HOW TO: shortr,gut,ceramic coat, A&R baffle stock exhaust
here is my take on how i made my exhaust a straight through. couldnt see paying a boat load for aftermarket exhaust when the stock setup is easy to work with and already pretty light.
1: take off the muffler by undoing the bolts that attach to the mid pipe. undo the bolt at the passenger peg. i measured how much i wanted to take off the pipe. mine is a little over 14" long and took some masking tape and wrapped it around the muffler to make a straight line. then take a hacksaw or dremel tool and just cut through the aluminum can. pretty easy to cut.
2: the end of the can and the inner guts will come apart with a little prying. there is a small layer of insulation wrapped around the inner mesh and baffles. now you can take the smaller aluminum piece of muffler off the end cap. the aluminum just folds over the end. use a razor knife to cut through the insulation and just pull it off. take off the end cap to expose the inner plate and outlet tip of pipe. you will need to save the outlet inner cap and the mid pipe connector with the threaded bolts. cut through the titanium mesh about a 1/2-3/4" to get the ends off. you will notice how heavy the innards are when they come out. i had already gutted my catalytic convertor and drilled holes through the stock baffles for a while but wanted a more straight through muffler. plus gutted stock muffler was very loud.
3: i contacted A&R mufflers through ebay and they said they tried to make a kit for the stock 04-05 10r but that it would need to be welded and they believed it would be too diffucult for people to do. i told them i have another idea and they sent me a baffle and some insulation for $50. the inner pipe was a little large to fit even with the bottom of the muffler opening. i cut eight 1/2" slits in the end of the baffle and folded the edges in to make the baffle taper to a cone. this allowed the pipe to fit in the bottom hole and keep it from vibrating or slipping around in the muffler. i didnt get pictures of this since i was in a hurry to get it back together and was excited it was getting finished.
4: take the end connectors for the end cap and the muffler bolts and cut those from the full length of titanium sleeve of the stock pipe. now there will be weld spots that held both on. drill through those and pull the ends off. the holes will probably need to be filed or ground with a dremel tool to clean them of any burs. now drop the muffler bold end into the muffler and slide the new baffle down in to the hole to measure how much needs to be cut off. A&R sent me a 21" piece of baffle tube. you have to cut the exit end at an angle to fit in the end cap tip. cut it a little longer than the muffler so you can leave some room for corrections.
5: the inner end cap is going to be a pain in the butt. in order to get that inner pipe out of the inner end cap i drilled several holes around where the inner pipe comes through the cap and then using a hammer and screwdriver or chisel to break through the spots between the holes. someone may have a better way of getting out that pipe or you could just leave it in there and cut the inner portion off since those welds that hold it to the stock baffles is easier to break. now that i think about it it would have been easier to cut the inner side off and leave a little sticking out for the new baffle to fit over and that would make it a straight cut on the exit end and would keep the new baffle in place. on my inner end cap i cut the pipe out and ground the cuttout as big as i could get it. it wasnt pretty but it worked.
6: i slipped the new baffle through the hole in the inner cap and with it in place on the muffler and tested the angle with the outer end cap in place. i wanted it a shade long so when i screwed down the end cap it would squeeze the new baffle down and keep it from rattling.
I sent my exhaust to performancecoatingsplus.com in joplin missouri and they did a good job of coating the muffler, midpipe, and headers inside and out with ceramic coating. took about two weeks to ship them down, paint them and ship them back. they just sent a bill with the exhaust and were happy with me mailing a check back. Rick is an easy guy to work with and they have several colors to chose from flat and polished. pipes fit back together without any sanding and the finish looks good.
7: with the new baffle cut close enough it was time to wrap the insulation over it and tape it down with some masking tape. put the end cap with the bolts down in the muffler. the piece of insulation was pretty big so i folded one end over itself. then slide the baffle and insulation into the muffler and slide the inner end cap on. now i drilled some small holes that fit my pop rivets through the aluminum can and the inner cap to attach them together. do one at a time and rivet as you go to keep the holes from getting out of alignment. i did about 8-10 rivets since the ones i use were pretty small and long to make it through the aluminum can and the gap of the inner cap.
8: now with the inner cap installed you can add the end cap and the muffler is done.
i tried uploading my pictures but the manage attachments was giving me an error and the files could not be uploaded. dont know if there is a problem with the forum but i will keep trying so that you can see what i am trying to describe.
did notice that the new exhaust does have more pull through the rpm range. the pipe is quieter with the new baffle but still has a good sound. i havent done an aftermarket air filter yet and still have the exhaust valve connected. i will do the air filter when i get a power commander and get it properly mapped.
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MODS: Homemade 1/5 throttle, -1+2 gearing, R1 Master Cyl, Galfer S/B Brake lines, 954 Handlebars, GSXR stock damper, ZX14 mirrors, gutted/shortened/ceramic coated stock exhaust, Hotbodies D/B, Ramair tube brackets, Speedohealer, flush front signals, Fake Sato rearsets, FZ1 Brembo rear master cylinder, Fender eliminated...