how to start tuning susp on my own - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 08-28-2008, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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how to start tuning susp on my own

can some one run down suspension basics to me .....the person that owned my bike was about half my weight lol...and i dont know if he ever changed anything or not ....can someone tell me how to check if the settings are stock . and some basics on how to make adjustments and what they do.

thanks fellas....i rode for the 1st time in about 3wks and damn i missed it
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post #2 of 4 Old 08-28-2008, 10:56 PM
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Check the service manual for directions on how to adjust the suspension preload, compression and rebound. Basically it's just turning a screwdriver for the compression and rebound settings (clockwise = stiff, counterclockwise = softer)

For adjusting the rear preload, you need a special tool (hook wrench or spanner i think), so you may want to have a shop do it for your weight.
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post #3 of 4 Old 08-29-2008, 01:21 AM
 
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myself and 2 buddies actually did this today on our bikes.


Its actually alot easier to understand when youre doing it. Reading about it is half the battle..but thats the hardest part really.


The basic formula for preload is L1 - {(L3 + L2)/2}= Sag

L1 = Pick up the bike on its kick stand taking the front wheel off the floor thus taking any load off the front forks. You or your buddy measure the distance from the lip on the fork seal, to the top of the casting for your axle (where the shiney piston meets the part that your calipers bolt to). This measurement is known as your static sag. basically the full amount of travel your shock has. This is L1

L2 (need 2 extra people here) = Get yourself in riding position on the bike. Kick stand up. Have someone hold your bike steady and straight up from behind. Have the 2nd helper up front with you...at the same time both You and that person should push down with all your weight on the front of the bike. Do not pull up or bounce. Just push down and thats it. Once again measure the front. Lip of fork seal, down to the casting. This is L2.

L3 (again, need 2 extra people here) = Get yourself in riding position on the bike. Kick stand up. Have someone hold your bike steady and straight up from behind. Have the 2nd helper up front with you....at the same time both You and that person should pull up with all your weight. Pull up on the bike and so should that person. Once again measure the front. Lip of fork seal, down to the casting. This is L3.


Do the math (easier to do, and typically done in MM). General rule of thumb is...for Track sag between 25mm-30mm. For the street sag should be between 30mm-35mm.

The simplest way I understand preload is...the shock performs best when it doesnt bottom out under hard compression or top out under harsh rebound. Somewhere along the middle is where the shock should perform its best. Of course with adjustments from the rebound and compression screws.

Preload is the measurement that will take you the longest to set. The rest you can either eyeball it or get an ass feel of it. The front forks should compress without bottoming out...come back up within a second and not do a quick bounce down again. If it does, your REBOUND is too soft.


Easy way to remember what screws do what?.....

X pattern.
Top fronts do rebound...bottom rear does rebound.
Bottom fronts do compression......top rear does compression



Theres a lot more info you can spend hours reading. My suggestion is get the basics in your head and go and do it. Its easier once youre hands on. Good luck.


http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0402_susp/index.html
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post #4 of 4 Old 08-29-2008, 01:50 AM
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how much do you weigh?
When i first had my bike, i could never get my sag right....
so a lot of people advised for me to get a stiffer spring..
you might to.. so add that to your list to check

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