Motor Work - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 26 Old 07-23-2007, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Motor Work

Ok trying this again hoping to get just straight forward answers here. I want to do some motor work done internally. What I am looking to have done.

1 Aftermarket Cam and timing.

2 pistons,listening to katoom I think on this and going with the thin head gasket but still would like feedback and results done with this or both of these mods

3. Not positive but possibly bore and/or Stroke kit.

4. A serious dyno shop in orange/la county california that doesn't tune the the PCIII to peak power at 220 degree's. Also looking to put in short stacks.

Has anyone done any or all of these mods on a 2005 10r what were the results? Also if anyone has a dyno sheet showing how piston/cam work effected your power curve and how the stacks effected your power curve.

0510R PCIII dyno tuned 520 X -1+2 sprockets. slip on and a few other Knick Knacks filter plugs emissions dyno tune. And 20,000 miles of learning on this one anyways.

Last edited by Kwaky; 07-23-2007 at 08:23 PM.
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post #2 of 26 Old 07-23-2007, 08:38 PM
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I have done 2 zx10 motors so far, one was a 3mm bore 3mm stroke (1137cc's) just recently spun a bearing cause of falicons work AGAIN.....that was a customers bike....

my bike is a 2mm bore with reliability in mind when it was built for just that. no dynojet numbers on it but projects into the 190's.

check out my site for more info on them but if i were you and wanted to go reliability stay with stock stroke and just a 2 or 3mm over bore, head work, lightened n balanced crank and some other goodies, throw a bottle on there for some more fun lol.
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post #3 of 26 Old 07-23-2007, 08:45 PM
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I would hold off on the short stacks. It's strange, but the OEM middles flow better at high RPM, on my bike anyway. -Dean

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post #4 of 26 Old 07-23-2007, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Hmm wow strange it seems the OEM stacks flow better on top and some of the mid. Doesn't seem to be much benefit there. I only thought a mild stroker for low to mid is there that much of a hinderance on reliability with a mild stroke? With a bore Cams and thin gasket what type of numbers do you think it will put to the ground? My goal is to run @ or around 175 to 180 rwhp. If I do bore and do slightly higher compression or thinner head gasket will I be around the 180 mark or will I need to do more?

0510R PCIII dyno tuned 520 X -1+2 sprockets. slip on and a few other Knick Knacks filter plugs emissions dyno tune. And 20,000 miles of learning on this one anyways.

Last edited by Kwaky; 07-23-2007 at 08:51 PM.
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post #5 of 26 Old 07-23-2007, 10:14 PM
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IMHO, save the money (and time) and skip the crank and go with the pistons, cam and head porting. That will get you 175-180 on pump gas and be reliable.
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post #6 of 26 Old 07-23-2007, 10:19 PM
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IMHO, save the money (and time) and skip the crank and go with the pistons, cam and head porting. That will get you 175-180 on pump gas and be reliable.

exactly!!! a 2mm kit, intake cam and a fancy smancy valve job and 180 is your daddy.

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post #7 of 26 Old 07-23-2007, 10:22 PM
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IMHO, save the money (and time) and skip the crank and go with the pistons, cam and head porting. That will get you 175-180 on pump gas and be reliable.
too much stroke and it will beat the bearings to death. Bore, head and cams should be over 180 on pump and over 190 on u4
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post #8 of 26 Old 07-23-2007, 10:25 PM
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You could always smack a bottle on that sucker to!
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post #9 of 26 Old 07-23-2007, 10:27 PM
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You could always smack a bottle on that sucker to!
don't forget the nipple............

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post #10 of 26 Old 07-23-2007, 11:10 PM
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Damn so with all that being said what cams, pistons, and bore kit are working out these days and yeilding the most horsepower?

and what's the average price looking like for a full build like this.
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