Istalling Race tech Gold compression and rebound valves - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-01-2011, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
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Istalling Race tech Gold compression and rebound valves

Ok so there arent any how to's on this so I thought I would post up, cant post in the how to section so mods do your thing please

Alright, first things first, tool list, these are a must, theres others but these are some that you may not have that you need. Also make sure you keep everything very clean, remove any foreign objects and debris. If you have a German Shepard like me this proves to be a bit more difficult!

Traxxion dynamics cartridge fork tool kit
Digital caliper
inch pound torque wrench, not the harbor freight one, you need to be exact

Ok, first thing is to disassemble the forks, Garth did a great how to on fork seal replacement so here is a link to that. Follow his steps then come back here.
https://www.zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=83764

First, drain out the old oil

2nd, raise your sword and shout "by the powers of greyskull" and compress the spring, or get a friend to help, its much easier and not as painful, trust me

Remove the fork cap and decompress the spring, remove the spriing.
Next unscrew the #8 allen bolt at the bottom of the fork, you may have to stop the inards from spinning, I did this with a long screwdriver

Also, its a pain to break that bolt loose so putting the allen in a vice works very well

Remove the cartridge from the fork tube

Now unscrew the compression valve out from the bottom of the cartridge and the rebound valve out from the top. I used a vice, heat and a pipe wrench, Im sure theres a better way but this worked very well for me

Close up of the stock compression valve

Close up of the stock rebound valve

Now both valves have the ends peened so you will have to file these off
Peened nut

Peening filed off

Now lets rebuild the compression valve. When you order the compression valves from Race Tech via 303 cycle(thanks again) it comes with an access code. Go onto race techs site and enter that code with your info into their valving size chart, there it will tell you what valve stack and restrictor stack you should choose, Measure out the valve stacking with the digital caliper, this is a critical step to get right but very easy, I bought this caliper for 10 bucks at harbor freight

Now lay out the valves in order of how they are going to go. Stock is on the left, race tech is on the right

Race tech will provide you with a chart so you dont get confused with where things go.
Now assemble the stack, locktight the nut and torque to exactly 30 in lbs, no more, no less

Now for the rebound valve, same as the compression, lay it out in order and reassemble according to the race tech chart. Stock is on the left, race tech on the right

Now assemble the valve and torque nut to 30 in lbs exactly, no more, no less

Remember to put the teflon ring on the rebound valve and the rubber o ring on the compression, blue lock tight the threads on both ends and put the cartridge back together

Now you are probably putting in new springs with these valves as well, this is a part that differs from rider to rider depending on size. If youre going with a lighter spring rate you may need to shim the spring, race tech will provide these shims. The chart race tech gives you tells you the new oil to use, the level it should be set at and even gives you suggested compression, rebound, static and sag settings. Even if you dont like their settings its a decent platform to work off of. With some patience and the right tools this is a job I think anyone can do. Just remember to clean everything very well!!!!

Now just reassemble and install!! And enjoy!!


Last edited by flthy1; 05-01-2011 at 01:27 PM.
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post #2 of 6 Old 05-01-2011, 03:11 AM
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pics would of been a huge help alot of people just cant learn from reading lol

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post #3 of 6 Old 05-01-2011, 03:13 AM Thread Starter
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pics would of been a huge help alot of people just cant learn from reading lol
I can see the pics just fine man

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post #4 of 6 Old 05-01-2011, 03:40 AM
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Excellent writeup. Thanks filthy! I did a gold valve and a similar write up on another forum recently on a rear shock. I am very pleased at the finished product. Well worth the $170 or so to improve your dampening IMO.

My only gripe with the Racetech stuff was that it could have been de-burred better. There were tiny, sharp burrs on the corners of machined features that I felt the need to remove. With that said, I am a picky ass machinist, so I may notice where others would not.
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-01-2011, 07:15 AM
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Sweet write up!! Now you can do mine! Rep sent

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post #6 of 6 Old 05-01-2011, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Excellent writeup. Thanks filthy! I did a gold valve and a similar write up on another forum recently on a rear shock. I am very pleased at the finished product. Well worth the $170 or so to improve your dampening IMO.

My only gripe with the Racetech stuff was that it could have been de-burred better. There were tiny, sharp burrs on the corners of machined features that I felt the need to remove. With that said, I am a picky ass machinist, so I may notice where others would not.
Thanks man! I havent had a chance to ride with them yet but its crazy the amount of adjustability it adds and you can see easily that every increment of adjustment makes a difference. Im pretty stoked to go ride

I actually didnt notice anything too bad with the new valves, I thought they were pretty well done, no sharp burrs at all. Maybe my eyes not as good as yours for finding that stuff though, but I am pretty picky LOL

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