Rear Wheel Bearing destroyed?? Help - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-17-2007, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Rear Wheel Bearing destroyed?? Help

I have RC Component Wheels, within the last 3 months i have gone through 2 sets of wheel bearings... any suggestions on what could be the problem... had a shop go over the wheel and put the second set of bearings and inner spacers in after the first set got hosed... Thinking about going back to the stock wheels..
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post #2 of 11 Old 07-17-2007, 03:24 PM
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What are the torque specs for your wheels? I know a lot of aftermarket wheels have different (lower) torque specs than OEM wheels.

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post #3 of 11 Old 07-17-2007, 04:17 PM
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Misalignment.

Incorrect preload; if the length of the preload spacer doesn't very precisely match the distance between where the bearings seat on the wheel, this will overload the bearings and smoke them in no time.


Helibars, MRA screen, Ohlins damper, reversed shift pattern, sorted suspension, braided lines, Michelin Pilot Power, all else stock 'coz it's fast enough!
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-17-2007, 04:40 PM
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-17-2007, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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Rear Wheel Bearing destroyed??

The inner spacers and bearings were orderd direclty from RC, explaining what bike I have etc.... don't think thats it....

Although I didn't get new spacers from them.. I was using the spacers from my stock wheels...

as a side note: I have had these wheels for 2 years now.. and didn't experience this problem at all last year..

Should I just go back to the Stock Wheels???
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post #6 of 11 Old 07-17-2007, 05:34 PM
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I would figure out why you have the problem, have the bearings got dust seals on them ? are they "true" in the wheels, are they completely sealed or covers just on one side, lots of variables.

Misalignment, preload and lubrication/water contamination are the biggest problems for failed bearings.

Or inadequate bearings for the job.
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-17-2007, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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The bearings were completely sealed, and completely in wheel..

Preload is the only real variable i can think of... brand new everything else??

I don't use water to wash the bike, had gotten caught in the rain 2 times within about a week, but that is the only water it has seen....

as far as being the right ones for the job?? are there that are better for high speed... ie riding hard track type riding but can be used on the street too?? need to get baby girl back on the road quick... having withdrawl symtoms..
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post #8 of 11 Old 07-17-2007, 07:39 PM
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The preload is set by the length of the inner spacer, if you reaasemble the wheel with new bearings they should just barely touch the inner spacer when they are in their free state if it is too loose then the inner part of the bearing will get pushed to one side putting all the thrust on the side walls of the bearing.
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-17-2007, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAF View Post
The preload is set by the length of the inner spacer, if you reaasemble the wheel with new bearings they should just barely touch the inner spacer when they are in their free state if it is too loose then the inner part of the bearing will get pushed to one side putting all the thrust on the side walls of the bearing.
Yes deffinately a fine line.(or gap)

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post #10 of 11 Old 07-17-2007, 09:36 PM
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I had a Nice pretty set of forged aluminums. Beautiful sexy and all things good life is great. I can drag knee in parking lots and every time I look at it a ray of light comes down from the sky's illuminating my Ninja.

Then I hear bang bang bang.

SHREDDED bearings

Improper spacer.

0510R PCIII dyno tuned 520 X -1+2 sprockets. slip on and a few other Knick Knacks filter plugs emissions dyno tune. And 20,000 miles of learning on this one anyways.
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