rear spring?? - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 21 Old 01-12-2005, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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rear spring??

hi im a light weight guy. i only weigh 120 lbs. and the stock set up is for 150 rider. well i was looking through the owner manual and it didnt give me specs. on it. i adjusted the front and rear rebound and compression. not sure what specs are for the rear preload. when i set on the bike it doesnt even move down at all. so any help will greatly be appreciated. thanks
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post #2 of 21 Old 01-12-2005, 08:49 PM
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25mm rider sag




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post #3 of 21 Old 01-12-2005, 08:53 PM
 
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My guess is that you'll need the rear preload just about all the way out. It's easier to adjust if you take the shock off first.
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post #4 of 21 Old 01-12-2005, 08:53 PM
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Or close to 30 mm for the street. Mine is at 29 and it feels fine.
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post #5 of 21 Old 01-12-2005, 08:59 PM
 
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Would anyone care to comment if the front end got more or less stable when they backed off on the preload? It stands to reason that it would get more stable since the rake would be more conservative.
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post #6 of 21 Old 01-12-2005, 09:41 PM
 
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set the sag on both front and rear with full gear on. Mine is set at 32mm
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post #7 of 21 Old 01-13-2005, 09:59 AM
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moved to tech
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post #8 of 21 Old 01-13-2005, 10:53 AM
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Typically (and i mean typically) good reputable baseline sag #'s for the majority of street bikes is 33-35mm front with 30-32mm rear.

There is an internal bottoming cone in the forks that create problems for those wanting to use the 33-35mm of total sag settings in that when the forks compress heavilly under load and get to the bottom of the stroke they get very firm very fast, hence no travel left, hence fall down go boom boom (not good) so setting the total sag # near 30-32mm with preload works much better with respect to the bottoming cone, now what is not good at these settings is the front of the bike is raised due to preload being dialed in so one choice you have to counteract this is you can either raise the tubes in the triple clamp/s an additional 1-2mm over stock or raise the rear if your so inclined.
Top Shelf has had his share of experience with these types of geometry changes on the 10 so he can shed more technical light then i if he wonders through here.

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post #9 of 21 Old 01-13-2005, 12:13 PM
 
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Top Shelf, will tell you what he told me, get the spring rate correct before touching anything. The valving in the rear shock is off for most and requires the compression almost totally backed out, this could be because of spring rate, but why not just get the thing revalved when it is resprung or replace with suitable replacement.
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post #10 of 21 Old 01-17-2005, 02:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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thank you all for your help... im gona try out the sag setting u all gave me.. ill let u know how it did. once again.. thank you all so much for your help.
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