Im highly interested upgrading my 2016ZX10R headlights to HIDs. Ive spoken to a few people about the process and everyone seems to be against it. It seems to effect the electricals. Ive seen it done so I know its possible. Should this be done by a custom type shop? Or dealership? I kinda got the impression the place I take it to get serviced just doesn't wanna do it. Any thoughts?:dontknow::dontknow:
Just swap your oem to led H7 globes!cheap and easier brighter fix the halogen oem globes!the base of the led H7 are longer due to the cooling fan so will have to adjust the plastic oem cover to fit as it should!find a socket around the same diameter as the led base!heat the socket up then it will burn a nice hole where the globe will protrude!use some wet and dry to clean up the melted edges and it will look like it's pretty!dont outlay on a holesaw
The LED lights are directional and the reflector housing isn't designed for them so the cut-off pattern won't match and you'll be throwing light in places that it shouldn't be. The aren't brighter than HID, they just look that way to the naked eye because of the pattern they produce. Plus, the heatsink on the back won't fit in there without opening up the plastic cover which exposes the housing to debris and water and can't be sealed. The only advantage to LED is they last longer. But HID matches closer to the beam pattern the reflector was designed for and is brighter than halogen if you get the 5000k pure white color. But stay away from LED in this particular housing. My $0.02:hello:
Respect your views Sky but for someone that rides during daylight ours living in Australia the low beam are on all the time!the difference in led over stock halogen is a much better brighter light that will attract other road users attention!
These are the HIDs I want put in. Doesn't seem like anyone is to hyped to install them tho. This is way beyond my skill set here. Has anyone else dealt with the KT HID Projector Headlights Angel/Demon Eye?? :heyyou::heyyou:
All you have to do is find the low and the high beam feed wire going to each and tie it in to the factory Loom and you will still have high and low beam on the switch
I did this mod to my 16. This was a nightmare to say the least. I do not blame a shop for not wanting to do it. The main issue for me was find place to put all the boxes and wiring it takes to operate these. To be honest, most of mine is zip tied into every nook and cranny I could find. There is little room to put it on the front of the bike and the stock wires restrict you from under seat mounting ( not that there is any room there either). There is quiet a bit of hardware behind the fairings already. This is a real labor of love. I probably worked on mine like 40 hours. A lot of trail and error. There is a ground issue with trying to find something good to ground to. I wound up going all the way to the battery because of everything being aluminum. I am afraid to try to pull my fairings again lol , remembering how hard it was getting it all to fit. That is the bad... The good is .. these lights are super bright. I ride a lot back and forth to work in the dark and these are the best lights I have ever used. I have owned a few different bikes mainly different ninjas. ..Also these lights look bad ass in the new bikes... Lastly, this is my first post on here been reading it for a while , so Hello All. If you are down by the Tail of the Dragon give me a yell, its about 10 minutes from my house.
I did this mod to my 16. This was a nightmare to say the least. I do not blame a shop for not wanting to do it. The main issue for me was find place to put all the boxes and wiring it takes to operate these. To be honest, most of mine is zip tied into every nook and cranny I could find. There is little room to put it on the front of the bike and the stock wires restrict you from under seat mounting ( not that there is any room there either). There is quiet a bit of hardware behind the fairings already. This is a real labor of love. I probably worked on mine like 40 hours. A lot of trail and error. There is a ground issue with trying to find something good to ground to. I wound up going all the way to the battery because of everything being aluminum. I am afraid to try to pull my fairings again lol , remembering how hard it was getting it all to fit. That is the bad... The good is .. these lights are super bright. I ride a lot back and forth to work in the dark and these are the best lights I have ever used. I have owned a few different bikes mainly different ninjas. ..Also these lights look bad ass in the new bikes... Lastly, this is my first post on here been reading it for a while , so Hello All. If you are down by the Tail of the Dragon give me a yell, its about 10 minutes from my house.
I just converted mine this last weekend too, and now im having electrical issues. My ESD warning light comes on while riding and the starter cutoff switch is not working properly. These are both issues i have not had until i finished installing my HID's. But im in the same boat as you songwriter about all the wires. Im scared to take the fairings off again lol.
I used to sell these by the ton. actually still have a few boxes left. there is nothing to be scared about the wires. In fact, you can and should cut them down to where you want them/need them. Also used to do the installs myself as well and for a premium cost would make it all neat. Its definitely not for the faint of heart. My personal issue and why it would always take me longer than some is that I make sure to do it super neat and clean. I can't do it otherwise.
Have a great guy if anyone needs projectors or install.
The ones I have I can let go cheap. The best thing about the projectors is that they are directional and have a cutoff for the beams, where you're not blinding anyone and get best light output where its needed in front of you.
We'll be working on buddy's ZX10R next right after we finished installing the railings and truck headache rack on his current Ram project. I'll shoot you a PM if you consider the projector for his headlight. We put a projector headlight on his truck and he likes it.
