, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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The best thing to do is follow the instructions in the service manual although I will tell you that you do not need to remove the gas from the tank before you remove it. The fuel line has a quick disconnect that attaches to the fuel pump and no fuel will run through the fuel pump unless it is running.

What I do is remove the two front mounting bolts (the ones that also mount the steering dampener bracket) and then I slightly losen the larger bolt under the seat. I only loosen the back bolt because you can then use the back bolt as a hinge to lift the front of the tank up. Then with a medium size flathead screwdriver release the red tab on the quick disconnect and then disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump. A small amount of gas will leak out so put some rags underneath the pump before you disconnect the fuel line. Make sure that when you take the tank off that you don't sit the tank directly on the nipple where the quick disconnect slides on. I usually place a roll of paper towels under the front of the tank and that will lift the front up enough to clear the nipple.

The rest of the job is relatively easy. Removing the airbox isn't a problem and the throttle body assembly is not very difficult to remove either.
Thanks...doesn't sound too bad.
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post #8 of 9 Old 06-19-2011, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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By the way you don't actually need to remove the throttle bodies but it makes the job a lot easier. How many miles do you have on the current plugs? The reason why I ask is because even the stock plugs should be good until the valves need to be checked at 15K miles. This is the best time to change the plugs obviously. I know the manual says to replace them every 7.5K miles but if you ask any mechanic who works on these bikes they will tell you that the plugs will typically still look new even at 7.5K miles. I have experienced this myself so many times working at a motorcycle dealership that only change the plugs when I have the valves checked.
Bike just hit 7300. I'm super anal about sticking to the scheduled maintenance - but I've also noticed the plugs on my gsxr were fine after 13k. The stock plugs in the 10 are NGK iridium so I was a little surprised the interval was only 7500. I guess I expected they would last longer.
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post #9 of 9 Old 06-19-2011, 11:17 AM
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I wouldn't say 20 mins...more like 30 min job for a gen 3.

Remove seat
remove tank
remove 2ndary injector lines
remove air box
plugs are right there
for plug 1&4 pull it forward towards the radiator

replace everything.

For the 1st gen...yes, it takes a bit longer cause you have to remove the side motor mounts.
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