Scotts Damper Questions..HELP! - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-19-2008, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question Revised...Questions...LOCKTIGHT??? SCOTTS DAMPER

1. I installed my Scotts Damper today (I have an 06 ZX 10). I didn't need to cut the key like the directions said.???!!?

My main question is..........................

1. LOCKTIGHT?? I didn't use Locktight on the steering column bolt (32mm bolt in the center of handlebars that holds the bracket on), and went for a ride and the bolt came loose. I didn't use Locktight on that bolt because it wasn't on the stock one. I took it off and re-installed with locktight and tightened a little tighter than the stock torque setting of 15 pounds. HAS THIS HAPPENED TO ANYONE...DID I DO SOMETHING WRONG????

3. The knob on the right....should I mess with that? What about the ones on the side?

I posted a thread asking the forum members which damper is better, Scotts or GPR and overwhelmingly it was voted that Scotts was the way to go.....

If anyone knows a lot about the Scotts Damper, hook me up with the knowledge.....

Thanks!

Last edited by vjhils; 01-20-2008 at 02:08 PM. Reason: revision
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-19-2008, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question Come on...

I know some forum member has the answers.....
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-20-2008, 12:14 AM
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Unless Scotts has dramatically changed from what I got you should have only one thumb adjustment and 2 hidden adjustments for high and low speed adjustments. If your not tracking your bike leave the H and L alone for now. Don't compare your old GPR to Scotts as it's much more adjustable and a setting of 5 on your GPR has nothing to do with a Scotts.

For now I would just adjust the Scotts to where you are just feeling resistance which should be within a few full turns from fully tight. The only time I get close to fully tight is on the drag strip but on the street I just want a little resistance setting
while sitting on the bike so I just mess with it from fully hard setting to where it's starts to get loose.

I'm sure some others might have better suggestions but has worked for me since 1999
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post #4 of 17 Old 01-20-2008, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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Lightbulb thanks...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluedevil View Post
Unless Scotts has dramatically changed from what I got you should have only one thumb adjustment and 2 hidden adjustments for high and low speed adjustments. If your not tracking your bike leave the H and L alone for now. Don't compare your old GPR to Scotts as it's much more adjustable and a setting of 5 on your GPR has nothing to do with a Scotts.

For now I would just adjust the Scotts to where you are just feeling resistance which should be within a few full turns from fully tight. The only time I get close to fully tight is on the drag strip but on the street I just want a little resistance setting
while sitting on the bike so I just mess with it from fully hard setting to where it's starts to get loose.

I'm sure some others might have better suggestions but has worked for me since 1999
Bloo....

As far as adjusting High and Low, I think the directions are general directions for all the dampers, since my High is on the left and the low is on the right, am I correct to assume that?

I appreciate the advice, I guess I need to experiment with it, whereas the GPR was straight forward.
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-20-2008, 03:19 PM
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By knob on the right, I'll assume the not covered one. (whether is on the right or left depends on how the damper is mounted there is 180 rotation choice) anyway leave the arrow tip of that knob, pointing to soft setting (or leave it the way it came if you noticed how it came). Rotating that knob to hard setting can creat such a restance, you would swear the stearing was locked, and if starting out that way dump the bike.

I'm saying hard -soft, the scale might say high -low I'm not looking at it right now, but, i trust you get the drift. :-)
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-20-2008, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question

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By knob on the right, I'll assume the not covered one. (whether is on the right or left depends on how the damper is mounted there is 180 rotation choice) anyway leave the arrow tip of that knob, pointing to soft setting (or leave it the way it came if you noticed how it came). Rotating that knob to hard setting can creat such a restance, you would swear the stearing was locked, and if starting out that way dump the bike.

I'm saying hard -soft, the scale might say high -low I'm not looking at it right now, but, i trust you get the drift. :-)
I've only adjusted the left knob, I like resistance....works awesome. Any, did you install your's.....did you use locktight on that center bracket bolt? I cant believe it came loose. Hopefully the locktight will hold it on. Let me know!!
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-20-2008, 04:34 PM
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I have a very different mounting for mine, that I had to do myself because, what I have is a one of a kind. Z1000 top triple clamp and handlebars on my ZX10 (not recommending this route for streetfighter conversion, a LSL conversion from Spiegler the way to do this) Just mentioning this to explain the different than yours, situation and, I have stock nut there, so.... I might be the only one on the planet that that question doesn't apply to :-)
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post #8 of 17 Old 01-20-2008, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Scotts Owners...

Scotts Damper owners please comment on the Locktight question!! Someones gotta know? I cant believe the bolt came loose, was it because I didn't use Locktight????????????????????????????????????????? ???????????????

Please read my question when I started this thread.

Thanks>
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post #9 of 17 Old 01-20-2008, 08:11 PM
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I did NOT use locktite on the steering stem nut, just tourqed it to spec.

I also didn't use locktite on the other bolts Scotts recommends as I will be needing to remove the damper in the future when removing the tank. I see no need for it if the bolts are tourqed properly.

I did NOT have to cut the key because this is a new triple clamp design that doesn't require it. I started a thread on that and your username was the last to reply in that thread.

I doubt many people mess with the adjuster under the black plastic cover, or the sweep adjustment on the side.

Did your damper not come with an instruction manual? If not I still have mine but the manual explains all this.

This damper works different than the GPR. Scotts doesn't recommend adjusting the control under the black cover until you are comfortable with what you are doing.

The adjuster on the left from fully soft to max stiff is 4 complete turns. I have mine set 1 complete turn out from soft.

I like the design of the GPR better but have read 2 many reports about them leaking and the anodizing fading. I saw a V4 GPR on a bike at the Atlanta bike show and its black finish had faded horribly. It couldnt been that old since they were only released last year.

JJ
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-20-2008, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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yea..

It came with a manual and instructions, I followed the directions, I'm bummed, WTF is wrong?
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