Secondary flies, rod and servo removal? - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 21 Old 01-12-2010, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Secondary flies, rod and servo removal?

I've got my throttle bodies out and plan on pulling the rod out probably tonight or tomorrow.

I'm thinking its safe to assume if I remove the servo, I will get an FI light?

Has anyone came up with a bypass for the servo yet? If I remember correctly the secondaries do cycle when you turn the key on. Similar to the exhaust servo. Hopefully a bypass circuit for the secondaries is not as complex.

Any help would be great. Otherwise I will check it out when I get things back together.

Ever done a search on anything with secondary or secondaries?lol:
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post #2 of 21 Old 01-12-2010, 06:22 PM
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I heard someone mention that the wires change polarity or something of the sort. Plus you would have to figure out how to fool the position sensor for the shaft as well...

I left mine alone after I pulled the shafts.

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post #3 of 21 Old 01-12-2010, 10:12 PM
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yup, you will get a FI light for sure, but a simple piece of electrical tape over the FI light will fix that lol... does not throw bike into limp mode...

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post #4 of 21 Old 01-12-2010, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks fellas!

Got a couple more questions.

Does the ECU need to see the position sensor cycle, or is it monitoring the servo itself?

If I'm going to have an FI light anyway, the servo is coming off. Otherwise, I'll probably leave the servo mounted.

Also, I'm reading that this sensor is a variable resistor, changing output voltage according to throttle position. The ECU senses voltage change and determines fuel injection quantity, and ignition timing according to engine RPM, and throttle opening.

I didn't realize the subthrottle sensor had that much control!

Any idea what position (or resistance) would be an ideal setting for the sensor to provide optimum timing and fueling?
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post #5 of 21 Old 01-13-2010, 08:34 AM
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I think it needs to see both the servo and the tps...

I dont think there is a way for you to do any tricking here... the servo moves at certain rpm's and cyclces at start up so if anything goes out of the norm it will throw the code. so ya really cant make a "best position" resistor and stick it in there... its either gotta stay or rip everything off...

btw the servo and rod assembly I think was about 2 lbs coming off the bike :-)

also if your going to get a FI light might as well remove the exhaust servo motor as well to shave some more weight.

I've had the same very small square of electrical tape covering my FI light for about 2 years and the bike is just fine and dandy :-p
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post #6 of 21 Old 01-13-2010, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TENN10 View Post
Thanks fellas!

Got a couple more questions.

Does the ECU need to see the position sensor cycle, or is it monitoring the servo itself?

If I'm going to have an FI light anyway, the servo is coming off. Otherwise, I'll probably leave the servo mounted.
If you remove the shaft and leave the servo and sensor mounted, you will NOT have an FI light. The shaft is moved through a linkage that is connected to another linkage and the second linkage connects to the servo shaft. The sensor reads the servo shaft.

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Originally Posted by TENN10 View Post
Also, I'm reading that this sensor is a variable resistor, changing output voltage according to throttle position. The ECU senses voltage change and determines fuel injection quantity, and ignition timing according to engine RPM, and throttle opening.

I didn't realize the subthrottle sensor had that much control!

Any idea what position (or resistance) would be an ideal setting for the sensor to provide optimum timing and fueling?
I think its the other way around. The ECU senses all of the info and determines how much to open the secondaries. Basically, its kinda saying "you want X percentage of throttle (and corresponding air) but you are only going this fast in this gear so you really only need this amount of air." Thats why the removal is beneficial to power. The map that controls them is based on a stock bike. Once you change a few parts, the flow requirements are altered enough to where you could use more air than the secondaries will allow without encountering a stumble.

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post #7 of 21 Old 01-14-2010, 05:59 AM
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AM I correct in understanding you can remove the whole secondary throttle assembly, rod servo and sensor...all of it and besides the FI light the bike will run fine?

Also is this mod suited to just a slip on pipe? No PC?

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post #8 of 21 Old 01-14-2010, 06:15 AM
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ivan's got something for the servo I just found it. http://www.indysuperbike.com/custome...productid=5507
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post #9 of 21 Old 01-14-2010, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by garth285 View Post
I think it needs to see both the servo and the tps...

I dont think there is a way for you to do any tricking here... the servo moves at certain rpm's and cyclces at start up so if anything goes out of the norm it will throw the code. so ya really cant make a "best position" resistor and stick it in there... its either gotta stay or rip everything off...

btw the servo and rod assembly I think was about 2 lbs coming off the bike :-)

also if your going to get a FI light might as well remove the exhaust servo motor as well to shave some more weight.

I've had the same very small square of electrical tape covering my FI light for about 2 years and the bike is just fine and dandy :-p

I went ahead and removed the servo, shaft, and sensor. The servo motor and shaft are fairly heavy.

I should have done some testing before I got started. I'm not completely giving up on being able to bypass this fault. Worth a try anyway. I'll just have to check into it after reassembly.

The FI light to me, is not a big deal. However, I would like to try and avoid it. If not then, yes the Exhaust servo is coming off.
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post #10 of 21 Old 01-14-2010, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazi View Post
If you remove the shaft and leave the servo and sensor mounted, you will NOT have an FI light. The shaft is moved through a linkage that is connected to another linkage and the second linkage connects to the servo shaft. The sensor reads the servo shaft.

If thats the case, then I would (hopefully) be able to figure out the best position for the subthrottle sensor by reading resistance and keep it connected in a fixed position.

Thanks



I think its the other way around. The ECU senses all of the info and determines how much to open the secondaries. Basically, its kinda saying "you want X percentage of throttle (and corresponding air) but you are only going this fast in this gear so you really only need this amount of air." Thats why the removal is beneficial to power. The map that controls them is based on a stock bike. Once you change a few parts, the flow requirements are altered enough to where you could use more air than the secondaries will allow without encountering a stumble.


Makes logical sense, but what I posted was straight out of the Service Manual.


Last edited by TENN10; 01-14-2010 at 07:41 AM.
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