Ohlins damper fix!!! - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 92 Old 10-30-2008, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Ohlins damper fix!!!

Well I have been using the OEM Ohlins damper on the 2nd and 3rd gens now for 3 seasons using 15wt fork oil and have not had any problems with tank slappers or leaking. I have a hard time leaving well enough alone So seeing as my bike is in storage for the winter I thought I would change the fluid out and as I was emptying the damper I thought "why not make it the real thing".

After reading about sending the damper off to Kyle Racing or PPS I thought that this would be a pretty simple thing to do myself after speaking to a suspension guy near the city that is the US equivalent to Kyle, Race Tech etc. The OEM needle is identical to the needle that you can buy from suspension shops WITH the exception that it has 3 holes drilled into it so that when the needle it tightened all the way and closes the tube off it allows fluid to go through the holes and prevent the full stiffness that off the shelf dampers provide.

So as I had the damper apart I disassembled the other end where the adhuster knob is and once I removed the C clip I had access to the needle. I removed the needle and cleaned it with brake cleaner and some degreaser, washed it with dish soap and finally some more brake cleaner. I soldered the little hole drilled into the needle and let the solder cool for an hour. I covered the solder with 2 part epoxy (oil resistant) and let it sit over night to properly cure. After re assmebling the damper and bleeding it with 5wt Ohlins oil I have finally realized that on full tight it would barely move and take a hell of a lot of force!

Now the whole point of doing this was not to ride around with the damper on full stiff but to ease the pressure on the seals from using a heavier oil that was never intended to be used (although it has been fine for 3 yrs with 15 wt), The other main fix was that since the damper is now properly "valved" that it would function the way it was intended to. I can now move the damper easily side to side with 12 clicks off full stiff but the moment I grab the bars and slap them side to side to simulate a tank slapper then it becomes obvious that this fix has cured something that using heavier wt oil could never do........it got more resistant to that fast side to side movement yet still moved easily when using a strong counter steering input, I guess it's called "active" like what Hyperpro says about their dampers.

Using the heavier oil method, you could feel the damper just felt heavy and sluggish and with this method I just used, it moves freely to allow you to steer yet start to resist when you need it to! The best part is that is cost me $0! If you are not mechanically inclined and get skittish when little parts are all over then send it off to get re done, BUT those of you that are into this kind of thing like I am........this will give you that warm fuzzy feeling all over! Either way by fixing the needle inside the damper, this thing works like it was intended to, man I can't wait til spring!

Here is a pic of the internals of the damper.....


Sean

08 10R Pearl Wildfire Orange

Akra slip on W/Link Pipe, Ohlins R&T Forks, Ohlins 46PRXLS, Attack Rearsets, Guhl ECU Reflash, Ivan's Block Offs, Pazzo Levers, Goodridge Carbo Brake Lines, Vesrah RJL Pads, Riflemans 1/5 Throttle Insert, R & G Sliders & Engine Guards, Puig Z Screen, Puig Hugger, Evotech 1/4 turn gas cap


Last edited by ninja44; 01-18-2009 at 01:05 AM.
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post #2 of 92 Old 10-30-2008, 09:53 PM
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nice, i was just about to send mine off to have that done, but if its that simple i think ill just save the money and give it a shot. How long did the process take you?

Why are we posting when we could be Riding?
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post #3 of 92 Old 10-30-2008, 10:47 PM
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Nice work Sean - PM me your address and I will shipping mine up to you for your services.

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post #4 of 92 Old 10-30-2008, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Alien10 View Post
Nice work Sean - PM me your address and I will shipping mine up to you for your services.

How much you wanna charge??



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post #5 of 92 Old 10-31-2008, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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All in all it took me about 2 hrs + the time to let it cure, I took my time and made sure it was done right and it was a kind of "install in reverse order" lol. If you don't want to do the soldering work you can always order the Ohlins needle from Kyle and install it yourself and save $80. I'm just the kind of guy that would rather do it myself if I can, I hate other people working on my bike or car unless absolutely necessary

Sean

08 10R Pearl Wildfire Orange

Akra slip on W/Link Pipe, Ohlins R&T Forks, Ohlins 46PRXLS, Attack Rearsets, Guhl ECU Reflash, Ivan's Block Offs, Pazzo Levers, Goodridge Carbo Brake Lines, Vesrah RJL Pads, Riflemans 1/5 Throttle Insert, R & G Sliders & Engine Guards, Puig Z Screen, Puig Hugger, Evotech 1/4 turn gas cap

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post #6 of 92 Old 10-31-2008, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Nice work Sean - PM me your address and I will shipping mine up to you for your services.
PM me later tonight, we shall talk

Sean

08 10R Pearl Wildfire Orange

Akra slip on W/Link Pipe, Ohlins R&T Forks, Ohlins 46PRXLS, Attack Rearsets, Guhl ECU Reflash, Ivan's Block Offs, Pazzo Levers, Goodridge Carbo Brake Lines, Vesrah RJL Pads, Riflemans 1/5 Throttle Insert, R & G Sliders & Engine Guards, Puig Z Screen, Puig Hugger, Evotech 1/4 turn gas cap

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post #7 of 92 Old 10-31-2008, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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nice, i was just about to send mine off to have that done, but if its that simple i think ill just save the money and give it a shot. How long did the process take you?
Might as well, it's really not that hard. If worst comes to worst, send the damper and pieces off to get done if you can't finish it off.

Oh for those that want to give this a shot, Ohlins uses 2.5 wt oil in the dampers but 5 wt will work as well.

Sean

08 10R Pearl Wildfire Orange

Akra slip on W/Link Pipe, Ohlins R&T Forks, Ohlins 46PRXLS, Attack Rearsets, Guhl ECU Reflash, Ivan's Block Offs, Pazzo Levers, Goodridge Carbo Brake Lines, Vesrah RJL Pads, Riflemans 1/5 Throttle Insert, R & G Sliders & Engine Guards, Puig Z Screen, Puig Hugger, Evotech 1/4 turn gas cap

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post #8 of 92 Old 10-31-2008, 12:01 PM
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I thought the damper had to be filled under pressure or pressure sealed?

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post #9 of 92 Old 10-31-2008, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Nope:headshake The very first time you put fluid in is the most critical I guess. Take your time and pump the hell out of it at that point. The reservoir where the sponge piece goes in should only be filled half way as this is the area where the expanded fluid drains to.

Sean

08 10R Pearl Wildfire Orange

Akra slip on W/Link Pipe, Ohlins R&T Forks, Ohlins 46PRXLS, Attack Rearsets, Guhl ECU Reflash, Ivan's Block Offs, Pazzo Levers, Goodridge Carbo Brake Lines, Vesrah RJL Pads, Riflemans 1/5 Throttle Insert, R & G Sliders & Engine Guards, Puig Z Screen, Puig Hugger, Evotech 1/4 turn gas cap

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post #10 of 92 Old 10-31-2008, 12:26 PM
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I thought the damper had to be filled under pressure or pressure sealed?
It doesnt need pressure, it just needs to be 100% oil and no air , to stop frothing.
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