Questions on brakes/retainers/clutches - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-25-2014, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Questions on brakes/retainers/clutches

I have been using the search function all morning and cannot get definitive answers to my questions. Here they are:

When replacing rotors..do both front ones at the same time...and rear? Or no? I ride an 06' zx10r and I definitely notice the squishy/shitty brake issues everyone has and I want to replace the calipers and rotors. I know the zx14r calipers (nissin) for the front are a direct fit, are they as well for the rear? Should I be looking for a rear caliper too? Can the replacement be done without a torque wrench? What brand rotors/pads would everyone suggest, I am not looking to do any track riding or racing, just want decent cruising around and some mildy hard riding upgrades.

My other question has to do with the valve spring retainers. I called a local dealer and they said that replacing the retainers would be a 10+ hour job due to having to remove the engine, is that actually necessary? I have read a couple different threads, one said they removed the engine to do the job the other said it wasn't necessary..? The APE titanium retainers are almost $300, are there cheaper titanium retainers that will do the job and not be a risk to my bike like the stock ones?

And lastly, this one isn't a big deal I can get used to it..however if I can change it I will! My last 2 bikes clutches would start to engage at about 1/4 of the way out from the grip, my new zx10 engages at about 3/4 of the way out from the grip..is that normal?


bonus question, feel free to send me searching as I have not looked this one up yet.... =D
I would like to change my sprockets and chain as well..any special tools needed or can I do it with a socket set..?


Thank you thank you in advance!!
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-25-2014, 01:51 PM
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unless ur rotors are warped u don't need to change them. I use EBC or galfer pads on mine, and a braided line. u can get the Brembo MC and it'll be like squeezing a rock. There's not much of an issue with the rear brake, just the front as it handles most of the stopping ability.

You don't need to remove the motor to do the valves and retainers, u can just remove the head studs and slide it out, but ull need a valve spring compressor tool or if ur in a rush; a socket, extension, and dead blow can do the trick. I have the stock retainers in my 06 still and they're holding so far, but APE retainers are meant for a double spring( at least mine were. which is why I still have stock retainers).

If u want the clutch to engage sooner, adjust it down by the cover by tightening the nuts(righty tighty on both sides) on the threaded part of the cable so that the clutch armature moves to the left and then tighten the nuts back against the cable holder. Hope that made sense.

to do sprockets you'll need a 27mm 6pt socket, 1/2in breaker bar, needle nose pliers for cotter pin, I think 14mm socket for sprocket bolts, and a 2x4 through the wheel and swing arm to keep it from spinning when u loosen the front sprocket which is a whore the first time around


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in reference to the man card issue, let me clarify it for everyone, " If a man builds a 1000 bridges and sucks one cock, that doesnt make him a bridge builder, it makes him a cock sucker..."
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-25-2014, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the reply! The reason why I was looking into replacing the front rotors is that when coming to a stop there is an uneven feel to it. When stopping hard it feels like the pad is hitting it in one spot only then letting go, if that makes sense? The guy I got the bike off of says he thought the right rotor was warped a bit.

Do you think it would be worth it to change out the retainers to possibly avoid that little (big) issue?
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-25-2014, 02:06 PM
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I take it u mean it feels like the lever is pulsing in ur hand? If so yea I'd def change the rotors. Otherwise no matter hhat u put on its still gona suck

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Originally Posted by nakedinseattle View Post
in reference to the man card issue, let me clarify it for everyone, " If a man builds a 1000 bridges and sucks one cock, that doesnt make him a bridge builder, it makes him a cock sucker..."
My bike is the fattest and slowest of all the G2s
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-25-2014, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noahrr25 View Post
When replacing rotors..do both front ones at the same time...and rear? Or no? I ride an 06' zx10r and I definitely notice the squishy/shitty brake issues everyone has and I want to replace the calipers and rotors. I know the zx14r calipers (nissin) for the front are a direct fit, are they as well for the rear? Should I be looking for a rear caliper too? Can the replacement be done without a torque wrench? What brand rotors/pads would everyone suggest, I am not looking to do any track riding or racing, just want decent cruising around and some mildy hard riding upgrades.
Why replace the rotors? If they're not bent or below the service limit for thickness, leave them alone and just bolt up the ZX-14 Nissins.

Yes, the fronts should be replaced together if you were to replace them.

No, the rear ZX-14 caliper is not a direct fit so leave the rear alone.

You should use a regular socket wrench to do the replacement and use a torque wrench to verify the bolt tightness.

