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post #1 of 6 Old 05-04-2008, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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quick shifter question

I just installed the quick shifter and left it at the normal 65 ms setting and 4000 rpm shift point. I tried it out and it works okay sometimes and shitty at other times. I have to pull up hard as hell before it shifts with out the clutch. I know it needs to be adjusted so thats why im here asking those who have one. Do i need to adjust the length of the rod or change the ms? TIA
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post #2 of 6 Old 05-04-2008, 02:11 PM
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I had initial problems with mine also. Try bumping your rpm tp 7k. I did this and it stopped the problems I was having in low gears of bucking and hard shifting. Also I went to 60ms and that was easily to do. The mainm thing was the higher 7k is better. Anything below that just seems to cause problems in low gears.
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-04-2008, 02:30 PM
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i have mine at 70 and and once you bump up the rpm you shopuld be good

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post #4 of 6 Old 05-04-2008, 04:17 PM
 
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Quick-shifters are intended to operate at WOT, at high-rpm. Am I understanding that you're using it at 4krpm? or did you just set the minimum there?
In any event, you don't have a whole lot of time to get your kill time set right. It's easy to damage your trans quickly if you're not unloading it enough (not enough kill time)
Bascially, if you experience "notchy" and difficulty getting it shifted, you don't have enough kill time. Too much kill time is pretty self evident, because you can feel the bike jerk. The old DJ quick-shifters only gave you one setting for all the gears. The new(er) units let you adjust for all the gears, like kit ECU's do. The taller the gear, the less kill-time you need, and being able to run varying kill times is benificial for you and your trans.
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-04-2008, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Advanced Kawasaki View Post
Quick-shifters are intended to operate at WOT, at high-rpm. Am I understanding that you're using it at 4krpm? or did you just set the minimum there?
In any event, you don't have a whole lot of time to get your kill time set right. It's easy to damage your trans quickly if you're not unloading it enough (not enough kill time)
Bascially, if you experience "notchy" and difficulty getting it shifted, you don't have enough kill time. Too much kill time is pretty self evident, because you can feel the bike jerk. The old DJ quick-shifters only gave you one setting for all the gears. The new(er) units let you adjust for all the gears, like kit ECU's do. The taller the gear, the less kill-time you need, and being able to run varying kill times is benificial for you and your trans.
I intially set it up for 4k just for the hell of it. I changed it to 7k for now and will see how it reacts. I was going to use the quick shifter for cruising around town as well as for racing.Thanks for the input fellows!
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-04-2008, 11:17 PM
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+1 for Advance Kawi there.... the thing is only really meant for high-rpm, full throttle shifting. Stick with that, and it should be smooth as butter.

I obviously can't speak for all bikes, but you do have a fairly good window with the 06/07 10R as far as the kill-time goes. I found anything between 50ms-85ms felt identical, and had the best consistency (times and wanting to go into gear). Anything more than 90-100 started to get "jerky" as AK described, and anything less would make it "notchy" (again, good description) and increase the chance of it catching a flase neutral or just not wanting to shift at all. :)

G'luck.... make sure you find some place nice and deserted to test that thing out; it can be pretty distracting at first. :)

Attack life... it's going to kill you anyway.
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