I just picked these up from ddm tuning today down in Huntington Beach. The projector is all of 2 inch diameter and the tiny led that works perfect with it is stupid bright. The projector is designed for the led instead of for an hid, has high low solenoid for cut off so that you can have both bulbs always on instead of getting the one eye look that has got me everything from people telling me I have a burnt out headlight to being pulled over by a rookie chp officer for having a burnt out headlight. That was fun, FML. anyhow, I currently have 33 watt LED self ballasted lights in my bike but they do throw light in less than an ideal pattern. I didn't have to cut the dust caps, just heated them with a heat gun and used the base of the led to stretch the cap back enough to make it fit without needing to cut. the 33 watt bulbs are supposed to be 3400 lumens each and they probably are. while testing them I melted the paint on my gen 1 with the diode within about 3 seconds. The new units are supposed to be 50 watts so still save 5 watts per bulb vs the OEM lamps and these claim 10k lumen which I know is absolutely bullshit but they are retarded bright. All in was less than 200 so if you are looking for bright bulbs these bulbs are great and don't even need any sort of dust caps mod they are that small the projector is a whole nother project that you can fuck up really easily if you leave the assembly in the over even a min too long
just a comparison of the new lights vs the old led headlights I was running, will try and get a shot of the light output difference as well but these are on my seat next to my Scorpio srx950 2 way remote
Ok a member messaged me with some questions and I would prefer to answer them in the forum for others to see as well. The questions were does the setup I got come in a kit specific to my bike? Do I still need to mod the headlight assembly or just plug and play? Something along the lines of is it worth it and is there instructions....So answers...
No the set is not bike specific, I just went into ddm, asked for the brightest led headlight they offered and the smallest projector it would fit in. I ended up with a 50 watts per lamp led set and 2 inch hi/low projectors, retention rings etc for a tad under 200. I know that is a touch expensive especially if you just buy some cheap stuff off Amazon but these things put out some serious light and the projector is designed for the two chip style of led. They rigged up the setup on the bench right there in front of me and it was nothing short of amazing. They also did it side by side to a 55 watt hid in a 2.5 inch projector to show me how much brighter and cleaner the light output was with my chosen setup. If someone wanted these and for some reason was unable to figure out how to order directly from ddm, I could get them and ship them but I'm not sure why when it would be cheaper directly. I'm not covering shipping costs. Yes the headlight will need to be removed and placed in the oven at the lowest setting, I find it best to leave the oven door cracked open about an inch or two while doing this to prevent overheating, also, after about 5 min, peek in every min till 7 min. Wear thick leather gloves, place on an cookie sheet to avoid baking grooves into the assembly etc. butter knifes or large flat head screwdrivers work well. a heat gun on the lowest heat setting and high air flow are a must as well as working quickly. Pull the assembly out of the over at 7 min, attempt to separate the two half's, if it starts to separate keep working without over forcing it. when it stops wanting to do so, place back in the oven for another 2 to 3 min. remove and try again. Unless you don't pay close attention or use too much force or heat everything will go well. When the two halves are separated, one last 3 min oven cycle helps to aid in removal of the remaining sealant, it needs to be done or getting it all back together properly is extremely difficult and you risk a leak if it gets wet. I will do this in next day or two but it's pretty hot and I don't want to run my oven when so hot outside. It is 100% worth the effort to do the projector mod, if running anything other than halogen lamps, the light throw will not be correct and can blind drivers or reduce view distance or other negative outcome. Projectors are a must for hid and led upgrades. Hid suck cause of the start up current. the ballast etc. also, a heat gun and shaving cream can (the skinny type) work great if you take your time, to stretch the dust caps of the headlight to allow the led ballast and fan portion to fit. no cutting needed
phone is almost dead so can't use flash but here is the one with the dust cover on. I used a heat gun when I installed the larger set of LED lights to stretch the cover. didn't want a hole in it. like I said I'll get better pics in next day or two
I'm surprised how you fit it over, but like you said... you stretched the covers. how's the heat with those closed up? I thought those LEDs run real hot.
IDK, guess time will tell. I did remove the little wire path plug at the top of both sides of the headlight and made sure it had a hole through it. It comes with a plastic cap over it and a rubber plug underneath the plastic deal. I left them open cause 1) it allows heat to vent even if only a tiny amount, 2) they have little tube type paths so it would be nearly impossible for water to get inside via that route especially since the tube points out but is still inside of a recessed area. Any water that got even close would just go into the recess but never make it into the assembly.
Worst case scenario, some moisture does get inside so I drill a tiny drain hole in the lowest part of the assembly and blow dried air in through the top until there is no more sign of water or condensation (yes I know still water) and then use a rubber plug or a tiny dab of silicone to plug the drain hole. Doubt that will ever happen as I used to run my gen 1 without dust covers all the time for years and would ride in the rain. my old led bulbs were water resistant to all hell so that was not an issue and I never once got moisture inside the actual assembly.
side note, to stretch the caps/covers I used some motul chain lube as the pushing device, a small nozzle on my portable reflow heat gun and fairly low heat setting I think around 200c. I took my sweet time and did it while the cap was propped up between a couple stacks of cinder blocks. I heated the outside first until the plastic looked like it was wet and glossy and just barely started to say a tiny bit, I then flipped the thing over and let it hang between the blocks, waited about 15 or 20 seconds and started heating the inside until the plastic just barley got glossy, you have to keep the heat moving in a circular motion and need to do so rather quickly. don't heat until it sags when heating the inside or it will likley end up stretching till it tears. After the cap gets a slight glossy wet look remove the heat, wait about 15 seconds and carefully but quickly center the part you will use to stretch and very gently apply a small amount of pressure. don't stretch it all at once. it's better to use the heat gun to slowly heat the outside again after a 1/4 inch stretch. for the second heat cycle I started with the inside then heated the outside while applying a small amount of pressure with my chain lube can. I got the correct amount of stretch the second time in under 1 min. Just take your time with the heat and try not to melt it to the point it wants to collapse or sag cause it will turn into a blob of shit
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