Need Power, Parts, and what really works - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 15 Old 05-14-2007, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Need Power, Parts, and what really works

I am new to the ZX-10R and need some real info with proof to back up any claims. What is a good exhaust to install? Is it worth the extra money to install a full system? I currently have a Muzzy Carbon SO installed (on the bike when I bought it). Also is the really a difference between K&N & BMC to justify the extra money for the BMC? I have read about the Kawy race intake cam but is there any mods that need to be done to the engine for this cam to work properly (new or better springs or port work)? I want more speed without a dependabilty problem. Please no hate mail, I'm new and have to ask so money is not wasted on the wrong parts.
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post #2 of 15 Old 05-14-2007, 10:22 PM
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post #3 of 15 Old 05-15-2007, 09:07 AM
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post #4 of 15 Old 05-15-2007, 09:52 PM
 
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Ok, I guess the question here is how much power are you looking to get? What are you doing that you need more power? Where do you want more power? Low end, mid-range, top end?

Will a full system make more power? Sure, how much more? Not a whole lot, maybe 2-4 hp more. It is usually the weight savings that a full system brings that helps. Now, I haven't looked at the 10's stock exhaust (as mine is still stock) compared to a full system yet...and really I don't need to. The bike has all the power I need, and then some. When you go to a full, you ditch the converter...so as long as you don't have any type of emissions testing in your area, you will be ok. What you didn't mention having on your bike is a way to control your fuel delivery. Noticeable gains can be had by properly tuning a fuel curve (and no, most people who run dynos can't get every bit of power out of a bike). Another item that would help greatly in your search for every higher hp numbers would be an ignition module or advancer. Kawasaki has always left power on the drawing table by keeping timing on the soft side. More than likely it is to keep emissions in check, but either way, bumping up timing will help power throughout the RPM range. As for your filter question, I don't believe in many aftermarket filters. Being a diesel truck guy, I have stumbled across enough proof that most oiled cotton filters have increased flow numbers, because they do not filter air as well (filtration is sacrificed for flow). I don't know about you, but I will keep a stock filter, even if it is costing me an extra 1-2 hp on the very top of the RPM range. Last but not least...cams. You state that you don't want to hurt reliability. Cams will not normally hurt reliability...but ride-ability usually suffers. Race cams will take away bottom end punch, and some mid range power to give you maximum hp at high revs. Great for a race track...but very bad for the street.
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post #5 of 15 Old 05-15-2007, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by Kawtipping View Post
Ok, I guess the question here is how much power are you looking to get? What are you doing that you need more power? Where do you want more power? Low end, mid-range, top end?

Will a full system make more power? Sure, how much more? Not a whole lot, maybe 2-4 hp more. It is usually the weight savings that a full system brings that helps. Now, I haven't looked at the 10's stock exhaust (as mine is still stock) compared to a full system yet...and really I don't need to. The bike has all the power I need, and then some. When you go to a full, you ditch the converter...so as long as you don't have any type of emissions testing in your area, you will be ok. What you didn't mention having on your bike is a way to control your fuel delivery. Noticeable gains can be had by properly tuning a fuel curve (and no, most people who run dynos can't get every bit of power out of a bike). Another item that would help greatly in your search for every higher hp numbers would be an ignition module or advancer. Kawasaki has always left power on the drawing table by keeping timing on the soft side. More than likely it is to keep emissions in check, but either way, bumping up timing will help power throughout the RPM range. As for your filter question, I don't believe in many aftermarket filters. Being a diesel truck guy, I have stumbled across enough proof that most oiled cotton filters have increased flow numbers, because they do not filter air as well (filtration is sacrificed for flow). I don't know about you, but I will keep a stock filter, even if it is costing me an extra 1-2 hp on the very top of the RPM range. Last but not least...cams. You state that you don't want to hurt reliability. Cams will not normally hurt reliability...but ride-ability usually suffers. Race cams will take away bottom end punch, and some mid range power to give you maximum hp at high revs. Great for a race track...but very bad for the street.
Monday night I ordered my Power Commander so as soon as it arrives I will install it with atleast a K&N filter (27.00 vrs BMC 65-75.00). I have enough bottom end because if I give it more than 1/2 throttle in gears 1 thru 3 the front tire goes airborne. The previous owner dropped 2 teeth on the front sprocket. I probably won't install cams and end up with a Arata full system w/ short can. I am looking for 160-170 rwhp.
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post #6 of 15 Old 05-15-2007, 10:24 PM
 
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Unless you need a new air filter, I would stick with the stock. I think people fall into the marketing hype that is K&N. And now that everyone is brainwashed, other companies are selling something that is the same, only different. Actually, I have not heard a ton on the BMCs. Though what I have heard has been good. They actually offer a race and a street filter. My guess is one flows more, while the other stops more dirt.

Get your PC3 tuned by a good shop. I would suggest someone using a Factory Pro dyno...check out their site and you can read up on the differences. www.factorypro.com
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post #7 of 15 Old 05-15-2007, 10:40 PM
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Stay with the stock filter.
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post #8 of 15 Old 05-15-2007, 11:02 PM
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read hills post in the zx-10r section, and use the search button. that'll keep you from getting chewed out by some guys on the forum...

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post #9 of 15 Old 05-15-2007, 11:16 PM
 
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Originally Posted by firemedic1343 View Post
Stay with the stock filter.
+2 Unless your gonna get a D.N.A. filter. If you decide (which i didnt read) to throw in the Kawi race cam, get it degreed, custom mapped, and for fucks sake buy retiners and valve springs. Mine blew out, maybe im runnin my bike harder, not sure.
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post #10 of 15 Old 05-16-2007, 07:19 AM
 
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My advice would be add one tooth back up front. a -2 up front is making your bikes first two gears for street riding (not stunting or racing) useless. Also making your 6th gear virtually like 5th gear. If you want a fast bike you are going to have bikes like new 600's roar up on you with that gearing during top end stints (if thats your mojo).

As for the slip on vs the full pipe. Yea, that slip on isn't going to give you much hp alone; if any. With a PC, maybe a couple (2-4). A full system with no pc and you may lose power, but with the PC you could get darn near 10 hp some claim more. But i think 8-10 is safe to say in most cases on a good tune.

I would stick with a Oem airfilter until your stocker wears out. Then get a KN just because you can reuse it. I think the whole power hype is just that "hype"

As for timing, if you bump it you will need to run higher octane fuel to stop pre-det.

Good pipe and PC and all the other little bolt on mods and close to 165 or so is in reach.
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