Well, I was going to post this in the "how to", but understandably, I'm still too much of a noob for clearance. This may not have even been worthy considering how easy it really is compared to some other's instructional posts. On to the meat.
I looked out the door at my bike and thought, screw it, let's gut that slip on and see what it sounds like. While fairly impulsive and with almost no logical reason, I did at least remember to take pictures, and even busted out a decibel meter for before and afters.
Time required: 15min.
Tools required: 4mm&6mm Allen (long shaft t-handle preferred) & adjustable wrench.
DISCLAIMER: THIS IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK. I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGED PARTS, PISSED OFF WIVES/NEIGHBORS, OR NOISE VIOLATIONS. I MAKE NO CLAIMS OF LEGALITY. THIS WAS FOR MY ENTERTAINMENT.
All sound pressure levels assumed to be measured in dB, at a distance of 1 yard from the source. Readings were taken 3 times and averaged for both before and after. Engine speed was "warmed up idle", as I lacked the planning and resources to duplicate engine load and speed on the road/dyno.
I removed my slip on assembly so I could sit at the kitchen table with it.
I located the single 4mm Allen bolt inside the tail end. It was slightly corroded, but better than I expected. It's also a little ways in, hence the need for longer Allen wrenches. Expect a little resistance.
Believe it or not, the physically challenging part is done. Now to wiggle the end cap free. It's slip fit into the baffle inside. I suspect having the can warm helped this.
The shell and deadener should slide free of the ported baffle tube with minimal resistance. This leaves the material inside the shell. This is the messy part. Mine was a bit fouled, probably running too rich in most Rs from the previous owner's PC3 tuning, and my decibel testing at idle.
And finally, pull out the wad of nastiness. Mine had a little bit of double sided tape inside. Again, minimal effort yielded favorable results.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Actually I F'in hate it when manuals say that, it rarely goes that easily. This time however, it really was that easy. Slip the rubber grommets back on the ends of the shell. Slide the shell on to the ported baffle end. Slip the end cap back on, and line up the bolt. Make sure to use just a dab of thead lock if you worry about things vibrating apart. Also make sure that the shell is firmly held in place between the end caps. The bolt may feel snug, but it could just be corrosion from being inside the exhaust.
Before dB: Avg. peak of 91dB
After dB: Avg. peak of 103dB
Significant change in pitch was noted. A slight blip of the throttle yielded a much more aggressive sound.
Unfortunately, by the time you've read this, you could have already done your own. I hope you've enjoyed the read as much as I enjoyed doing it.