OEM pads are the best for the ZX-14 calipers as Vesrah doesn't make them that I'm aware of. EBC/Galfer are cheap, but suck. Stick with OEM for a good mix of performance for the money.

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Originally Posted by noahrr25 View Post
My other question has to do with the valve spring retainers. I called a local dealer and they said that replacing the retainers would be a 10+ hour job due to having to remove the engine, is that actually necessary? I have read a couple different threads, one said they removed the engine to do the job the other said it wasn't necessary..? The APE titanium retainers are almost $300, are there cheaper titanium retainers that will do the job and not be a risk to my bike like the stock ones?
Removing the engine is the easiest way to do it, but not necessary. Access is limited if left in the frame.

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Originally Posted by noahrr25 View Post
And lastly, this one isn't a big deal I can get used to it..however if I can change it I will! My last 2 bikes clutches would start to engage at about 1/4 of the way out from the grip, my new zx10 engages at about 3/4 of the way out from the grip..is that normal?
Normal. Sounds like your last 2 bikes were the issue and out of adjustment, not this one. The clutch should engage/disengage near the end of the lever travel.

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Originally Posted by noahrr25 View Post
bonus question, feel free to send me searching as I have not looked this one up yet.... =D
I would like to change my sprockets and chain as well..any special tools needed or can I do it with a socket set..?

Impact wrench for the front sprocket nut.

Thank you thank you in advance!!

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post #6 of 16 Old 06-25-2014, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noahrr25 View Post
Thank you for the reply! The reason why I was looking into replacing the front rotors is that when coming to a stop there is an uneven feel to it. When stopping hard it feels like the pad is hitting it in one spot only then letting go, if that makes sense? The guy I got the bike off of says he thought the right rotor was warped a bit.
This is that the rotor is warped. Unless it was dropped or hit, a single, solid, semi-floating rotor is not gonna warp under normal use.

Most likely what you're feeling is uneven pad distribution on the rotor surface from the pads left clamped to the rotor when hot or from sitting and rusting on the rotor. Install the new calipers and pads and use them to resurface the rotor itself. This requires 10-15 medium to hard stops without actually coming to a complete stop. Similar to the pad bed-in procedure for new pads.

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post #7 of 16 Old 06-25-2014, 02:12 PM
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http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

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post #8 of 16 Old 08-11-2014, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Rather than starting a new thread I will ask here (its relevant). Is there a spot online that shows all the torque values? I have the owners manual but it says to consult my kawi dealer on the torque values, I would like to know so that I can replace my front brakes..

2006 Black ZX10R : Galfer braided steel lines, Brembo rcs19 Master w/ Brembo reservoir and shorty lever, CRG RC2 Shorty clutch lever, Shogun bar ends, K&N Air/Oil filters, Motionpro Throttle cables, Nissin zx14 calipers, carbon lorraine pads, Galfer Wave rotors front/rear, -1+2 vortex, Black EK chain, Speedo Tuner

Soon to be added : APE CCT

Wanted for future : Woolich ECU, Attack rearsets, 35k HIDs, TIForce Slipons, APE Tit. retainers, Rifleman throttle mod, Smog blocks
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post #9 of 16 Old 08-11-2014, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noahrr25 View Post
Rather than starting a new thread I will ask here (its relevant). Is there a spot online that shows all the torque values? I have the owners manual but it says to consult my kawi dealer on the torque values, I would like to know so that I can replace my front brakes..

No. The service manual lists all torques needed and is the best reference.


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post #10 of 16 Old 08-11-2014, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Alright so I replaced my throttle cables with motionpro cables and they are stickier than my stock ones! My stock ones had a giant kink in the return line causing my throttle to stick open, I could physically feel the resistance when I took them out. After installing the new ones I made sure everything was nice and straight, even curves not bent around anything the grip is not rubbing at all there is visible space in between..It sticks like crazy! its even hard to twist the throttle open. Any suggestions? The cables moved perfectly find before the install..

2006 Black ZX10R : Galfer braided steel lines, Brembo rcs19 Master w/ Brembo reservoir and shorty lever, CRG RC2 Shorty clutch lever, Shogun bar ends, K&N Air/Oil filters, Motionpro Throttle cables, Nissin zx14 calipers, carbon lorraine pads, Galfer Wave rotors front/rear, -1+2 vortex, Black EK chain, Speedo Tuner

Soon to be added : APE CCT

Wanted for future : Woolich ECU, Attack rearsets, 35k HIDs, TIForce Slipons, APE Tit. retainers, Rifleman throttle mod, Smog blocks
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