Well I have been using the OEM Ohlins damper on the 2nd and 3rd gens now for 3 seasons using 15wt fork oil and have not had any problems with tank slappers or leaking. I have a hard time leaving well enough alone
So seeing as my bike is in storage for the winter I thought I would change the fluid out and as I was emptying the damper I thought "why not make it the real thing".
After reading about sending the damper off to Kyle Racing or PPS I thought that this would be a pretty simple thing to do myself after speaking to a suspension guy near the city that is the US equivalent to Kyle, Race Tech etc. The OEM needle is identical to the needle that you can buy from suspension shops WITH the exception that it has 3 holes drilled into it so that when the needle it tightened all the way and closes the tube off it allows fluid to go through the holes and prevent the full stiffness that off the shelf dampers provide.
So as I had the damper apart I disassembled the other end where the adhuster knob is and once I removed the C clip I had access to the needle. I removed the needle and cleaned it with brake cleaner and some degreaser, washed it with dish soap and finally some more brake cleaner. I soldered the little hole drilled into the needle and let the solder cool for an hour. I covered the solder with 2 part epoxy (oil resistant) and let it sit over night to properly cure. After re assmebling the damper and bleeding it with 5wt Ohlins oil I have finally realized that on full tight it would barely move and take a hell of a lot of force!
Now the whole point of doing this was not to ride around with the damper on full stiff but to ease the pressure on the seals from using a heavier oil that was never intended to be used (although it has been fine for 3 yrs with 15 wt), The other main fix was that since the damper is now properly "valved" that it would function the way it was intended to. I can now move the damper easily side to side with 12 clicks off full stiff but the moment I grab the bars and slap them side to side to simulate a tank slapper then it becomes obvious that this fix has cured something that using heavier wt oil could never do........it got more resistant to that fast side to side movement yet still moved easily when using a strong counter steering input, I guess it's called "active" like what Hyperpro says about their dampers.
Using the heavier oil method, you could feel the damper just felt heavy and sluggish and with this method I just used, it moves freely to allow you to steer yet start to resist when you need it to! The best part is that is cost me $0! If you are not mechanically inclined and get skittish when little parts are all over then send it off to get re done, BUT those of you that are into this kind of thing like I am........this will give you that warm fuzzy feeling all over! Either way by fixing the needle inside the damper, this thing works like it was intended to, man I can't wait til spring!
Here is a pic of the internals of the damper.....
08 10R Pearl Wildfire Orange
Akra slip on W/Link Pipe, Ohlins R&T Forks, Ohlins 46PRXLS, Attack Rearsets, Guhl ECU Reflash, Ivan's Block Offs, Pazzo Levers, Goodridge Carbo Brake Lines, Vesrah RJL Pads, Riflemans 1/5 Throttle Insert, R & G Sliders & Engine Guards, Puig Z Screen, Puig Hugger, Evotech 1/4 turn gas cap