Join Date: May 2004
Location: Toronto, Canada
Often the trouble is that there is a bubble trapped at the top of the brake lines, right at the connection to the master cylinder. If there's no bubbles coming out at the bottom, then this is probably the cause.
Remember that liquid wants to go DOWN by gravity, and air bubbles wants to go UP! The shop-manual-recommended method of bleeding brakes at the bottom is fighting gravity.
To fix: Unbolt the master cylinder from the handlebar, and hold it so that the banjo bolt is tipped down towards the front and also so that the lever end of the master cylinder is angled upward. Now, air bubbles that want to go UP, can go UP through the banjo bolt and UP through the master cylinder and UP through the little hose to the reservoir (and you might have to detach the reservoir from the master cylinder itself to do this last part). To get the air bubbles to go ... wiggle the brake lever, and keep doing it. Sometimes it can take a while.
If air bubbles are really persistent and don't respond to the above treatment, unbolt the brake calipers from the forks and have an assistant push the pistons back while you hold the master cylinder in the above orientation. This *forces* the fluid, with the air bubbles on top, back through the master cylinder. Do this to both calipers, then re-attach them, squeeze and release brake lever a few times and see what happens.
Another thing ... after your first ride, or after the bike does a trip in the trailer, repeat the above process. Vibration from moving tends to work the air bubbles to the high spots.
Helibars, MRA screen, Ohlins damper, reversed shift pattern, sorted suspension, braided lines, Michelin Pilot Power, all else stock 'coz it's fast enough!
Last edited by GoFaster; 03-06-2005 at 02:08 PM.