Need some opinions on the VALVE ADJUSTMENT - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 12-10-2009, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Need some opinions on the VALVE ADJUSTMENT

Hey guys, so im doing the dreaded valve adjustments now and have a few q's.

ALL of my Exhaust valves are out of spec (normal is .17mm-.22mm) Mine are:

.15+/.15+/////////.15+/.15+/////////.15+/.15+/////////.13+.13+


Here are the intake (normal are .15-.24mm). Mine are

.15+/.20/////////.20+/.20+//////////.18+/.18+//////////.15+/.15+


Obviously the intakes are all "within" spec. But should i just increase the gaps on the .15+ to atleast .18+?



Also, was it dangerous to have .13+ on the exhaust side? Possible broken retainers?
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post #2 of 7 Old 12-10-2009, 10:33 PM
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Here's what the "best" thing to do is. Put all of them in the middle of your range...that way you have some breathing room and may not have to have any adjustments next time around. I've also had hardcores tell me to put them all on the loose end...it wouldn't hurt and give you even more breathing room. As to running it on .13 I wouldn't worry too much unless you're way late on your valve job, redline constantly and ride her extremely hard...and even them it's probably no big deal. .13 is just a hair tight....no real worries.

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post #3 of 7 Old 12-10-2009, 10:43 PM
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Funny you have questions because I do too....like how many miles do you have on your bike , what's your mechanical experience/tools/method to check etc. ...just find it weird ONLY exhaust is out and intake is hunky dory
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post #4 of 7 Old 12-10-2009, 10:47 PM
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moved to performance and tech.....please open threads in the appropriate section.

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post #5 of 7 Old 12-11-2009, 06:39 AM
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IMHO you're fine, the #4 exhaust is the only thing I would worry about, unless you have the shims you need on hand, then put them all in the middle of the range while it's apart.

Supersport teams often run lash very tight to increase lift and duration, but that's a race situation, not something you would do on the street. As long as the valve still seats fully at running temp, it will run fine and not hurt anything. A little too tight and the valve will remain slightly open during combustion, you will lose power, and eventually burn the seat.
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post #6 of 7 Old 12-11-2009, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluedevil View Post
Funny you have questions because I do too....like how many miles do you have on your bike , what's your mechanical experience/tools/method to check etc. ...just find it weird ONLY exhaust is out and intake is hunky dory
I used a set of feeler gauges in metric. i have .13, .15, .18, .20, and .23. The bike has approx 13k miles on as of now. As for experience, i think i have a quite good understanding of what im doing. Ive amateurishly worked on cars before and both of my bikes.



I will pull the shims today and calculate the new shims i need. And then, and then i will be begging for the forum members to trade shims with me


Thanks for info guys
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post #7 of 7 Old 12-11-2009, 02:05 PM
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this might help http://www.cyclebuy.com/shopping/hot...imkits_948.htm
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Last edited by 11ute; 12-11-2009 at 02:44 PM.
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