NEED HELP! Gen I dying on me - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-06-2010, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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NEED HELP! Gen I dying on me

Hey guys, I am in need of help. I just got off my 12 hour rotation at 7 am this morning. I walked out, started my bike, chit-chatted with a few co-workers, gave the bike a little gas, and it died. The lights, guages, everything died. Upon investigation I found the 30 amp fuse going to my main power cable to the batter was blown. No biggy, popped the spare in, started it, 2 minutes later, exact same thing. The only thing I have touched since the last time riding was installing my DDM 55w 6k HIDs. BUT I rode 15-20 miles to work with no problems. So, I replaced the fuse again, unhooked the HIDs, started the bike, put in gear, drove about 20 yards, and it died. I had to come home and get some sleep, its safe/secure and well guarded at work, so I caught a ride. I have to get some sleep before work tonight, so if you could please lend any and all suggestions or comments, I will read and respond sometime after lunch when I wake up. I cant imagine too many things it could be, but I will be open to any help. Thanks for your time and consideration!!!

Yoshimura TRC slip ons, PC III, Sato sliders, Zero Gravity DB screen...
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post #2 of 8 Old 07-06-2010, 10:18 AM
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Rectifiers/regulators burn out often and easily (not bike specific - they all seem to be near junk these days). That would be the first spot I would look at.
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post #3 of 8 Old 07-06-2010, 10:46 AM
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I HATE electrical problems.

Blown fuse almost always indicates a ground fault somewhere. (A piece of insulation has rubbed against something and come in contact, etc.) The tricky bit is finding it.

The good thing about it blowing that frequently is that it will help you find the fault. I had one on a previous bike that was bugging me for about a year because it would go weeks or months between blowing. I finally fixed it when it blew while the bike was idling in the driveway.

The first thing to do is to find out which circuit is involved - and unplugging your HID lamps was a start, because aftermarket stuff is always first suspect. How are those lamps fused? If they use an in-line fuse straight from the battery so that their power doesn't go through the main fuse then they are unlikely to be the culprit. If they draw power after the main fuse (e.g. at the starter solenoid terminal) then they are still a possibility. Disconnect the HID power wire straight at the source and see what happens.

If that's not the problem then rule out other circuits. Pull all the fuses except those necessary for the engine to run (ignition, EFI). Unplug the voltage regulator. Start the engine and see what happens. Then start plugging stuff in one at a time.

Most likely, the ground fault will be in a circuit NOT protected by one of the smaller fuses. (A fault in one of those circuits would most likely blow the smaller fuse first.) If you look at the wiring diagram, there's not a whole lot of possibilities. BUT ... The white wire from the starter relay to "joint connector 4" and then back to the fuse box power supply and to the ignition switch is unswitched (constant battery power) and is only on the main fuse. The wiring from the ignition switch that is fed from "white" (e.g. brown, red) when you turn the key on, is only on the main fuse. That wiring goes back to the fusebox and only beyond that point, is it protected by the smaller fuses.

You may have to tear the bike apart sufficiently to be able to inspect the wiring harness stem to stern for places where the insulation might be damaged.

Been there (on previous bike). Wasn't fun. But, I found the fault and fixed it, and rerouted the harness to prevent it from happening again, and it was never a problem again.


Helibars, MRA screen, Ohlins damper, reversed shift pattern, sorted suspension, braided lines, Michelin Pilot Power, all else stock 'coz it's fast enough!
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post #4 of 8 Old 07-06-2010, 11:26 AM
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stalling

what go faster said, and it can be a pita.
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-06-2010, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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cockyrooster, it starts up perfectly everytime you change the fuse, which would rule out an battery/charging/power management. GoFaster, the ground fault idea was what we were thinking too, but didnt have the proper tools to tear into her. We are gonna get on that on "company time" as soon as we get there. As you also said, its not very complicated, so I dont have a ton of places to look. One quick question, my buddy at worked walked out to have a quick peak, he said my "lean angle switch"(kickstand down, bike cuts off) whatever its called, is gone. I still have the sensor, just not the part that connects to the kickstand itself. That wouldnt be killing the bike like this right? Thanks again GoFaster...REP

Yoshimura TRC slip ons, PC III, Sato sliders, Zero Gravity DB screen...
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-07-2010, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: Not sure what the problem was, I removed the HIDs for now, no problems on the way home. About a 20 miles ride. I will trouble shoot at a later date when I have the time. The HIDs were working fine, they still work, so I am lost right now

Yoshimura TRC slip ons, PC III, Sato sliders, Zero Gravity DB screen...
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-07-2010, 11:40 AM
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I had the same problem,turned out to be the harness connector below the left handle bar.Was'nt getting contact
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-07-2010, 12:11 PM
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It is possible that the jiggling and wiggling may have pulled the offending rubbed-through wire away from whatever it was grounding against.


Helibars, MRA screen, Ohlins damper, reversed shift pattern, sorted suspension, braided lines, Michelin Pilot Power, all else stock 'coz it's fast enough!
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